MOUNT EVEREST

Hawera Star, Volume XLVIII, 27 June 1924, Page 9

MOUNT EVEREST

EXTRA EDITION.

THE PINAL ASSAULT. SUPERHUMAN DIFFICULTIES. BY CABLE—PRESS ASSOCIATION—COPYRIGHT Received June 27, 10.5 a.m. LONDON, June 26. Lieut.-Colonel E. F. Norton, of the Everest Exiiedition, in a despatch dated June 8, from a camp at a height of 21,000 feet east of Rongbuk Glacier, relates the story of the almost superhuman difficulties of the final assault, especially the demeanour of the native porters, as enough to daunt the hardest spirits. It had been already decided to modify the original plans owing to the moral and physical exhaustion of the native porters. It was anticipated few would have been available to assist the climbers above 23,000 feet, and that the climbers would discard oxygen for at least two in the attempts to reach the summit, sleeping two nights on the mountain above 23,000 feet. The weather was then almost perfect, and the peak stood out clear cut in the azure sky. The symptoms of the monsoon had disappeared, but the explorers knew that a monsoon might at any moment burst with its full force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by the name of tigers, were assembled, and the stage set for the final attempts, the weather continuing perfect. General Mallory Bruce and nine - tigers established a camp on the north col on June 1, and began theascent of the great north ridge on the 2nd in order to establish camp number five, but suddenly a hitter northwest wind nearly blew the porters off their feet, and progress was one long fight again the wind and altitude, sometimes on rock, sometimes on snow, at an angle of 45 degrees. It was hoped to establish camp five on a sheltered side of the ridge at 25,300 feet. At 25,000 feet the endurance of the porters began to flag. Only four reached the camp, and the remaining five dropped their burdens. General Bruce and one tiger were forced to make several trips to bring up stores. White men cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity, and it- is scarcely to bf wondered at that General Bruce’s heart was strained, though happily only temporarily. Thus camp five was finally established. Three picked porters were retained, and the remainder were sent hack. Obviously everything depended upon the morale and the physical condition of these three. Received June 27, 10.20 a.m. LONDON. June 26. Bruce’s persuasive powers failed to arouse their enthusiasm for the morrow’s task. The wind, seemed to have killed their spirits. On the morrow it was intended to make an earlv start, hut while preparing breakfast they obtained the most unwelcome news that only one porter was fit to proceed. The other two professed to he sick and totally unable to carrv their loads. It u-as fairly evident that the three porters had shot their bolt, so after a brief consultation it was decided to return to camp four and consider plans for a further attempt. despatch covers the movements of the expedition just prior to Mallorv and Irvine starting on their final attempt for the summit.—Times.