1950 New Look Is Completely Feminine

Grey River Argus, 4 October 1949, Page 8

1950 New Look Is Completely Feminine

(By Barbara Stevenson, Reuter's Correspondent in Faris.) The 1950 New Look is completely feminine —from head to toe. With plenty of choice of style features, all women, whether short, medium or tall, will this winter be wearing shorter skirts but the exact length, ranging from thirteen inches off the ground, will depend not upon height but upon the shapliness of the leg which the skirt is to conceal —or reveal — and the occasion for which the dress is intended. Effective and very becoming to the right figure are this year’s big collars, deep cuffs and all-enveloping coats. Molyneux, Balmain, Jean Desses, Maggy Rouf and Schiaparelli all feature pyramid, high slanting and big danton collars, but they are for the medium thin, tall or really big figure. The short and thin, short and plump or just plain short should beware of them. Anyone less than 5 feet 4 inches should steer clear of them altogether, for they will only produce a lost-in-a-tent look. Women of medium height and big bust can wear one of these collars provided that it tapers down in front. Paris designers are concentrating on backs, another fashion adaptable to all figures. Accent on the back either reveals or conceals, and should be accepted or avoided according to good and bad points about, the figure. Baldmain’s low back decollete is enhanced with flower-filled scoops which arc a fitting adornment for lovely bare shoulders. On the other hand, Dior’s lew scooped drapes with over-fitting necklines in contrasting material are a boon to sharp, angular or jutting shoulder bones. Bloused back effects are popular this year and can be adapted to suit any figure. For those who are extra tall or thin, the bloused effect is brought over the waist, while for the short figure, it can taper into the waist. Lucky in-betweens can choose whichever takes their fancy. But if you are buying a bloused-back effect on a dress, buy one which is bloused over a slim sheath or moulded waist, for it will hold its shape longer and is more comfortable to wear. Paquin and Piquet both feature bloused effects*over moulded lines. The new dropped waistline is, quite frankly, seldom complimentary to any figure. Carven and Marcel Rochas are both featuring a lowered waist line but with belts or darts above to accentuate the natural waist as well and thus prevent this fashion from falling into the straight-waisted 1920 look. Medium to wide hips, however, would be wise to avoid this style, no matter how slightly the lower waist is emphasised. The new disturbed, or uneven, hemline calls for a word of warning to those who are unfortunate enough to possess large ankles, pipe-stem legs, or calves that bulge. If you want to use the word “disturbed” in your new wardrobe and your mirror says “no”, try it disturbed at the side, but never up in front with a back frame accentuating your bad points.

Fabric combinations are a boon to poor figures with only one rule to follow—use the dull fabric to conceal bad points and the shiny to reveal good points. Moires will pu ton pounds and dull crepes or fine wools will take off inches. Jersey will drape to conceal bad points or mould to reveal good ones.

Velvets are a luxurious “must” this season, and are available in a variety of textures suitable for everyone; but those who are plump should avoid shimmering softy types of velvet and any pile fabric cut on the bias.

The theme of- the new silhouette is slender and more feminine than in previous seasons, with only a whisper heard in favour of the lowered waistline. The majority of the Paris dressmakers still respect the natural figure.

Shoulders, still natural, are treated to give added width without padding —tucks running up to the shoulder, collars running over the shoulder, sleeves and cuffs running as high as the shoulder, the latter generally starting at the elbow. The head shape is small basically, but can tower upwards for height or add wings for width. Hair is styled to wear round the clock, short and soft with jewelled combs and pins added in the evening. Artificial curls and braids are not being used this season.

Shoes are more covered up for daytime and revealing for night time. Hose, again, is a matter of choice — but it must be chosen with care.

Sheer and much paler than last season is smart for thin legs; but sheer and dusty dark is the order of the day for large legs, while daringly pastelshaded hose is suitable only for those with really beautiful legs.

Make-up is pinker and lighter and more subtly applied. A natural look is the rule for this winter and everyone should have two shades of powder, the darker being used to tone down bad features.