OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXXIII, Issue 3711, 21 December 1912, Page 8

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

WHY THE DEMAND FOR WOOL IS GOOD [FROM OUE OWN CORRESPONDENT] BRADFORD, Nov. 10. There is nothing connected with the textile trade that is commanding > much attention as raw wol oi-e.f Whichever way one turns the tact is strongly in evidence that the >aw nm terial is wanted in a m •'« than r i u ary way, the dem' d bed" I.ecu *•> a degree. In this •* .iject u.t ]M titfi-.j in saying that abnormal conditions obtain, and, there is evidence of the largely increased needs of the manufacturing world in the correspondingly increased demand for the raw material. There is no aspect of the trade that has forced itself home so pointedly during the past month as the gradually diminishing stocks, and although we have not heard of there being any “squeeze” in manufacturing circles, there is a pronounced shortage of merino wool, which looks like being emphasised by a further advance of values at the forthcoming series of London sales. These facts suggest the- enquiry as to whether the various producing countries of the world are growing sufficient to meet all requirements, and as far as one can see no surplus is being produced, and if anything the tendency is the other way. No doubt pastoralists in the chief producing countries would gladly keep more sheep if they could rely upon being favored with good climatic conditions, but, they can neither make it rain nor compel grass to grow, and we all know that grass and water play a most important part in feeding sheep and growing a fleece of wool. However, we have to take things as they stand, and make the best of them.’ THE WORLD’S CALL FOR WOOL FABRICS.

There is no feature connected with the wool trade that has impressed itself so strongly upon the minds of those who keep an open eye upon the tendency and developments of the textile world, as the universal call for wool-made fabrics. Old cloth manufacturers in their reminiscent moods often speak of the big quantity of cheap woollens which were made in Leeds, Batley, Dewsbury and Huddersfield, and which were usually shipped to foreign countries 15 to 25 years ago. The writer well remembers the time when immense quantities of cotton warp, meltons, serges, vicunas, cheap woollen prints, beavers, and such like fabrics were shipped to the Near East, India, China, and other countries. No doubt in the aggregate some fairly big quantities of similar fabrics are being shipped to-day, but it is an astounding fact that more wool is being used today in West Riding centres among low class makers than has ever been the case in the history of the West Riding trade. Very few cloths are being made to-day where raw wool itself is not a primary consideration in determining the price per yard. The reader may be surprised to know that thousands of pieces are turned out weekly in the West Riding that do not contain a single ounce of pure raw wool, being entirely composed of cotton, mungo, or shoddy. But even here the price of wool is largely influencing the market for woollen rags out of which mungo and shoddy are made and the record supplies of wool which the manufacturing world has been called upon to lift during the past seven to eight years, have all been shifted easily because of an augmented demand for woollen and worsted fabrics containing a proportion of pure wool. It has been well remarked in Bradford during the past few months that there is a demand for fabrics of an altogether better order than we have ever seen before, due entirely to the increased spending power of the people. When do we see a working man shabbily dressed on a Sunday? A person with patched trousers is a sight we seldom see among the rank and file of the community, this meaning a larger consumption of wool. Those in close touch with the manufacturing world know the many avenues of consumption into which the raw material is going, all of which are of modern date. All alo,ng the line there has been a steady absorption of both merinos and crossbreds, and as far as one can see there is likely to be no slackened call.

LIGHT WEIGHT GOODS IN DEMAND. There is no aspect of the textile trade which has bo impressed itself upon manufacturers during’ the past few weeks as the lighter goods which are being taken by the multitude. I refer to the weight per yard of the manufactured article. The general wearing public have need to revise their ideas regarding what constitutes a piece of sound wearing fabric. The file are completely ignorant of the, principles of manufacture, and think that if a piece handles thick and "boardy” it is a sure sign of strength, durability and wearing capacity. Such an idea i altogether contrary to actual facts. We admit that a thick handling fabric can be made entirely of wool, and will wear like "pin wire," but as a rule these thick handling cloths are made from the commonest materials, simply because manufacturers arc able to produce thick cloths out of the lowest classes of ramigo and shoddy. A piece of thin well made “all wool’’ fabric will look far more respectable and wear much longer than a thick mungo cloth. .Every practical man knows that in producing a fine serge, coating, or rainproof the manufacturer must have some good wool in order to spin the length or smallness of yarn out of which to produce tnese light but well made fabrics. Now it is impossible to spin the commonest classes of mungo or shoddy into small yarns, hence it can only go in the majority of oases into cheap shoddy fabrics. During the past few years there has boon a wonderful development in the call for light but well made fabrics, and in making them large Quantities of merino wools are being consumed. The Eastern and Oriental countries are today calling for immense Quantities of "tropical” cloths. Continental and home manufacturers know the extent of the trade which is better done in these light all-wool fabrics, both for undenrwear and outer garments; and it is in the manufacture of these where immense quantities of fine wool are being used.

NEW AVENUES FOR CROSSBREDS. However satisfactory may Tie the eonsumption of fine wool, and however many now channels may open out into which large quantities go, we have also to record the fact that crossbreds are moving out of, hand and being absorbed j in a variety of fabrics which were tin- j known a few years ago. Take for instance the big weights of woollen goods ] in the shape .of Cheviot tweeds, motor- . car clothing requirements, and the large quantity of hosiery and knitted goods which are being worn compared with a fdw years ago. There has been a marvellous expansion during the past two years in the wearing of jerseys, ladies' knitted jackets, and the like, all of which are very popular. The hosiery trades to-day are large and extensive, ■there being a wonderful expansion both here in England, on the Continent. America and even in Norway and Sweden. So long as winter sports are popular these hosiery knitted fabrics, which arc all produced out of crossbred yarns will bo in demand, and if—as 1 contend—consumption has ktrfit apace with the production of merino wools, the same can equally bo said in regard to crossbreds. To sum up the situation, it can be tru'y said that the whole industry show 0 signs of expansion, and the increased standard of living is a matter for in-. 1

■ tensd satisfaction among wool growers .and consumers alike. { MERINOS TENDING UPWARDS, i The market this week shows evidence ! of increased strength, attributable solej ly to the increased demand for the raw I material. Which ever way we turn we , find that there i s a pronounced, short- * age of wool, and commission wool comb* 1 ers in Bradford haye a lot of standing it machinery, due entirely to the absence of wool supplies. The result is that there is a distinct hardening tendency , in all fine classes of wool and tops, and to-day the majority of topmakers are asking id more than they did a week ago. As a matter of fact, the whole trade seems at last to have relinquished its present expectations of cheaper wool when big quantities began to be catalogued weekly at Australian selling ' prices, and with there being no sign of an ease, spinners and manufacturers 1 are more disposed to anticipate the fu- < ture, the result being that considerable 1 orders for tops and yarns have been I placed on new year account. It may 1 be possible to buy here and there an average 64’s top at 27»d for February, 1 March and April delivery but most are I firm at 28d, and are not prepared to accept a fraction less. Some of the best importers have gone a step further and are now quoting 28*d but this price has not yet been made. This may be taken to mean that they are prepared to go to the higher figure at no distant date, and one need not be surprised to find this an actual selling price in a short I time. A nice steady business continues ' to be done for spot delivery, and here also 28d is a more regular pride than it has been. Crossbreds are if anything a sha.de firmer than they have been, the opening of the Christchurch sale on Thursday having the effect of causing topmakers to assume a very firm attitude, 14? d being to-day the lowest price ; for a decent 40’s prepared top, many wanting 15d.