MAINLY FOR WOMEN

Greymouth Evening Star, 21 February 1940, Page 9

MAINLY FOR WOMEN

ITEMS OF INTEREST

NEW WARTIME NOTIONS.

PATRIOTISM WITH ECONOMY.

Paris fashion designers have taken up the slogan of “War days mean war ways” in all seriousness, and patriotism and economy are very distinguishable features of the latest styles. The complete understanding of the Allies is shown in new fashions that combine 1' reach chic with British charm. The* Army, Navy, and Air Force contribute to the themes that influence milady’s smart dressing and clothes are cut with the fine features of military tailoring while colours are of regimental brilliance such as one sees in present day uniforms and 1 in the colourful costumes of the circus and musical comedies.

The bright, courageous colours of Admiralty blue, Atlantic green, and Guardsmen rgd will give zip and sparkle to the Autumn style-scape. Silhouettes as dashing and roguishly beguiling with swinging skirts, a fraction longer than those of last year, and tightly-fitted bodices with tiny hand-span waists and wildly exaggerated shoulders. Hats rise high in classical stove-pipe, postillion, kepi, and chechia shapes. Those like the top-hats of Victorian men are provocatively daring in their new feminine reincarnation. The small, rolled brims look well, tipped above pretty piquant features. High kepis have- the forward jutting visor brim and are oftentimes plumed with a bottle-brush of osprey or ostrich in the traditional Hussar fashion. Tall fur chechias show a distinctly military flavouring with looped trimmings of silk cord and tassels. Foreign Legion hats, just, peaked caps with fabric scarves and snoods covering the back hair are other tricky headpieces designed to tempt us to a bolder, more dashing way of dress.

Black is still the favourite choice of the well-dressed woman who dwells in the city. But this year it looks different because, for day-time year even the severest black garments are dolled up with ornate and colourful braid trimmings. A black boucle coat may have passementerie frogs zig-zagging all across the bosom.

And' if there is no other colour on a costume at all, the hat will make amends and / will be the crowning achievement in dizzy shade of red, yellow, emerald, or clear blu,e. A plain black hat becomes an achievement of scintillation when it it loaded with an Admiral’s ransom of gold passementerie braid. A tiny felt pill-box becomes enormously important when it is decked with flanges of crimson coq feathers at either side.

Even furs have gone patriotic. Inexpensively priced furs made national economy no hardship because cuddly white lambskin, or brightly-dyed moleskin, are so very becoming. One white lambskin coat looks as British as the Union Jack with a reef flannel lining and lapels and cuffs of blue felt. More expensive furs are spaced out over fabric to go further in creating a luxurious appearance yet averting extravagance. Velvet jackets have the entire fronts covered with silver fox so that from the front they look like an all fur wrap. Furriers in Neto Zealand will welcome these schemes, for with restrictions on incoming pelts, any fashion that lends itself to the combining of fur with, some other medium is a godsend to the trade.

WOMEN PEERS.

ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES

One dukedom, five earldoms, one viscountcy, and 15 baronies are held by women. Eighteen women are peeresses of the United Kingdom, and four hold Scottish titles. These women peers, because of their high rank, the highest in the land, are debarred from many of the privileges enjoyed by women of lesser rak.

For instance, politics are absolutely forbidden to them. Peers have no vote, but if they are males they enjoy the privilege of sitting in the House of Lords. Not so, however, the women peers. Efforts have been made to obtain for them equality with male peers, but the portals of the Lords still remain firmly closed. A peer’s wife may contest an election for the House of Commons, and some are members, but a peeress in her own right may not do so. In marriage, too, there is a certain disadvantage. She cannot raise her husband to her rank, though when a peer marries his wife becomes a peeress. But the husband of a woman peer remains plain “mister” or whatever his own rank may be, as in the case of the Countess of Seafield and Mr Derek Studley-Herbert, though in the old days the husband used to succeed to the title in lieu of the wife. At State functions the husband is allowed to escort his peeress-wife. Because she is a peer of the realm she cannot sponsor presentations at Court. She is a peer of the realm, and peers cannot make presentations. If there is someone she wishes to present, someone, generally a relative, must make the. presentation. Only one peeress has married a peer of equal rank. Baroness Beaumont, who is the wife of Baron Howard of Glossop. Being of equal rank, they are known by their own titles. They have eight children, who take their father’s surname. The eldest son is heir to both baronies. If a title is conferred by writ of summons in the United Kingdom a female can inherit the title without it falling into abeyance. There is no abeyance in the Scottish peerage, and the eldest daughter, if there is no son, succeeds to the title. SOLDIERS’ SOCKS. THICKENED HEEL FLAP.

Here is a practical hint for women who are knitting sox for His Majesty’s Forces, states the London “Daily Telegraph.” The thickened heel is simplicity itself to do, but is greatly appreciated on account of increased wearing qualities and additional comfort.

When the knitter comes to the heel flap, instead of knitting one row plain and one row purl, on the plain side slip the first stitch, knit 1 and continue slip 1, knit 1 to the end of the row; there should be an even number of stitches on the needle. Purl the alternate rows in the usual way, remembering always to slip the first stitch purlwise. This will give a chain edge, which makes for easy and even picking up of stitches after the heel has been turned. Only the flap is thickened. This improvement can be incorporated whatever pattern is used.

WATERLOO ELM.

THE QUEEN’S CHOICE.

Timber which was regarded as “only fit for firewood” four years ago, has been chosen by the Queen tor panelling her private salon in the new L.M.S. royal train. It is known as Waterloo Elm, the hardy Canadian Rock Elm, which for nearly a hundred years stood in the bed of the Thames, propping up old Waterloo Bridge. When demolition contractors offered the timber for sale there were no bids. Merchants said: “It’s no use —except to burn.” Then Mr W. Howard, a London dealer, walked down to the bridge from his Westminster office one morning. f

He looked at the heavy wooden piles the workmen were bringing to the surface, thought they might possibly be turned to . some use, and decided to take a chanceHe stated his price—not a high one. It was accepted immediately. Mr Howard undertook to buy all the wood under Waterloo Bridge, and that meant also buying large quantities of English beech and English elm.

The English wood is still at Mr Howard’s warehouse, waiting to be burned.

But the Waterloo Elm proved a bargain, despite the fact that large pieces of it had to be thrown away. When cleaned and polished it revealed a delicate, silky grey hue of varying shades—an effect that dyers of wood have been unable to copy.

“This unusual and attractive colouring was caused by the action of lime and chalk from the river on the props,” Mr Hansom, one of Mr Howard’s managers, told a reporter. “It has made, the wood very popular in decorative work.”

Mr Howard has now sold a large quantity of this “firewood” to the Canard Line for panelling new linens. It has been used in staterooms in the Queen Elizabe'h. He has sold another consignment to the London, Midland and Scottish Railway for their luxury ouches, and wealthy people are now inquiring about the wood for libraries and ballrooms.

Cigarette holders and ornaments made from the wood are also fetching high prices.

MILLIONAIRE’S BATH.

PROGRESS SINCE CLEOPATRA

Cleopatra, the Egyptian queen, used to bathe in the milk of asses. Ancient recorders have left a note that the milk was warm and steaming, rich with the fragrance of roses and lilies.

In fashionable London during the 18th century private bathrooms were still unknown, although thbsa who could afford' the luxury visited the spas or watering places for medical treatment. Underclothing was seldom changed, but perfumery was used lavishly. Hair which occupied hours in the dressing, remained uncombed for weeks. These were the days when the bath as a means of cleanliness was unknown.

During the 18ih century “scratchers” were the vogue. These were long sticks, with tiny ivory hands attached to the ends. According to “Civilite,” a writer of the period, it was not good form for a guest to scratch himself in' company nor to return meat to the serving dish. Until well into the middle of the 19th century the bath was practically unknown. About the year 1850 bathing was made illegal in Boston. U.S.A., except by the consent of a physician. ENGLISHMAN’S LEAD. In England, however, Lord John Russell, who was Prime Minister, did much to popularise baths amongst the aristocracy by inviting his male friends to see him in the bath. The tub was filled with water heated by gas, which was only then coming into general use. The increasing popularity of gas, incidentally, helped in the somewhat slow process of popularising the bath. In due course, the hip bath came into fashion, and was carried into the kitchen on Saturday nights for most of the family to have a bath.

To-day every house or flat, however small, lias its bathroom, even though the bedroom, living room, and kitchen are combined in one.

A millionaire’s bathroom in Honolulu was recently - the subject of much American newspaper space. It is made of glass, and is sunk into the emerald sea so that the millionaire’s family may enjoy their bath, and at the same time, admire the tropic fish which peer at them from the depths of the sea.