MAINLY FOR WOMEN

Greymouth Evening Star, 19 December 1936, Page 9

MAINLY FOR WOMEN

ITEMS OF INTEREST

/ “MONEY A CURSE.” BARBARA HUTTON COMPLAINS. When Lance Haugwitz-Reventlow, nine-months-old sou of the richest girl in the world, crawls to reach his stocking on Christmas morning, only two people will be watching hiniThere will be little, if any, entertaining in tho London house, of Count and Couutess (Barbara Hutton) IJaug-witz-Re ven flow this Yuletido. The Woolworth heiress is not happy in London- She has always been lonely. Her mother died when she was eight. She was a lonely child. Now married, and with a charming son, she is still lonely. “Why don’t people like me?” is her continuous question. “Surely it can’t be because 1 have a fortune. That is not my fault. But I know that I am disliked. Such unli ind things wouldn’t be written and said about me if I were popular. “1 had hoped to be happy in England, where no one pays any attention to me, but actually I am very unhappy. My money is a curse. It makes me suspicious of making friends with people. I cau never be sure that it is me they want to know or it they are after my fortune. What am I to do?” . Although the countess is homesick for her own countiy, it is unlike!) that she will return. She is terrified that in the United States, land of racketeers and gangsters, her baby may be kidnapped. She feels too, that America has not given her a square deal. Last year her name was omitted from the New York Social Register. She felt that keenly. Now the Countess is wondering whether the fortune which has brought her nothing but unhappines is going to hurt her infant sou.

SITTING GRACEFULLY. VITAL TO APPEARANCE. "In these days when wqmen must stand up for themselves we have forgotten to learn the art of sitting gracefully,” says a beauty expert in an overseas paper. “That is a pity, for we spend much thought, on our diet, much money on our dentist, much time on the c-are of our complexions, yet we undo all these efforts at beauty by lack of poise. ‘Hunched up’ is not a pretty expression, but it describes very accurately the position. I mean. “There are the women, too, and Jicy are many, who must perforce swing one leg over the other, irrespective of whether there is room to do so or not. There are those who sit uncomfortably" perched on the extreme edge of the seat, those who huddle lopsided in a corner, those who curl one leg snakeliko round the* ether, and those who sit down heavily and spread out like a sack. "Look at the well-cut clothes ruined by sitting badly—skirts and coats that bulge, backs that are wrinkled, linings that peep from under hems, and seams that strain under rounded ..boulders! Then along conies the girl who has learned the art of easy grace, head held high and shoulders buck. She does not slouch or twist her limbs —her clothes neither bulge nor sag. This, then, is the lesson that, (•very woman who wishes to look her best should learn; that a graceful carriage and perfect posture are vital to an attractive appearance.” COATS TAKE NEW LINES. (By Hon. Mrs C. W. Forester). Fashion has not stepped much further back than the last century in reviving coat silhouettes. Many coat lines of the past are inclined to a.certain clumsiness opposed to modern : tandards. The dolman of the early and middle part of the Victorian era was not at all perfect, but it did possess quaint dignity and grace. This applies also to the pelisse and polonaise of a later date. Afterwards many variations of the tunic and the sac-like coats and cutaway jackets came. The latter, again fur-Xl’immed, was a favoured silhouette in the “ ‘nineties.” As the Edwardian era developed, a more graceful jacket and also fur coats of full length and more shapely style made their appearance. Then the vogue of the shorter fitting coats and tunics, still somewhat hampered by. the number of undergarments then worn, and also superfluity of fabric in the- actual garment, began.

Only in recent years has the sectional eut-and-filleted process in fur been understood. Even in cloth, -it was only the masterhand that achieved slimness above and the full swinging’ lino in the skirt part. This is now managed in all models. The somewhat severe- long coal in taffeta or velvet for day or night is reminiscent of Edwardian elegance, but its former primness has vanished. The same applies to the many delightful little coats of hip-length in tweed or wool. Sometimes a model is so plain that it depends on its buttons for distinction. Often it is collarless and limp. In direct contrast is the model squared of shoulder and braided in military mode. A longer packet of broadcloth is rounded offtfrom a normal waist and hip-line, .and bordered with narrow astrakhan.

FOUNDATIONS BEFORE FITTINGS There is no more important purchase in a woman’s wardrobe than her corset. For upon it depends every ounce of chic she gets out of the clothes she wears it with. But, more than that, it should be her first purchase. It is a shame to try on new clothes over a foundation that is shortly to be replaced by a new one which will make a difference perhaps of inches in measurements, if not. shape. First have your corset fitted for the type of frock you havo in mind—only then are you ready to go a-hunting for your new clothes. If anything, this applies ever more strongly to the fitting of your evening clothes. Mero there are special questions of decollete and shoulder straps to bo thought, of, as well au general fit and' line. If you wear your new evening foundation for your fittings, these things can be adjusted from the start, you will get the ultimate in fit, and there will be no last minute alarms.

HATS AND WRAPS. CELLOPHANE FOR BEACHES. Like giant blue-bottles, the new Cellophane wraps popular overseas will add translucent colour to New Zealand beaches this summer. They are specially prepared to aid painless sun-baking, and to produce an. even tan. More general will be the wraps of printed linen or terry towelling, and tho latter is being produced in finer weaves than formerly. Tailored capes, with hoods attached, are among the most comfortable and easilydonned beach wraps. One famous designer says that blue and white are the only colours to be considered by the sea, or on the sea, but brick red is being introduced with good effect. Flay suits, although popular, have not entirely ousted beach pyjamas, and suits of lightweight wool, linen, and strong cottons are designed with shirt tops, and have distinguishing cummerbunds in vivid shades. A brickcoloured flannel jacket, designed with cape sleeve, and a peplum, with a royal blue flannel trouser skirt, is another useful outfit. Hats are a necessary accompaniment to beach raiment, and they are huge in dimension, whether in cellophane or stitched linen, decorated with starfish or other nautical designs. The beach hat is really like a small umbrella, and almost as bright as the huge canvas sunshades that dot our beaches during the summer.

. Glare glasses to match the suit should pot be overlooked, nor a variety of towels in the brightest possible colours, back rests, foot rests, inflated rubber surf boards, and the improbable, but amusing, rubber animals which keep the younger members of the family afloat. "PERMED” HAIR. PROFESSOR'S DISSERTATION. What happens to hail’ when permanently waved; or set? The answer was given by Professor W. T. Astbury, when talking to doctors from more than 20 countries at the International Congress of Physical Medicine in London recently, states an exchange. In a paper entitled “New Ideas from X-ray Analysis on the Molecular Structure Properties of the Proteins.” the professor said: “Hair in water will stretch to half its original length. That is what happens when women have their hair curled and set or permanently waved. This causes a molecular breakdown in the linkage of the hair.”

The professor, in an explanation subsequently, said that there was no doubt that any kind of permanent waving or steam setting was harmful to the hair, but the harm was not serious unless the hair-setting process was overdone.

"If too much steam or alkaline agents are applied the hair will lose its gloss. It. will become dry-looking and fuzzy,” added the professor. “This is not. only due to the molecular breakdown in the hair. The scales on the surface of the hair are also injured. These scales act as a kind of protective macintosh.” But Professor Astbury is, not pessimistic about the future effects of modern treatment of women’s hair. “I can understand that it. is worth while aesthetically to women to have their hair done,” he said. “The danger is when improper treatment is given.” FLARE AND SWING. With the shorter coats, skirts are permitted to flare and swing. They may be tight and narrow, almost tubelike, with all fullness taken to the front or to the back, according to the stylo selected. One fur coat of fashion may show the swinging silhouette somewhat after the raglan swagger idea. The newest three-quarter coats in furs like Persian lamb or seal are cut straight. This line is slimming. They show pockets and a small collar. Collars are definitely smarter when cut straight and standing away a little in the front, or else neatly turned over. Some finish with a tiny fur cravat, or bow.

The large roll-back collar of last year is only seen in voluminous long wraps of seal or mink, or on the plain cloth coat.

A number of the new full-length models show a fitted waistline. These generally fasten close up to the throat and flare out into the swinging silhouette below the waist. This is a vepy popular, though n.ot-easy-to-wcar style. There are other styles, two particularly which I must mention. One is a long yet perfectly plain coat, beautifully fitted, either of the rougher furs, like caracul or ocelot, or in mink, lambs wool or camel’s hair. With a leather belt such models can take on a semi-sporting air, and will prove an excellent choice for travel or country pursuits. In velvet or brocades certain types can look charming in these partially masculine styles for evening wear. There is an ultra-feminine model c? cottly silver fox, an exquisite affair cut full length,' the fox being arranged in spiral form on to a fine velvet foundation. The younger women havo also seized on : foxes to make up with the plainest of short sac straight coats.