EVEREST WINS THIS TIME

Greymouth Evening Star, 16 June 1936, Page 7

EVEREST WINS THIS TIME

“FURTHER EFFORT USELESS”

NEW ROUTE FOUND [by CABLE —PRESS ASSN. —COPYRIGHT.] (Recd. June 16, 2.30 p.m.) LONDON, June 15. A copyright message from Ruttledge, Camp One, on Monday, says: The expedition must now depart. Deep snow everywhere is rendering further effort useless, although Smythe and Wyn Harris discovered a route which I am convinced will be of great value on a future occasion. Unhappily, it has been made in a season in which Everest has not given us a single chance. Seven climbers ascending the icefall on the west side of North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already then, there was evidence of a monsoon so severe, and snow so deep that Everest is unclimbable this.year.

Smythe and' Wyn Harris- yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull, and took a light camp to a point previously attained, jus-t out of reach of the avalanches pouring off North Col. The rush of air from one nearly blew down their tent during the night.

This morning they obtained a clear view of the slopes to the crest and, although the snow was too dangerous to make the ascent, they are satisfied that, given certain conditions, a safe and more direct route could be made on this side. Smith-Windham and I, with porters, went up half-way the icefall and formed a similar opinion. COMMITTEE’S CONGRATULATIONS. Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Everest Committee, commenting on the telegram, says the. committee’s regret will be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest of Everest has become a national enterprise, on which all hearts are set. Tlie expedition’s splendid composition and equipment justified every hope so far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and heavy snowfall preventing the re-occupation of North Col, which was originally occupied with unusual ease a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions. No previous expedition ever so suffered. /

The committee is telegraphing to Ruttledge, with the lamentable' il]-fortune, and recognising that no leadership or mountaineering skill could’* have averted the result congratulating members on emerging from the critical experiences without casualty.