THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 23527, 16 March 1940, Page 6

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK

Our contributor, • well-known gardener, wi|l bo glad to'answer questions, which must be received not later than Thursday of each week. (Advertisements for this column mutt be handed in to the office before S a.m. en Thursday.)

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS

“ J.M.” (Musselburgh).—You may sow the seed mentioned as soon as possible It is best to sow it in boxes and then prick off when large enough to handle. Notes on the time to sow and the cultivation appeared in February.

“ J.A.M.” (Musselburgh). Herbaceous plants suitable for your purpose are helianthus (perennial sunflowers), Russell lupins, companulas, gypsoplilia (Bristol Fairy), lielenmms, perennial phlox, Oriental poppy, rudbeckia, scabious caucasica, thalectrum, tritomas, and pentstemons. (2) There is no need to lift turf when planting crocus bulbs. The bulbs can be planted by making holes with a dipper. Before placing in bulbs, a little fine soil should be worked in the holes for the bulbs to rest on. Pinepesto powder mixed with the soil will prevent the pests from destroying them. (3) Maples, quercus (scarlet oak), rhus (succedano), and prunus pissardii. “ South End.”—The tuber submitted is a good sample of a variety named Arran Victory. It is a late main crop kind, has a purple skin, and white flesh, and is immune from disease. The haulm is strong. It is’a good cropper with a fine eating quality, and is well worth cultivating. “ W.N.” (Burnside). —It is far too late to attempt to grow tobacco at this stage. The seed of tobacco must be sown in the early spring. Watch for notes on its cultivation at a later date.

“ Mosgicl.”—Your flowering currant is affected with thrip. A spraying with Pinepestol liquid would destroy them.

DRY WALL PLANTS

Tho Question is often asked: How can I cover a dry wall? Such walls can certainly be improved by planting on the top or even between the stones suitable plants which in a very short time will not only cover the face of the stones, but also give k display which will be pleasing to the eye. Such a display can be seen covering the very high wall, surrounding the. garden of Mrs Lee Smith, at Ross Corner, Anderson’s Bay. There has been a glorious display all the summer on this wall. One part is planted with gazanias, bearing large orange flowers. At the present time tho second crop Deflowers is beginning to show, and. these plants will flower right into- the winter months. ‘ These plants enjoy a dry position. . . •

The next property is occupied by Mr M. C. Henderson, one of our city councillors, Tho high walls are covered with small flowering misenbryanthemum. These plants also enjoy d)heir positions, and the colouring has been delightful for many months and has been enjoyed by the public who travel by the trams to and from the district every day. Not only do these plants thrive under such > conditions, but if planted on the top into an ordinary depth of soil they will quickly make themselves at home. They all thrive with a minimum of moisture, and their habit is to search for tho little they got. -

These plants can also be planted when building up a dry wall if a good layer of turf and soil is placed between the stones. The plants can be placed into positions as the' construction is being carried But care must he exercised in making the sou firm around the roots. Then they will quickly take hold of the surrounding soil, and very little labour will be required when once the plants get a start.

Tho following will make good companions for the aboveAlyssum saxatile, Campanula portenschlagiana (blue), Helianthemum venustum (scarlet), Saponaria ocymoides. (rose pink), .Saxifragis, Sempervivum obscurum, Achillea rupestns (white). Aubrietia cilicica (blue), and Erysimum rupestre (yellow). These plants should be planted before the hard weather arrives or left over till the early spring, when conditions would be better for the young plants to take hold. It is essential that the-soil be m a moist condition when planting.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Early carrots can still be sown, also lettuce and onions (Brown Spanish and Giant Rocca) for transplanting at a later date. One of the best vegetables for winter use is the spinach. ine ■prickly and perpetual New Zealand native are the best for winter cutting. Cabbages (Flower of Spring and Ear y Market) should also be sown for early spring cutting. Early long-pod beans and early crop peas should also be sown into prepared trenches, as advised m earlier notes, A few lines of ear y white Milan turnips, if sown now, w-ould be ready for pulling before the hard weather arrives. These turnips are very sweet, and make an excellent change for the table.

Those who have small plots of potatoes should lift and store the tubers, as disease has been noticed in several gardens, and is just beginning to show m the haulms. If lifted at once and dried off before storing a great many tubers would be saved, but if left in the ground with the moist conditions which are prevailing many of the tubers are found to become affected. The surface between all growing crops should be'kept open at this stage, and any pests which are noticed should be destroyed at once. Shallots and early gown onions should be lifted and thoroughly ripened off before they are taken into the store. Onions when strung will certainly keep longer than when placed on shelves or on the floor of the store. It is most important to thoroughly dry off all bulbs before taking them inside for winter storage. ,

All vacant plots which require manure for next season’s crops should be put down with mustard »r lupins. The latter makes the best manure and creates a greater amount of humus when rotted. r.S.P.

HOW TO STRIKE CUTTINGS

PRIMARY RULES TO OBSERVE The autumn is always a good time to increase one’s stock of plants by way of cuttings. While all plants will not root in this way, there are many that will, and among them are those which give wonderful returns for the little trouble that has to be taken. Hydrangeas, geraniums, and carnations are typical examples, but in taking cuttings there are one or two primary rules to observe.

The most important of these is that the roots come from the node or “ knuckle ” in the stem. Consequently there should be a “ knuckle ” at the end of each cutting—that is, the end inserted in soil. One should not on this account make cuttings unduly long. A lengthy cutting is less likely to become established than a short one. The length, of course, varies with the type of plant that is being propagated; but for softwooded cuttings like geraniums, dahlias, etc., a length or 3in to 4in is sufficient.

When cuttings are inserted, it must be remembered that they have no roots from which to derive moisture and nourishment. It is essential, therefore, to remove the lowest leaves and so reduce loss of water transpired.

Having prepared the cuttings, the next thing is to choose a suitable compost and environment for them. Pots and pans are the best receptacles in which to insert cuttings for, being porous, air can pass freely into them and reach the roots All receptacles must be cleaned before being used. A good layer of drainage material is essential. The compost used for cuttings varied according to individual experiences. Some people prefer to use pure sand; but this quickly dries out and once the cuttings are rooted they must be potted up directly. A good compost consists of equal parts leaf mould and loam, together with sufficient silver sand to make the mixture porous. Before inserting the cuttings, a layer of sand can be put on the soil surface; this will fall into the holes made for the cuttings and prevent thein rotting at the base. Cuttings are best inserted round the sides of the receptacles as this allows the free access to air. The soil must bo made firm round the base of the cuttings. Once the cuttings have been inserted they should be given a light watering, preferably through a rosed can, to set the soil round the. roots. After this, water should be given only when the soil is dry. Too much water causes them to rot, specially soft-wooded ones. The inserted cuttings will probably wilt at first,, out will soon recover. To minimize, the (-risk of -too much' transpiring from the leaves, th©.receptacles containing the cuttings lean be transferred to a propagating case or glass-covered box The glass should be turned every day and the cuttings should be shaded from direct sunlight. If any leaves decay, they must be removed at once otherwise the whole batch of cuttings will become infested. As soon as the cuttings are rooted, evidenced by new growth, they should be potted up separately. Many of the hard-wooded cuttings can be inserted in the open, but those of most softwooded plants are best inserted in a frame.

Cuttings from young sappy growth are unsuitable. They will soon wilt and usually die off. Semi-ripe or ripe growth is best. Cuttings of this type are older, stronger and do not contain an excess of sap as is present in very young growth. ’ Moreover, these ripened cuttings soon form a callus or corky issue at their cut ends from which roots emerge quickly.

BIG AND LITTLE LETTUCES

No salad crop is so important as lettuces, but the difficulty with them is not so much the growing of good crops as choice of the most satisfactory varieties. Everyone has his own taste in this respect. Some like a lettuce of enormous size, weighing perhaps a pound or two, whilst others delight in the small solid hearts. ■ Here are a few varieties which will grow on all soils, light or heavy, and which have succeeded in , dry and wet seasons. All are crisp and tender when well grown, with a sweet, nutty flavour. Continuity is the finest lettuce in cultivation. Even in the hottest season it does not run to seed, but keeps firm and crisp for a long time;,one sowing is equal to three of other kinds. Borough Wonder is an attractive shade of silvery green and makes good-size hearts, uniform and compact. Tom Thumb is perhaps the earliest outdoor kind. It makes solid, compact hearts, but is quite small, so it can be planted close, and is ideal for a very small garden. Of the Cos varieties Giant White is splendid for all purposes, forming large, close hearts and standing a long time before running to seed. It is self-fold-ing, so also is Gem Cos, a very early kind, dwarf and compact and a rich, deep green. ‘ Popular Gardening,’ London.

NEW APPLES WORTH PLANTING

So slowly doea a new apple come into general cultivation that it remains little known for many years after it was raised; therefore, it is still new to amateur gardeners long after it was first exhibited (says ‘ Popular Gardening,’London). Of the dessert apples which may still bo classed as new, none is better than Laxton’s Superb, a fruit of excellent flavour. Lord Lambourne is the name, of another reliable apple. Three others of Laxton’s new apples, Epicure, Exquisite, and Fortune, are now being planted extensively and arc to be recommended. i Other new dessert apples which have done well in trials are George Carpenter, Woolbrook Pippin, and St. Cecilia. Of the new cooking apples, some of outstanding excellence are Crawley Beauty, Arthur Turner, Monarch, and Sowman’s Seedling. Crawley Beauty is remarkable in being one of the latest, 1 if not the very last, apple to blossom, and for that reason its flowers are likely to escape damage by spring frosts. ■

THE JAPANESE MAPLES

The Japanese maples (acersj valuable hardy shrubs, attractive at all seasons. During spring, when tho leaves are unfoldiugj they provide a variety of delicate tints, and again in l ' autumn when they change to shade* of red or gold. Some kinds hav* coloured bark which is most oraamen* tal in winter when the trees are leaf*, less.

The acers vary in height from dwarf shrubs suitable for the rockery to tall growing trees. The most popular, however, are those of medium dimension* which are suitable for small gardens* Acer japonicum laciniatum is a slowgrowing kind with deeply-lobed leave* which assume a rich ruby-red colouring in autumn. Another similar in size i* A. palmatum atropurpureum, which ha* palmate leaves of bronze-crimson. For its variegated foliage ace?' neguhdo albovariegatum should be planted. The leaves are a delicate green, and are prettily marked with' silver edgings. It can be grown either as a bush or standard.

Japanese maples are easily grown is any ordinary garden soil. Very heavy, or light soils are improved by the addition of leafmould. Although they are quite hardy, it is advisable to plant them in sheltered places.

TRANSPLANTING LEEKS

Leeks are a very useful winter and early spring vegetable, very hardy and not liable to the attack of either insect or fungoid pests. Though it is necessary to form trenches similar to celery to produce the long white show! specimens, very good stems can be ohtained with ordinary cultivation. They are greedy plants, and the position they Occupy should be deeply cultivated and liberally manured with farmyard . manure, or failing it, compost heap, and blood and bone. (Break up all lumps making the surface reasonably fine, and then draw drills about four inches deep and 12in apart. Prepare the plants by lifting them carefully, trimming off the ends of the roots and also the ends of ' the leaves to reduce loss of moisture. With <■

a blunt dibber make boles about Gin deep and 9in apart, and into each hole drop a plant. Do not push in the soil but give a good watering, and in this way sufficient soil will bes washed into the hole to cover the roots. The plant should eventually fill the hole with its white stem, and to increase the length of the. blanched part the plants are earthed up later on. Leeks require plenty of water at all times, and several applications-vof -liquid, manura" made from fowl or cow manure, op by an ounce of sulphate of v ammonia in two gallons of water, will ■ assist growth.