ALPINISTS IN CAMP

Evening Star, Issue 23499, 13 February 1940, Page 12

ALPINISTS IN CAMP

Invasion of the Malukituki * IN SIR JAMES HECTOR’S FOOTSTEPS Extensive Climbing Carried Out Early in 1863 a party of three led by Dr (later Sir James) Hector set out from Lake Wanaka to prospect the possibilities of a route to the West Coast. They crossed the divide and penetrated as far as the Arawata, but despite having sighted the sea at Jackson’s Bay they were forced to return. Well-nigh exhausted by lack of food and exposure, they returned to Wanaka to .find that their work was overshadowed by the discovery of the Haast Pass. But they were the first' seriously to explore the beautiful Matukituki Valley, a valley which has since played a not unimportant part in the history of New Zealand mountaineering. Here came Major Bernard Head in 1 9 1 0 to make the first ascent of Mount Aspiring, to be followed by many other parties with this peak as their goal; here lay the road - to Stargazer and the other virgin peaks of the Haast Range, and to the head waters-of the Arawata and Waipara Rivers.

Ami it "'as hero, last Christinas, that tlie New Zealand Alpine Club held its third ami largest climbing camp. The club membership covers the whole of New Zealand, and includes many overseas climbers as well. Representatives were present in strength from Auckland to Invercargill, the North Island

enough to allow several climbs to bo made, and on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday there was a tremendous burst of climbing by all parties. New Year’s Day marked the official end of the camp, and rain fell again to speed the departing climbers as they set out for home.

contingent being most gratifying, and Australia provided a party of two. The idea of the camp was first mooted by the committee of the Otago section of tho club early in 1939, and an offer to organise such a camp was made to the club committee. This offer was swiftly accepted. rre ; pa rations began in May and proceeded steadily until December, when all that remained was to prepare the actual camp site. This was chosen at the side of the club hut at Cascade Crock, which served as a convenient nucleus fur tho camp. The members of the advance party left Dunedin on December 14 and the time was spent, among .other things, iu pitching numerous tents and in erecting a fireplace for the camp cook and a shelter for his stores. These preparations were scarcely completed when the first arrival appeared on Saturday, the 23rd.

SURVEY OF THE CLIMBING. This is not the place for a complete list of tho ascents made during the camp, but a brief survey will indicate tho extent or tho climbing done. It must bo remembered that as far as tho attainment of the object for which the camp was l,iehl is concerned, tho ascent of an easy peak by a party of beginners was of far more importance than a difficult climb by an experienced party. Almost every peak flanking tho west branch of tho Matukituki was climbed. The second ascent of Rob Roy was made by a party of seven. Several attempts were made on Avalanche,. but owing to the bad conditions and so much snow on tbe rocks, it was not until the week after the camp that any party was successful. JoflTe and Bevan were both climbed from the Bonar Glacier, the latter also by a new route from the head- of the valley. Aspiring was in good condition by the end of tho week, and three parties completed the ascent. Of all the peaks climbed, this was the only one on which the beginners wore not taken. Hector’s Col, at the head of the valley, commanding a view down the valley, was climbed by more than one party. Across the valley, Mount Barlf received considerable attention, and three successful ascents were made. Plnhket and Islington Domes and Mount Liverpool were traversed, and an ascent of Islington Dome was /made by a new route direct from the valley. One energetic party returning to the cam)) from tho Dart Valley climbed Plunket Dome so early that the sun had not risen when they started the descent. A listed was climbed but once, but in contrast 1 to tin's Mount Tyndall proved a most popular training ground. The rumour that on one day MO people laid siege-to tliis peak and took turns in standing on tho summit has nut, however, been substantiated. A number of parties made the somewhat arduous crossing to tbe but at tbo junction of Snowy Creek and tbe Dart River, and a few climbs were made from that centre. Tbe most interesting wore tbe ascents of two unnamed! virgin peaks rising between the Whitburn and Snowball Glaciers. Mount Troas was also climbed from the Whitburn. This accounts for all the peaks actually climbed. A full record of tbe varied experiences of each party would fill volumes. EFFICIENT CONTROL. One most heartening feature was that there were no accidents of any kind, which bears tribute to tbe very careful thought that was given to their prevention. A camp register was kept in which tbe leader entered the names of bis party, their objective, and their time of return, and each party was warned that if it was 24 hours overdue

THE CAMP. Bv next (lay the majority of the climbers had arrived, not the last to arrive being that veteran climber, explorer. and foundation -member of the club, Mr A. P. Harper. No Alpine Club camp would be complete without “ A.P.H.", and the welcome he received was very sincere. By the evening almost 100 people were in camp, and the only matter not under complete control was the weather, which was very wet. Next day there was little improvement. but a few parties .set out to establish high camps so as to be ready for a climb when the weather cleared, i the remainder preparing to wait lor a favourable weather report before venturing forth. On Hint day, too, a start was made with the packing of I.GIKIIb of materials to the proposed but site on the ' ridge of Mount • French, to which site the advance party had cut a most excellent track direct from Pearl Plat. This hut will undoubtedly he, a great acquisition, but packing Bft lengths of ; corrugated iron up a steep track 3 to 4ft wide through hush ami sub-alpine scrub does not bear contemplation even after the event. Tuesday was again no day for climbing, and a few of the more pessimistic asked if it ever did stop raining in Western Otago and in the Matukitnki Valley in particular. In the afternoon arrived Mr G. E. Mannoring, another veteran of the mountains. He and Mr Harper are the only surviving foundation members of the chih. By a happy coincidence this day proved to_ be the anniversary of the day, when. 50 years ago. these two men made their only climb together. Old memories were recalled and admiration expressed for the intense enthusiasm and excellent organisation which lay behind the camp, i On Wednesday the weather cleared

a search party would be sent out. Day parties were likewise checked, and every evening the register was balanced to account for- every person. By the allocation of a leader to every expedition and careful selection of climbs with reference to the strength of the party, it was demonstrated that mountaineering properly controlled! need have fewer mishaps than motoring or surf bathing. Although the majority of the climbers left the valley on New Year’s Day, a number remained for a further week’s climbing, and experienced exceptionally fine weather. Some remained in tho Matukituki and made the first successful ascents for the season of Avalanche, others crossed to the Dart, where Edward and! Maoriri were climbed; in the Rees tho East Peak of Earns! aw fell on one day to three parties, and the more difficult West Peak was also nearly climbed. But, most interesting of all, Messrs J. H. Christie and A. Shannon, of Wellington, following tho seventy-seven-year-ohl route of Sir James Hector, completed at long last the crossing to the West Coast at Jackson Bay. On the first day they crossed the Matukituki Saddle about half a mile west of Hector’s Col and camped that night near tho snout of the Bonar Glacier. Tile route followed would normally present' no difficulty to anyone versed in rock, snow, and snowgrass climbing, but Hector’s route, owing to the absence of snow and ice, which was evidently present when ho crossed, would now be impracticable. Mr Christie, who visited the locality seven years ago, noted the terminal face of the Bonar Glacier has retreated considerably in that time. IN THE ARAWATA REGION.

Two dayfe were spent following down tho Waipara River, heavy work being involved in pushing through tho bush where rapids in the river precluded travel along its banks. Interesting views were obtained of glaciers which appeared to project over the shoulders of the mountains, and of a waterfall which seemed to come from nowhere. The third day was taken up by the crossing of the range between the Waipara and the Arawata. This course was followed to avoid the difficult gorge through which the Waipara is said to flow before joining the Arawata. The views from the top of the range were of great interest and covered the headwaters of the Waipara and Arawata, and also the lower portion of the Arawata Valley. A further two days were spent travelling down the Arawata, much time being taken up travelling through virgin bush where the river hugged the bank too closely. The river itself was too large to be safely-fordable on foot. Then came assistance that Hector could never have expected. The site of the bridge, where the new road being constructed between the Haast and Jackson’s Bay will cross the Arawata, was reached, and from there a lorry whisked the weary travellers along the new road over tho remaining eight miles to Jackson’s Bay in less time than they would have taken to struggle through eight chains of some of the bush that had previously been encountered. The crossing was accomplished, but there remained a feeling or admiration for the hardy explorer's who three-quar-ters of a century before attempted and almost completed- the same journey. While the country itself has changed but little, the modern party was well equipped, whereas the early party was evidently considerably handicapped through meagre and inadequate equipment. Their accomplishment was thus all the more to be admired. THE LIGHTER SIDE. Much could be written of the camp without mention of the, climbing. Friendships ripen nowhere more readily than in the hills, and when 100 people with one absorbing interest in common are brought together not a few friendships are made which might well prove to be lifelong. Nor will the lighter side of the camp life .be quickly forgotten. Even in the absence of conclusive evidence there can bo little doubt as to who put salt in tho coffee and mice into certain sleeping bags. Mr Harper may have successfully ascended Hector’s Col, hut he could not find a breach in the defences of that inveterate practical joker, Mr Jack Aspihall, of Mount Aspiring Station, who cooked so excellently for the camp. Ho opened his attack with a demand for > mustard, which to his surprise, he received; and when his subsequent requests first for an omelette, then fated - for strawberries and cream, and then beer were satisfactorily fulfilled he had to admit himself defeated. THE OBJECTS OF THE CAMP. When the club was formed in 1891 the promoters set forth several objects, the most important of which was “ To inculcate a knowledge of the general principles of alpine climbing amongst its members, associate members, and the general public.” It was with this end in view that official climbing camps have been arranged by the club. The present camp in the Matukituki is the third. The first was held by the Otago Section in the Rees Valley at the head of Lake Wakatipu, and the second by the Wellington Section in the Godley Valley. But in each case the object lias been the same—to give novices an opportunity to find their feet and to learn something of climbing. The club has no desire to popularise the sport by inducing people with no interest in the hills to take part In mountaineering, but there must be many in whom there is lying dormant a love for the hills. It is the club’s wish to give these people and those who have already discovered a genuine interest in the mountains an opportunity to start on the right lines and learn some ,of the principles of mountaincraft so that they may enter more speedily into the joys of mountaineering and, above all, learn to travel safely in the mountains.

If only a small percentage of those novices present at the camp continue climbing, lake an active interest in the' club, and in time become full members and hand on the fruits of their experience to others, then the camp will not nave neon n failure.