CRUSOE’S ISLAND

Evening Star, Issue 23038, 17 August 1938, Page 9

CRUSOE’S ISLAND

NO LONGER SOLITARY Solitude is no longer a specialty at “ Robinson’s Crusoe’s Island ”—otherwise Juan Fernandez —on the coast of Chile, for American and English tourists have begun to explore it, writes John W. Harrington, in the ‘ New York Times.’ There they wander on horseback over mountain trails, look in on the cave of the castaway of long ago, and climb to the lofty look-out from which he watched for some snip of rescue. In a secluded nook they gaze upon a tablet, dedicated to Alexander Selkirk, the Scottish sailor on whose experience Daniel Defoe was said to have based his novel. Visits to Juan Fernandez Islands—there are two more besides Mas-a-Tierra, the largest and the scene of the marooned Selkirk’s stay—are an outgrowth of cruising along the Chilean coast. Devotees of fishing have for several years been attracted to that area. Tourists now can make arrangements to visit Juan Fernandez at the Valparaiso office of the Grace Line, which at times sends special boats to the island. At intervals a stop is made there by vessels of the British Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Another way is to take passage on one of the fleet of lobster boats which make weekly trips to the islands from Valparaiso. This last method is “ roughing it,” for there are often high seas, and there are no luxurious cabin accommodations.

WEST OF VALPARAISO. The island is 380 miles almost due west of Valparaiso, and auxiliarypowered schooners of the lobster fleet make the round trip in four days if they are not delayed in taking on their crustacean cargoes. About 400 people are now living on the main island, mostly natives of Chile, the country to which the island belongs. There are also a few aged Breton fishermen. The main industry is catching lobsters. The lobsters are unusually large, and have an excellent flavour. Brought back alive, they reach their destination in prime condition. Some are used by the restaurants and hotels of Valparaiso, but most of them go to Argentina. As yet Juan Fernandez is far from being a popular resort, for no big hotels are there to provide lodging. Cruise parties live on the steamers which bring them, and as their stay is usually only about 24 hours the arrangement answers well. The fishermen have small but comfortable cottages, and occasionally take paying guests. Steamer day at Juan Fernandez is a red-letter one. The islanders turn out in gala attire to greet the visitors. They swarm down to the plaza near the landing. The larger boats of the lobster fleet always have surprises in the way of supplies. The staple food of the inhabitants, aside from the abundance of the sea, consists of chickens and eggs, goats, vegetables, and fruits, and when live food animals are brought from the mainland there is much rejoicing. “ THE LOOK-OUT.” One of the first objects the visitors wish to see on the island is one of the peaks rising 2,100 ft above the ocean. On it is a bronze plaque in memory of Selkirk, placed near “ The Look-out ” in 1868 by the officers of H.M.S. Topaze. Its inscription states that the mariner lived on the island in “ complete solitude ” for four years and four months. He. was landed from the galley Cinque Ports, 96 tons, 16 guns, in 1704, and taken off on February 12, 1709, by the privateer Duke. Accounts of his arrival differ, one being that after a quarrel with the captain of the galley Selkirk was put ashore at _ his own request with guns, ammunition, and stores. It was evidently his belief that he could signal some passing vessel to his rescue. Tradition has it that when Selkirk returned to England he became acquainted with Defoe, to whom he told his story arid gave manuscript notes, which were the basis of ‘ Robinson Crusoe,’ first published in 1719. Some delvers into literary history insist that a much earlier German book related experiences similar to those_ of Selkirk; others maintain that a Caribbean island was the actual locale of Crusoe’s exile. Be this as it may, the visitor is guided to many places on Juan Fernandez associated with Selkhk’s four years there. “ Robinson Crusoe's Cave,” for instance, is much like that described by Defoe. The island is made up largely of volcanic rock, soft enough to be easily worked. Crusoe, therefore, would have had no trouble enlarging the natural cavern with an axe; and this also lends credibility to the statement that part of the roof fell on him because ho had neglected to shore it up with timbers, as he did later. From “ The Look-out” one may see for many miles, just as described by Defoe. Many details, of course, were invented by the novelist, such as the presence of cannibal marauders and the rescue of Friday; but there remains a fabric of fact which allures all who delight in adventure and romance.