THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 22228, 4 January 1936, Page 17

THE GARDEN

Our contributor, a_ well-known gardener, will be glad to answer questions, which must be received not later than Thursday of each week. (Advertisements for this column must be handed in to the office before 2 p.m. an Thursday.)

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS “ Spinach.”—lf “ Spinach” will call at the ‘ Otago Daily Times ’ office jobbing department Mr J. Ritchie would bo pleased to let him have some seedlings of red spinach. “ J.\V.”—lf the rose border was well manured before planting the pansies these plants would be beneficial in conserving the moisture for the rose roots. The other matter re rustic work I will answer you later “ H.J.N.”—Capers can be used as a salad, sliced with vinegar like the tomato, or for making pickles, chutney, and for flavouring soups. Wait till they are on the turn before gathering. “ H.A.”—The leaf and flower enclosed is ■ Lilium Washingtonianum. Many thanks for information forwarded by “J.R.” and “A.L.W.” re red spinach. Many persons suffering from arthritis use it freely. • SEASONABLE WORK THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Peas can still be sown for late crops. Early Crop and Greenfeast are the best for this work. Runner beans may be sown in boxes and then transplanted into pi’epared trenches. This will save time. , , , , Continue Ho plant celery and leeks, also lettuce, radish, and mustard spinach for the salad dish. Spinach beet and swede turnips should bo sown to carry over the winter months. Carrots for autumn pulling can still he sown. Early Crop and Early - .orn are the most suitable for this work. . Before planting out broccoli, savoys, cabbages, etc., a dressing of lime (new shell) would be most beneficial. Work this in with the fork. THE FLOWER GARDEN The following should be sown for transplanting when annuals are finishedAntirrhinums, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, wallflowers (double and single), anemones, cinerarias, stocks, primulas (malacoides and variety), ranunculus, delphiniums, calendulas, aquilegias, carnations, calceolarias, geuitts, phlox, septosyne, and gerberas jamesonii. , , . Keep all dead flowers and seed pods picked off from flowering plants. A dressing of artificial manure worked in between flowering plants will help the plants at this stage to flower for a longer period. Work 'in the manure with the hoe. This will also help to conserve the moisture and keep the pest under. If the surface of the ground were kept worked more often, we should not have so much trouble with the various pests as we often find when the ground is left undisturbed. FRIENDS OF THE GARDEN I have noticed that the hedgehog is on the increase in our gardens. Some people have an idea that the hedgehog is an enemy instead of a friend in the garden. That is not so, except that we sometimes find a delicate plant broken down. This is caused often by the size and weight of the hedgehog when reaching for insects as a food, which it destroys in great numbers. This friend can be encouraged to remain in the garden by placing a saucer of milk between the plants in the evenings, but it must be fresh. , ’ . Other friends are the carnivorous ground beetles of various sizes and colours. We generally find them crossing the paths and lawns after the sun has set and the light is fading. They are then searching for the insect pests which they destroy in great numbers throughout the night. Another friend is the large spider which we often find throughout the daytime lying under a large leaf. This spicier should never be destroyed as it consumes large numbers of the smaller pests throughout the season. The lovely little ladybird is also one of the most valuable friends of the garden. When in the grub form, with its curious flat dark grey colour it is often destroyed before it is transformed into the beautiful coloured beetle as we know it. Although it has a sluggish nature, it has a great appetite for green aphis and other small insects. Other friends are some of the birds. The sparrow gets a bad name, as often we find if the surface of the soil becomes dry the sparrow takes a dust bath, and very often it is just after we have sown down a seed bed. Again, just as our seedlings are appearing we find the tips nipped off, and we have noticed buds and even blossoms destroyed out of sheer wantonness. We wonder what this bird has been looking for. It is food that it requires, and when searching for the insects in various forms which Nature has taught it to eat the damage is done to the various plants. This can be prevented by placing pieces of stale bread in different positions about the crops in the garden. The destruction of plants and seeds is nearly always done when there is a shortage of food. If one watches in the later spring and early summer when the breeding season is on these .birds can be seen carrying away great numbers of grubs and insects to feed their families. The starling, which should be a great friend to the gardener, is also on the increase. This bird is well known by its beautiful plumage. It consumes large numbers of beetles, grubs, wireworms. and leather jackets throughout the winter and spring, and should bo encouraged in the gardens. We sometimes find when the fruit is ripe that the starling has an appetite for it—generally pears or cherries—but it pays for it by the large numbers of insect posts it destroys throughout’ the year. Other helpers and friends are the blackbird and thrush. These birds destroy caterpillars, slugs, and snails in large numbers, and except in dry weather, when these posts are scarce, the fruit does not suffer. It is only for the want of food that strawberries, raspberries, and .sometimes a riue pear are consumed hv these delightful garden songsters. The little fantail often reminds the writer of these notes of the . English robin,, only one has a red breast and

WORK FOR THE WEEK

the other a black breast. This little fellow is a great help to the gardener throughout the winter months, and also in the earlv spring. It will devour the grubs as fast as one can turn them up from the ground. It also searches throughout the twigs and leaves, and destroys numbers of pests lying there for the breeding season. This little friend should never be disturbed from our gardens or bush. We should never destroy owls or even hawks, as these birds keep down field mice and even rats, which if left unchecked would soon overrun our gardens, and many crops would be deStr ° yCd * F.S.P. FDR EDGINGS QUICK-.GROWING FLOWERS. No border need be without an edging when there are so many cheerful little plants which, sown now, will be in flower in six weeks’ time (says the ‘ Dominion ’).,, The Virginian stock is worthy of first mention. A packet of mixed seed sown now in finely-faked soil will give a mass of bright flowers in a variety of hues. If you sow thinly there will be no need to thin out. The French marigold, tagetes signata pumilla, offers a delightful display of golden-orange flowers on 6in high plants. They should be thinned to Gin apart. For a" mixed pink and white effect sow the dwarf candytuft in a thin line or broad band, according to the width of the edging desired, and thin out the seedlings to a few inches apart, VIOLAS An easy and cheap way to obtain a good stock of viola plants is to sow seeds now. The chief, aim is to produce small, sturdy, well-rooted plants, ready to transplant to b€ds in April (says tlio ‘Dominion’). Seed may be sown in fine sod in the open garden, but if slugs or snails are prevelent, it is safer to sow in a box of sandy loam and leafmould in equal proportions, then place in a frame. They can then be shaded from too strong sunshine, and sheltered from heavy thunderstorms. Make the soil firm and sow the seed on the surface, covering with a little fine soil. Germination is fairly quick, and as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle (they will have made four or five leaves), carefully transpjant to a few inches apart into a reserve bed. This bed, in the open garden, should be in a sheltered situation, and here the may remain until the. following spring. Violas will grow well in almost any position in the garden,; but an enriched soil is most desirable. In a very dry or stiff clay soil they do not give best results. A fairly porous loam in which old stable manure has been incorporated, is ideal. See that the plants are well watered during hot, dry spells. MAKE A CLAMP FOR POTATOES Maincrop potatoes keep in excellent 1 condition if they are stored in a pit or clamp out of doors; Tubers intended for store should be thoroughly ripe before they are lifted; this is ensured by allowing the haulm to turn yellow and die down naturally. Put them, in a clamp immediately the skins are dry (says ‘ Popular Gardening,’ London). The site for the clamp should be as dry as possible. Make the ground firm and arrange the potatoes in a ridge-shaped heap, discarding any that are diseased or were damaged when being lifted. A good width for the base of the' clamp is 3ft or 4ft. It may be wider than this, according to the quantity of potatoes to be stored, but it should be remembered that a narrow base means steep sides, and. this is one of the secrets of'-keeping the store dry, and. consequently, free from rot. The height of tile ridge will be governed bv the width at Qie base. When the heap is completed covar it with clean, dry straw (wheatsstraw is best) to a dejth of 4in or Sin, and leave it thus lor a day or two, pitting on an extra covering of bags or sacking at night. Then cover the heap with a layer of soil about 6iu thick. Dig it from round the outside of the heap; the resultant trench will serve to drain the base of the clamp. Build up the layer of soil firmly with the spade, and make the surface as smooth as possible so that it will throw off moisture. To facilitate ventilation, make a hole through the soil about every 6ft along the ridge, and draw up a handful of \ straw so that it fills the hole. These- little ventilating shafts should be covered with sod in severe weather, and an extra covering of strawy manure will 'give' further protection to the clamp in winter, when sharp frosts are likely tq damage the store. A GOOD ROSE FOR AUTUMN PLANTING As planting time conies round again many rose lovers will be scanning the catalogues, and some will be wondering whether the Comtesse Vandal may be a good thing or not. Well, it is a strong grower, and has had ample opportunity this year of violent contrasts' to demonstrate its hardiness. The foliage is pleasing, with a marked coppery tinge, and the flower stems, which are throwii well above the foliage, are a coppery purplish tint (writes a contributor to ‘ Popular Gardening,’ London). The bloom is large and looks loose, but the straight petals are firm and of good substance, and there is _ a high pointed centre. The colouring is rather unusual, toning from ivory tinged with peach, on the outer petals, to a rather hot copper in the centre; in fact, the deeply-tinted parts are something the colour of Mine Edouard Herriot, and the two would harmonise perfectly. That Comtesse Vandal is hardy is shown by good reports coining in from nurseries all over the country. I have seen splendid blooms in a garden in central Perthshire where the weather this summer has been of a most trying description...

BLACK ROSES The so-called black rose seems to have created a mild sensation on the Continent, and no doubt wo shall see it in this country in due course (says ‘.Popular Gardening,’ London). But does anyone want a really black rose ? Probably the darkest < of all roses now in general cultivation is one named Night; this is, however, not black, but very dark maroon. It is attractive when at its best, but in hot weather the blooms lose colour. One of the darkest of the old roses was Sultan of Zanzibar, a variety which seems to have disappeared from gardens. ' HOW I FILL THE BORDERS It is rather difficult to maintain the display of bloom in borders during the latter part of summer, but this year I have dorfe this by using annuals to supplement the perennials with which my border is chiefly filled. Plants of salpiglossis fully '3ft high are giving a glorious show of blue, purple, crimson, and yellow. This seems to be a good plant for dry seasons. The front row is composed of alternate Golden and Scarlet Gleam nasturtiums, which were sown in May between Mrs Sinkins pinks and polyanthus. The secondary shoots of aucKusa and delphinium, as well as perennial flax, are providing beautiful splashes of blue. White phlox, Caucasian and annual sacious, scarlet and yellow geum, and nemesia are still flowering. Cape hyacinths, single chrysanthemums, and asters are beginning to make a show, and the second crop of blooms on Canterbury bells is not yet over.— ‘ Popular Gardening.’ BRY GARDENING After more than 20 years abroad, I am, for the first time, endeavouring to make a cottage garden in England. I approached the task with diffidehce. It seemed inevitable that my small plot would suffer sadly in comparison with those tended by the. average gardener, with his experience of the _ "habit of plants, and growing conditions in England (writes a contributor to ‘ Popular Gardening ’). My few beds are, however, a blaze of colour in this hot, dry summer, while those of my neighbours are parched and flowerless. Why have I, with my ignorance, succeeded where experience has failed ? Simply because in this drought I have applied to an. English garden the general principles of “ dry farming,or gardening, which is practised in South Africa. Dry gardening is the successful production of crops where there is little, if any, rainfall. The underlying principles are cultivation and the most profitable utilisation of such water as is available. To the dry gardener cultivation means discarding the word “ weeding ” and replacing it by ■‘hoeing’’ or “scarifying.” A weed means nothing to him; he seldom sees one! He turns over his ground and breaks it up with the object of keeping a fine tilth on the surface. The primary reason for this is to preserve the moisture in the subsoil by breaking the channels through which the water ribea by capillary action, to be evaporated by the sun. Another reason for this “ scarifying ” is directly connected with the second principle of dry gardening—the most profitable utilisation of available water. The gardener does not reject the idea of Watering, whether it be with a Can on the vegetable patch or by means of puny irrigation on his “ ?ands,” as cultivated fields are termed in South Africa. He does not imagine that a tilth is a substitute for water; he knows that his efforts in that way are no more than making the best of a bad job and realises that every drop of water is invaluable, if used wisely. The wise application of water is, very different from the haphazard watering, and that is where his tilth fulfils its second function. It is water coming up—not water foing down—that benefits plant life, he dry gardener always remembers this. In watering, he knows that he has to get the water down as far as is possible so that it can return to the surface and perform its mission. Accordingly he waters thoroughly. His carefully prepared tilth acts as a sponge, holding the water while it percolates into the subsoil. Each plant is watered until the soil round it or “ sponge ” is saturated. Perhaps he has only enough water for a few plants. No matter. He knows that those particular plants are safe and will thrive for a considerable period. He also knows that the balance of his garden is still reasonably safe, thanks to the fine tilth. . All this is applicable to English gardens in dry weather. _ I have proved it so where water is limited and has to be lifted with much labour from a well. There is another important point to remember. The water given to, the roots of the plants must not be allowed to be wasted in rapid evaporation. The hoe and the tilth must again come to the rescue! This is the most important stage; as soon as the top layer is dry enough to work the soil must be broken up again.

DWARF BEANS IMPORTANT IN SMALL GARDEN The dwarf bean is a most important crop in the small garden. It not only matures quickly in the midst of summer, supplying a first-class vegetable when 'there is the possibility of a scarcity. If there is a surplus of beans they can always be preserved or bottled by the ordinary vacuum process, or in brine, both methods giving a good vegetable for the winter. Including the white seeded sorts or hari-«. c&t beans as they are called, the pods can be allowed to ripen, the beans-' threshed out and used in the many popular ways that haricot beans are used. The method of preserving in brine is quite simple. Pick the pods when quite young and tender, trim them ready for the, table, but keep them whole, do not slice them. Procure an earthenware jar with a wid« mouth, a tub would do, but the hoops must be willow or painted or they rust • badly. Put in a layer of salt at the bottom, then a layer of beans, and so oh till the jar is filled. The filling can be done over a few weeks, but the beans must be covered with salt; if left exposed to the air mildew will set in. A disc of wood or a saucer weighted will press and keep down the beans. When the jar' is filled tie down to keep out the dust. To rise them take out required quantity and soak overnight, put on to boil, and as soon as the water boils pour it off and then add fresh boiling water. The beans will be found to be almost equal to fresh, beans.— ‘ Marlborough Express^ -