SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 21904, 15 December 1934, Page 29

SEASONABLE WORK

VEGETABLE GARDEN The plants of broccoli, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, and cabbages that were sown in October and November should bo planted out from -the seed bed. Sec that the ground is dug deeply, as all the brassica family like well-dug ground. Small sowings may still be made for the autumn gathering of peas (sow early varieties), butter beans (in warm position), and turnips (early variety), also swede turnips for winter use. Orange Jelly turnip is a splendid variety for autumn and early winter. Spinach beet and prickly spinach should be sown in well-manured ground for autumn and winter cutting. Plant celery out in made trenches where early potatoes were, dug from. Work in a good dressing of blood and bone manure, if no other manure is present. Plant leeks in the same order. Make small sowings of lettuce, radish, mustard, spinach, and mustard and. cress for fresh salads. Marrows, pumpkins, and ridge cucumbers are now making rapid growth, and will need attention by watering and ■also by removing the tips of the leaders, as it is the lateral growths that fruit. A smalt dressing -of artificial manure around the plants' will greatly help them at this stage. Ground which has had early crops removed should'now be sown down with oats, rape, lupins, or mustard for digging in as a green manure. These plants make excellent manures, and are a great change for the land from animal manures and artificials. THE FLOWER GARDEN After the showers which we have been having the last few days,jwhich have done a wonderful amount of good to the annuals, - etc., , now would be the time to run throiigh the surface with the hoe, and whero failures have taken place replant at once, so that there will not be any hollows when flowering time comes along. . Make a small sowing of the following for autumn and winter flowering Poppy (Iceland), stock in varieties, scabiosa, schizanthus, primula malacoides, Calendula’ (radio), cyclamen (under glass), also primula (sinensis), calceolaria, gloxinias, and tuberous begonias. Sow these in a shady position an the greenhouse- If begonia seed is sown now and carried over the winter the small tubers will make fine plants next season. Chrysanthemums are now making rapid growth. Those who are growing for large or exhibition blooms will find that the plants are just making their natural break; that is, forming a bud on the loader. This should be taken away at once, and the lateral growth allowed to come away, ft is a wise thing to allow four, growths until you find the leaders are growing away strongly, then remove one (the weak-Now-is the time that you must be very careful in tying the leading growths. Place a stake to each growth to make sure that the wind does not break these, as" in this stqge the leaders are very tender. If the mixture was made for potting as previously advised in these notes no manures of any kind will be needed yet. Advice will be given as to teeding, et?., later, 1 Those who are growing single and de corative chrysanthemums will' need to pinch out the tips only of their plants —not cut them. By pinching out the tips now will help to keep plants sturdy. It will also help to make better shaped plants. When the leaders make about 9in of growth pinch out the tips again, and continue to do this until the end of January. By this time you will find that you have a well-fur-nished plant—not spindly and unsightly, as we sometimes. See. /This refers io plants in pots or tins or the border. No feeding is required just yet. All growths must be carefully staked. All plants, in the perennial border and beds will benefit by working the hoo between the plants and then giving a dressing of artificial manure. Cut off all dead flower stems from delphiniums, lupins, etc. Sweet peas will require a feeding from now on. Superphosphate or blood and bone applied at the rate of Joz per yard run of row every week. Water in with can. if rain does not follow. Remove all lateral growths if large spikes are required. The following will make a special fertiliser for exhibition flowers of sweet peas ; —Mix together one part nitrate of lime or nitrate of soda, four parts dissolved bones, and one part or sulphate of potash. Apply at the rate ot loz to the yard run or row every ten days. Well water in. THE GLASSHOUSE It is now most important to he careful with the plants in the glasshouse and frames. Water must be given freely and ventilation by day and night, taking off when the sun leaves the house and leaving on a little air by night, if warm. Shading should be done by painting the glass with summer cloud. This will save a lot ot time and worry. Place palms, aspidestras, and asparagus, also ferns, in the shady part ol the house. Tomatoes under glass will need all tiro air that can be given at this period, as ventilation has a great deal to do in presenting sjrot in tomato plants. Bo not over-feed, it is ‘ better to water with week solutions than to overfeed with strong manures, which only induce strong and sappy growth, with little fruit. THE VINERY Now is a very important time for the vinery. Many of the bunches have been thinned, and very great care should be given to the ventilation. At this period ait should be given throughout the day, and not entirely taken oil throughout the nights if the nights are warm. The watering should be attended to with great care. So do not give too inuch, but the bed must not be allowed to get too dry. A few clays after the final thinning . yoUr vines should have the following dressing:— For light sandy soil mix two parts dried blood, two parts dissolved bones, and one part of sulphate of potash. For stiff soils, one part sulphate ot ammonia, two parts guano, and one part bone ash. Mix well together and apply at the rate of 4oz to the square yard, well watered in. F.S.P.