THE LOST TERRACES

Evening Star, Issue 21129, 15 June 1932, Page 2

THE LOST TERRACES

NATURE'S MASTERPIECES RARE, EXQUISITE BEAUTY In recording liis reminiscences of the Tarawcra eruption, of which he is now one of the very few survivors, Mr H. Ltmdius, of Wellington, gives a very clear and realistic description of the Pink and White Terraces. These exquisite masterpieces of Nature’s artistry, which took rank among the wonders of the world, were obliterated during the great upheaval of Juno 10, 1886. _ “ No words could adequately describe the terraces,” writes Mr Lundius. “ Even a brush handled by the greatest artist could not do the subject justice. There are some paintings that are very good and fairly true, but the different shades of colouring cannot bo reproduced, however good the artist may be. He cannot compete with the Great Artist of the Universe. “ Forty-six years ago one route to reach the Hot Lakes district was by steamer to Tauranga, and from there by a long day’s coach journey over a rough but picturesque road to Rotorua. From Rotorua catch was taken to To Wairoa, where joe M‘Rae kept a very' good hotel. Early next morning one embarked on a boat owned and rowed by Maoris for To Ariki, a small Native kianga at the mouth of the Kaiwhaka Stream, which was the outlet for the original Lake Rotomahana.- From Te Ariki the visitor went on foot to the White Terrace, Te Tarata. WHITE TERRACE CRATER. “ This had a frontage of about 800 ft to the lake, and the distance from the lake to tho crowning basin or crater was also about 800 ft. This gives it an area of about 7-i acres. The diameter of the crater was about 220 ft, with a silicated rim 6ft in breadth, enclosing a basin the bottom of which was about 30ft below the rim. In tho centre of this basin was a funnel some 15ft in diameter. Tho basin was generally full to overflowing, but when the wind was southerly it became quite dry; and the writer has descended into it, gone to tho edgo of the funnel, and looked down. Tho water rose with a mighty roar to within a few feet of where I stood. I often think now what a foolhardy thing it was to do, but at that time I did not know what fear was. “ The surface of tho White Terrace was rather rough, something like coral, and it was painful to walk on it barefooted. Hence only a few bathed in the buttresses. When the crater was not overflowing the colouring in tho buttresses was beautiful beyond description. RUSE TO CATCH DUCKS. “ From the White Terraco to tho Pink one canoes were taken across the original Rotomahana Lake, which was a rather unattractive sheet of water, being sedgy, with clouds of steam rising from numerous boiling springs round it. The area was not more than forty or fifty acres. Its water was quite warm, and there were generally 'numerous wild ducks about. As the Maoris did not allow any shooting over it the birds wore not shy. The Natives had, however, an ingenious way of catching them. They made a headdress of rushes, completely hiding tho head, and waded out into the lake until they arrived in the midst of tho unsuspecting ducks. They then caught them by the legs and pulled tho bird under the water so quickly that it did not have time to warn its friends of tho sudden danger. Many a duck have I caught in this manner. “ The colour of tho Pink Terraco was, as tho name indicates, a pale pink. Its surface was soft and smooth like polished marble or enamel. Looking down into tho cauldron, one saw the most exquisite colouring, beyond description. The flow of water was uniform, and the cauldron never became empty like tho one on the White Terraco. It flowed quietly from buttress to buttress, so that by the time it reached the lower ones it was just comfortably warm for a bathe. BATHING IN PINK TERRACE. “ Bathing was generally indulged in at the Pink Terraco. There were no dressing sheds. Disrobing had to be done in the friendly shelter of the manuka. As mixed bathing had not then been introduced the sexes took turns. One generally got into one of the lower buttresses wherever one found the water to bo of suitable temperature, and then as one got used to it gradually worked up to near the cauldron.

“ Tiie journey back to the boat was either done on foot or hy canoe down the Kaiwhaka Stream. Sonic did not like the latter trip, as there were several rapids to ho negotiated; and even tho late Admiral Tryon, of Campcrdown fame, was said to have been rather nervous doing this trip, if there were only one or two persons who wanted

to visit the terraces the trip was done on horsehaek on mounts supplied by the Maoris.”