THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 20422, 1 March 1930, Page 26

THE GARDEN

WmtK FOR THE WEEK.

SEASONABLE WORK THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 'The principal work in this department now will be in giving attention to growing crops. Weed seeds are coming away in battalions, and must be dealt with. The free use of hoe and rake at this season of the year will soon relieve the position. Keep the ground well stirred among recently planted vegetables, to keep them growing. Where the soil is light and dry watering may be necessary. . Checks of any kind, whether it be through poverty of soil or want of moisture, are very liable and almost sure to bring on club root or other troubles. Celery should be earthed up as growth demands, the final earthing to bo done about live weeks before it is ready for use. On no account do this earthing up when the roots are dry, but water them first, or it may bo the cause of their bolting to seed. Clear off spent crops as they go out of season. Dig, manure, or trench vacant ground, at the same time burying all refuse as this work proceeds. Keep asparagus beds clean and free from weeds, especially young plants, which are soon overrun with them. Stems showing seed should be removed if the seed be not required, or it will drop when ripe and grow, and disorganise the bed. Ground should be prepared for au-tumn-sown onions. Trench and manure the ground well now, and in a week or a fortnight prepare the surface and sow the seed. Sow black or white seeded Cos lettuce for winter use. These are much hardier, and stand the winter better than the cabbage lettuce. Strawberries should he planted if not already in. Sow cabbage of the Imperial or Flower of Spring kinds to stand tho winter in the seed bed. Sow also cauliflowers for early spring planting. . Lift and store potatoes, especially early kinds, should their tops have ripened off, as there is a danger of them sprouting after heavy rains.

“A.F.P.”—You received some tulips, narcissus, anemones, and ranunculus from Holland at the beginning of last year. As they were shooting you planted them, and now they are about Tin out of tho ground. You ask what yon can do with them, and if frost will kill them.—Tho only thing you can do is to keep the ground clean and free from weeds and leave them. They aro now acclimatising. They should right themselves this season. After the tops have gone off lift and store and replant later. “Learner.” —(1) You have a large loganberry, and wish to know when to shift it—Cut back all the growth except three or four strong young shoots. Shorten these back a little when planting, about April of May. Yes, they will grow from cuttings. (2) You have a Lily of the Valley hod, and the roots aro very thick. But there are very few flowers. You do not say where or how they aro grown or in what district. Write again and give me a few particulars, and I will advise you. Your signature next time, please. H.C.

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER TRIALS Interesting trials in varieties of cabbage and cauliflower have been made at the Bathurst Experiment Farm, and noted in tho seed and nursery trades recently (says the ‘ Australasian ’). Tho tyest early cauliflower during the past season was Maitland Market, followed by Early Phenomenal, Early Snowwhite, a strain of Special Giant, in the order named. It is intended to take Maitland Market as the standard early variety in tho Bathurst centre. The best late cauliflower was a strain of Six Months Special Giant. This variety has proved th eraost satisfactory maincrop variety. Succession has proved the best main-crop cabbage to date at this centre; the local strain this season was far superior to tho European strain, while the departmental strain was somewhat superior to tho commercial strain. Succession is of the Drumhead type, and tho hearts are generally largo ami firm. The most satisfactory early variety was Enkhuisen Glory, which is of the Ball head type; this variety has a very solid heart of medium size, and showed excellent keeping qualities in the field, satisfactory hearts being harvested in late September. Winningstadt was considered the most satisfactory early to mid-season variety after Enkhuisen Glory. It is a medium-sized early variety, and the hearts are very solid, and keep well in the field.

» THE rIOWER GARDEN Remove all faded flowers and seed heads from plants going out of season. Do not allow them to exhaust themselves unnecessarily where the seeds of any kind aro_ not required. Bulbous plants in particular are never so good if they are allowed to ripen a crop of seed. Not only does it weaken tho bulbs or plants, but is decidedly untidy. . . Dahlias will now require staking, tying, and disbudding. Where firstclass blooms are required for show purposes a good soaking of_ liquid manure during dry weather will prove very beneficial. Remove dead flowers and seed heads, also suckers, from dwarf bush roses or Finish tho work of budding before it is too late.

THE SCENT OF FLOWERS Next to tho catalogue, which is the true garloner’s favourite study (says the ‘Gardeners’ Chronicle,’ Londbn), descriptions of gardens give, perhaps, the most solace; who, for example, could not spend a pleasant hour and discover troops of awakened memories in reading or re-reading Dr F. A. Hampton’s charming paper on ‘ Tho Scent of Flowers ’ ? Most freakish of all tho senses, smell is ationco potent and elusive. The man of 'science who has much to tell us on all such subjects imputes this freakishness to the variable state of degeneracy of the olfactory tract of our brains—and, of course, to our regular and liberal use of tobacco. Lot it lie conceded that our sense of smell is not of the acutest—a mere nothing compared with that possessel by the dog, who puts up the intrusive rabbit at our feet and pursues its track unerringly and unsuccessfully across our best flower beds. , Nevertheless, although wo may not possess—for better or for worse—tho sharpness of scent of tho hunting animal, it is sufficiently developed in most of us to make the well-planted garden a source of almost as much pleasure to our noses as it is to our eyes. For the odours of tho garden como to welcome us—heralds of the pomp and glory of the summer day. So it is interesting to learn that wo owe, perhaps, most of the fine and soft odours of tho garden to tho conspiracy which moths and flowers eritered into long ages ago. There arc flowers that smell unpleasantly and look no less unpleasant—these, the Stapelias and Privets, and others—are in league with flies. To attract these creatures the flowers must needs acquire a carrion odour. Lot us pass these by with averted noses. Then there aro the multitudes of bright flowers, masses of colour which in like manner lay themselves out to captivate the hoc so that by incessant visiting pollen shall ho brought from ono flower to the stigma of another of like kind. The bee, like most very busy people, is nob very gifted. Its sence of colour is but partial, and lienee it needs a lob to attract its notice. The bee’s sense of smell is about as good as the average human being’s, and is undoubtedly helpful in guiding it to the honcyscentod clovers and limes and gorse, and ebon, as Dr Hampton avers, to the deeply spice-scented broad bean and tho delicately fragrant sweet pea. It is, however, among tho flowers which made that old compact whereby moths should be the bearers of floral fertility that the exquisite odours of the garden aro to be found. Tho moths, and in particular those that fly by night, have need of strong odours to guide them, less they miss one another in tho darkness and so become extinct. And so, hovering, they wave plumes like fans, in courtship, diffuse sweet odours, as though “ a box of essences were broken in tho air.” These odours which the night-flying moths scatter aro like unto the odours of jasmine, honeysuckle, musk vanilla, and all those wonderful scents of the strikingly odoriferous flowers. So that—thougu heaven forbid —it would appear that the flowers with these exquisite scents have produced them to lure the moths away from their own love trysts to tne cognate affairs of the flowers themselves. We shall imagine tho joyous confusion of those night-flying moths when they discover on balmy evonuigs that the adours which whisper to them of lovo arc everywhere, i’ho cynical, who spoil everything, might aver that in this strange world of the nightflying moths and the night-blooming flower the menage a trois first saw the light.” Beside this splendid group of exquisitely scented flowers, there are, other smaller and scarcely less interest! m>- groups. Thus tho flowers of Calycauthus floridus, brown in colour and' suggestive of decaying fruit, attract the wasp, uo doubt for that reason. It would bo possible to linger much longer with pleasure and profit over Dr Hamilton’s fragrant pages; to ask with him whether the true old rose

Lift and pot off layers of 1 carnations as fast as they are rooted, or, where they are to be planted directly where thev are to flower, prepare the ground or 'beds for them, as tho sooner they are in tho better. Plant out off-sets of approved kinds of polyanthus and auriculas, giving them rich and well-manured ground. Thin out early-sown hardy annuals and biennials. Another sowing may also be made to fill in a blank after spring bulbs have gone off flowering. Propagate bv cuttings geraniums, both zonal anil pelargoniums, antirrhinums, petunias, verbenas, and others. The most suitable place_ tor striking cuttings at this season is a cold close frame, but geraniums will root freely in the open border now. Pansies and violas put in dnrmg thishot, dry season of the year will require to he kept moist and shaded from hot sun. ' ■ , . , Pot off hyacinths and narcissus tor flowering during the winter months. Freesias to be potted now or very shortly. Others may be planted m the open border, giving theni a* ricli ■unrm bonier and sunny situation. Plant tulips, narcissus, anemones, ranunculus, and other spring-flowering bulbs, including lilies. Propagate from layers or cuttings or hardy flowering and other shrubs; hoe and rake flower beds and borders.

THE VINERY Grapes should now be in the forward state of colourng. Where the vines have been planted inside the vinery it is a good practice, but rarely carried out, to give the border a good dusting of artificial manure, superphosphate being very suitable for vines. After this give a last and good soaking of water. This has a remarkable eftect upon finishing off both in colour and size- From now all ventilation should bo left open night and day to thoroughly ripen off both fruit and wood, for a great deal depends upon tho ripening of the wood for the next season’s crop of fruit. . . Continue to stop or pinch back all laterals and sub-laterals as they appear. THE TOMATO HOUSE The recent spell of warm weather has had an improving and beneficial effect upon the ripening of fruit. Attend carefully to the removal or pinching out of all side shoots or surplus growth. Remove also all seared oi yellow leaves,, and where tho growth is at all excessive or strong clip oft tho points of tho leaves to admit more light and air. As the ripening of the fruit proceeds give less water. But do not let them suffer for want of it. Give a good watering only when tho soil is dry, and increase ventilation. Give it both night and day, unless when actually raining. V* hero is is desired to save seed from approved or favoured kinds, bo careful to pick or set aside some of tho best-shaped and best formed and from tho most prolific croppers. They always tend to give better returns than from those saved more off-hand. The seed may bo washed out and dried after the fruit has got quite dead ripe. ANSWERS “W.M.” wishes to know if it would be possible to shift a rhododendron hush about 7ft high and about eighteen years’ old, and about what time to shift. —Yes; it is quite possible to shift a rhododendron that sizo and ago. After tho heavy frosts aro past in spring will be the best time to move it. When doing so give tho roots a good watering a few hours before lifting, and after it is planted to settle tlie soil about its roots lift it with a good ball of earth and roots.

©ar *■ «04iw«a garifanw, w*a b® glad fc> answer qwssfcaaq, wlnet most la Eocofreci not later than Taaeday <rf each week. -Othu nscat he banded in to office hetoeo 2 P-*®* ®* Friday.

scent is found only among the pink, white, and red roses; whither lias lied the true musk odour of the musk plant (Mimulus moschatus); and how it is that the ninsk scent of Wichuraiana roses is confined to the stamens —or, as Parkinson stated it three hundred years ago, “ the cheerful scent of these roses consisteth not in the leaves hut in the threads of the flowers.” And, lastly, to chronicle the new or newer odour-bearing plants—the sweet-scented Viburnum Carlesii and V. fragrans, Hammamelis. mollis, Osmanthus Delavayi and Lomcera syringantha; and to record the pleasant legend that the scent of Mentha dtrata is the original scent of the world from which all others are derived; one so powerful that it will enhance the fragrance of any flower near it.

MANURING GF POTATOES The authorities of the Edinburgh and East of Scotland College of Agriculture have issued the results of experiments conducted at the Forfarshire farms of Oldbar, Luchty, and Newton of Boysack, in connection with the manuring and variety of potatoes (says the ‘Gardeners’ Chronicle ). The average results at these throe centres were as follows: —King Edward, 13 tons 6 cwt; Arran Consul, 12 tons 9$ cwt; Great Scot, 12tons 3 qrs; Majestic, 9 tons 6 cwts 2 qrs; Ally, 8 tons 18 cwt 1 qr; and Golden Wonder, 8 tons 18 cwt. At Hillend, Lawton, and the Royal Asylum, Montrose, experiments were made with a view to ascertaining the limits of economic manuring. The mixture of manures are made up of 2 cwt sulphate of ammonia, 2 cwt superphosphate, J, cwt steamed boneflour, and 2 cwt sulphate of potash, distributed at the rate of (i, 8, 10, and 12 cwt per acre. The average results at the three centres were:—Plot 1, 12 tons 9 cwt; plot 2. 13 tons 5J cwt; plot 3, 13 tons 13 cwt; plot 4, 13 tons 19[ cwt. The test hero was to ascertain what crop increase could be obtained by successive applications of 2 cwt of manure_°t value approximately 17s. The increase in plot 2 over plot 1 with potatoes valued at £3 per ton, shows a return of almost three times the extra outlay on manure. In plot 3, the extra cutlav is more than paid for, while in plot 4 the value is still on the ri"ht side. This would seem to indicate that much larger dressings of suitable “artificials” might safely be given to potato crops. It is proposed that further experiments on these nnes should be conducted, starting with a heavier dressing and a mo ‘e concentrated manure. Partly on the same Ihies an experiment was conducted at two centres with a view to ascertainin'- the effect of increasing the (masn applied, and the results scorn to show that an increased dressing of potash does not give satisfactory results unless the quantity of nitrogen is also increased. They show that no satisfactory increase has been secured oy using more than 2 cwt of sulphate or potash per acre, but in another experiment a satisfactory increase was obtained where the dressing of potash ■was equivalent to 3J cwt per acie.

WOOLLY APHIS Woollv aphis (Eriosoma lanigera) attacks tho apple chiefly, and the pear occasionally. The aphides pierce the mark and obtain their nourishment entirely from the sap, and when they arc present in numbers so much sap is withdrawn that tho tree is weakened considerably (writes a contributor to tho ‘Gardener’s Chronicle, London). They also attack the roots in the same manner, and tins renders thou exteiruination rather difficult; the leaves and fruits arc rarely attacked, but there is probably a constant migration going on between roots and branches. The woolly aphis may lie recognised easily in an orchard by the masses ol white, woolly substance formed by the larva) and females. Various methods of control and eradication have been put forward from time to time, such as banding the trees in the same manner as lor winter moth, to prevent the upward migration of the aphides in spring; using a strong caustic winter wash and driving the spray, with some force, into every crack and crevice; and painting the affected parts with methylated spirit, or paraffin, if the trees are old, using a stiff brush and working the spirit into any cankered parts. A mixture of limesulphur and nicotine is also recommended. employing tho lime-sulphur at a strength of one in twelve, adding one ounce or nicotine for each twelve gallons of the diluted spray. So far I have not seen a painter s blow lamp advocated', vet it is a most effective means of eradicating this pest above ground The lamp is charged and lighted, and so long as the operator directs tho flame with very rapid movement all over the trunk and the affected parts, no injury to the tree will result, and not an aphis will be left alive, as the flame is most penetrating. Tho trunks should then bo grease-banded, and tho grease kept in a sticky condition. If the infestation is of long standing, the roots of the trees will probably be affected, and measures above ground are therefore insufficient. Probably the only control in such cases is the injection into tho soil of carbon bisulphide during March or April, when the soil is in a fairly dry condition. This substance should not, however, be allowed to come into direct contact with tho roots, and, being of a highly inflammable nature, is probably best left alone. Instead, tho grease bands should be employed throughout tho year, and the parts below them sprayed occasionally with nicotine or paraffin emulsion.

THE LOGANBERRY A correspondent of the London ‘ Times ’ says the loganberry originated in California, having come up in the private garden of Judge Logan, at the spot where ho had sown seeds of the common wild blackberry, the “ dewberry ” of California. Because of its red colour, the judge concluded that }iis new berry was a hybrid between the common dewberry and the raspberry, and for a time the loganberry was believed to be such, i Later the concensus of opinion of 1 workers in pomology and botany was ' contrary to this view, for no raspberry I characters could be discovered in the loganberry, and the view was put forward that the loganberry is simply a ' sport from the common dewberry. A good deal of research work is in proj gross to clear this mutter up.