THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 20056, 22 December 1928, Page 22

THE GARDEN

Omr coctrfbwfcor. » wett-known gardoaer, will be glad to answer questione, which must b« reoshed not later than Tuesday of each week. AdTOrGwmenta for this column must be handed in to the office before ■ 2 p.m. on : Friday. ■

SEASONABLE WORK THE VEGETABLE GARDEH Open oub and prepare trenches for planting out celery, using plenty of manure, as the quicker and better it is grown the finer and crisper the celery. Plant lock's in a similar way only a little closer in the rows. Early potatoes may bo lifted and the ground prepared to receive winter greens or follow-on crops, such as a final sowing of peas or 1 reach beans. I3y lifting early potatoes after they are well advanced the advantage is twofold. If sets are wanted for the .next early planting they are better when lifted early than if lell until the tops die down. Further. it gives good and suitable ground ior the early planting of winter greens. Plant autumn giant cauliflowers, broccoli, savoys, and curlie kale. Iho last named is best alter it has a touch of frost. . . Plant also hrnssel sprouts. I his is a very fine winter vegetable, but must bo well grown from start to finish, for if pat in poor ground and the growth is stunted blight is very likely to atlack it in tho dry hot early autumn. All those vegetables are much better ti bo got in as early in January as possible, or, ’ otter still, this month. .Sow swedo turnips to como in for winter use, also green or purple top turnips for summer purposes. Snowball turnips sown now will bo ready arl out of the ground before the ' others aro ready. Continue to thin out crops as previously advised. Hoe and rake between growing Crops to stimulate growth and keep down weeds. Should rhubarb show seed heads break them out at once, or the crowns will bo weakened Idr producing good stalks later. Attend to tho regular cutting of asparagus, and at tho end of tho month ceaso cutting for the Reason to give tho roots time to build up strong crowns for next season. Later on, where the tops grow vigorously, it is well to drive in a. few stakes and tie with binder twine to protect the tops irom strong winds. THE ROSE GARDEN PUDDING. This operation is tho usual method, and iho best for propagating the rose ju tho open air. Like nearly everything * else, it is very easy _ when you know how to do it. There is no doubt whatever tho best way to learn is to watch someone else at work. But many have not iho opportunity of doing this, therefore 1 will try for their benefit to explain as clearly ns possible the lew points necessary for tho work., hirst, procure a good sharp budding knife, and then strips of raffia and labels ior naming tho variety to bud. Usually January and early in February aro tho best months to bud, but the important point is to catch the buds in the right condition, whether it bo now or a month hence, and that time is when tho buds at tho base of J ho loaves on the young growth of this season arc plump and the stocks ready lor budding. Assuming, then, all is ready, procure a ’half-ripe shoot with suitaide eyes attached of the kind required for budding; clip or cut off all the leaves, leaving only a slight stem for the easy handling of the bud. Tho quicker an*d cleaner the operation is carried out the better aro the' chances of success. .Insert the blade of a sharp knife from Jin to nearly lin above tho bud, giving a sloping cut, bringing out tho made about the same distance below the bud. Turn tho bud bottom up between the thumb and linger of tho left hand, then with the point of tho knife and the thumb of the right hand draw out with a jerk tho wood from the bud. If it has como away properly it will have the appearance of a grain of sand lying in the hollow of tho bud. Shorten back the head of the bud, make a clean cut up the stem near the ground, about-2in in length, and a cross cut at the top like the letter “T.” Insert the handle of the budding knife under the bark and push down the bud to the base of the cut and carefully tie in the bud firmly, but not too tightly, with ralfia or worsted, and the operation is complete. Should the season bo a dry one at the time of budding, then it would bo wise to give the stocks a good watering to keep the sap flowing until the buds have become established and sound. In about three weeks’ time examine the buds, and if then any have failed insert another bud on some other part of tiie stem, and before tho seas'ou is past for budding. In about four weeks after budding, nick with a sharp knife or loosen tho bandage, or it may cut into tho stem and injure the bud. To secure good fruit and to maintain healthy and vigorous trees, thinning out the fruit is an important point. To allow trees to carry fruit in hunches —whether they, he apples, pears, peaches, or others—moans poor fruit •uid tho exhaustion or over-cropping of tho tree. In such cases it will have to be paid for sooner or later with the trees giving poor crops, and most likely the year following. Where black spot and scab on apples and pears been troublesome, spray at once. Thin out over-crowded or cross sboot-j on young fruit trees, and where a strong or gluttonous shoot has grown away at the expense of others, pinch out point to divert the sap into other channels. Then a more even set ot shoots or growth will be tho result. Nail or tie in- young branches on small trees when vacancies occur, and keep all breast wood cut back to one or two eyes to’admit light and air to the fruit and ripen the wood. Hoe or dig up suckers from raspberries, and keep down weeds to admit more sun and air to the plants and fruit. ■ . Begin to layer strawberries, borne people say they root themselves. This js true, but layered plants are very much better and more productive. This is easily done. jtA that is required is to place a handful or good soil at the back of tho first break on each runner, i Thoy t will soon root, after which cut off the point. Allow only one on each runner. it allowed it will make two or three, hut these are not so good. ANSWERS «TB" asks: “Should rhubarb he cut or pulled ?”-Undoubtedly milled, but in pulling rhubarb always pull the bottom leaves first, and by doing bo null it with a sharp jerk sideways so that each stick comes away,clean. I presume you mean the atpwth of the stem is a flat, abnormal growth. 1 wish you had sent me . a plant or part of a plant, for I do not remember seeing such a thing before with tomatoes. I could no* say it there is disease m the plants without jeeing them, but I do not thjnk so. 1 ihould certainly plant two or three ot them for an experiment. . [I am sorry the tvvo_ above notes arrived too fate . for publication last week.] . “St. Kilda.”—You have an oleum hedge, and for the last two seasons it has been badly affected with blight, jhe worst is on .the side facing the sea.

You should have sent me a small portion along; but I feel sure it is the gall midge. If so, there is no real cure, only a preventive by spraying with either arsenate of load (two teaspoonfuls in one gallon of water) or tar water. Clip, and burn clippings; then spray with the abouc. If you are not sure, send mo a sample. " Rhododendron.”—A Mosgiel visitor to tho Dunedin Horticultural Society’s show last week wished to know the name of a rhododendron that was exhibited but not labelled. It is Duchess of Connaught, a very old variety. [ will reply to “ 1).A.15.” next week. H.C. CARROTS Carrots require two very essential ingredients—namely, potash and lime. To grow this popular and useful .vegetable to perfection the ground should bo dug Jft deep, working in at the same time a good dressing of newly slaked lime and some 50 per cent, ol potash. Wood ashes will supply thp latter ingredient, but if these are not available procure a good potash artificial manure. On deep, well-worked soil tho roots will penetrate to tho full 'depth of the soil. They will bo beautifully tapered and of that deep red colour so much desired, making them fit for tho exhibition stand. On no account must thp plants he crowded, even in their young state, as this will weaken constitution. If given' a good start with all tho weeds kept down, they quickly become established and able to look after themselves. Carrots do not require shelter and may bo sown with advantage in the most exposed position in the garden. Shade and rank manure are to be avoided, as these conditions tend to produce much green top and ill-shaped roots. Frequent hoeing is essential whore high quality is looked for in vegetables. In tho case of stiff soils, the ground during dry weather cracks dreadfully, and to obviate this, boo tho surface frequently. GARDEH TULIPS TRADITIONAL PLAfiTIHG TIME . In theory all spring flowering bulbs which gardeners may intend to plant should bo in the ground when Nature moves them to push out fresh roots after the annual rest she prescribes for them (says a correspondent of tho London ‘Times’). But Nature works by no calendar; she varies her mood from year to year, and no ono knows what starts tho subtle influence which impels bulbs to begin their file anew. In a dry season bulbs which begin to “ move ” "in tho autumn, such as daffodils, snowdrops, vernal crocuses, tulips, and the like, are dormant till they are stirred into activity by tho Jirsb autumn rains. Jn a rainy season tho same bulbs would bpgnr’ their growth sooner. For gardeners the matter is complicated, because they fill their gardens with bulbs from continents where tho seasons are tho opposite of ours, and, having no set timetable to work to, they have evolved aiT ill-defined planting season for the bulbs which are commonly used in gardens- and can bo dried and stored for months like apples or onions. As a rule, the bulbs of spring-flowering species of plants aro much more impatient of separation from their mother earth than the varieties and should ho planted in early autumn; lilies aro a law unto themselves. Practice and experiment have shown that, with the exception of the species referred to, it.is immaterial whether tulips are planted in September, October, or early November (March, April, and May in New Zealand). The main point is that the bulbs should bo hard and sh,ow no signs of the softness which precedes dissolution in those kept out of tho ground too long. Tradition, born in Holland generations ago, has chosen St. Martin’s Day; as an appropriate date for the planting of garden tulips, and all that can be said about it is. that the work is better done before than after that date. It is a commonplace that garden tulips gain in effect if massed in beds and borders, and when used in that way they extend tho flowering season of a garden by making it gay in April (October). The objection so often urged against the use of spring-flowering bulbs in herbaceous borders is that when tho flowers aro spent the leaves, which are none too quick to wither, are untidy and block the way for other plants. Spent tulips certainly can bo untidy, especially when tho leaves are ravaged by disease, and for those whom tho untidiness offends the remedy is to lift the bulbs carefully and to lay them in shallow trenches, previously prepared, where they can finish the natural process of ripening. The number of tulips is now legion, and is continually increasing. Certain kinds, however, have long since reached the top of the class and will nob easily be displaced by change of fashion, if only because they hold their place by merit. They may well form tho nucleus which can he enlarged by those who let their fancy roam over the tulip colour ■ chart. Of late years it has been widened by the accession of various shades of lavender, violet, purple, and bronze, and if many of tho former have little permanent value, the bronze tints aro an acquisition. Among the latter, that called Prince Albert, a revived Dutch garden variety growing about knee-high, is good, and so is the olive-brown James Wild, an old cottage tulip of fine, goblet shape. Orange King is a third good tulip of the so-called cottage class, with a delicious fragrance. Those who like pastel shades should try Fairy Queen, a late-flowering cottage tulip with large, egg-shaped petals in which rose and gold predominate. The virtues of the lovely, flower called Springtime have been proclaimed in this column before and remain untarnished; it has now a companion in Logan Rose, an elegant bloom with a waist and pointed petals, the colour rather lighter than the vieux rose of the incomparable Springtime. Carrara is a peerless white flower. , . Of the old guard which is indispensable to those who appreciate pure colour combined with poise and form, the pico tees—elegans , alba,_ and Pico tee —are unmatched., Gesneriana spathulata rivals Hie wild tulip of Turkestan in its brilliant colour,_ and the primrose form (lutea pallida) is a good foil to it. La Merveille stands by itself, Prince de Xfigny is an early-flower-ing, warm yellow tulip, and Prince of Austria indispensable.' Schoonord .has a double white flower like a peony and should bo better known. , ~

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

ON THE USE OF LIME [From the ‘ Gardener’s Chronicle,' London.] The’Tegular use-of lime is a precept well known to cultivators of the soil, whether their interests be in fanning proper, in growing crops under glass, or in the care of allotments and gardens.' It is, however, a fact that tho use of lime is a principle which is frequently not. practised at all, even by those who aro well aware of its importance. It is also mi fortunately true that, in many cases, lime is used indiscriminately, sometimes when not required, and more often in quite unsuitable forms. It may, perhaps, ho advisable at the outset to define tho uses of lime in the soil. Although there are several minor functions which linie may bo called upon to fulfil, there arc two main purposes for which it should bo applied, and these must he clearly distinguished in order to avoid an,unprofitable application. The effect of lime may be mechanical or chemical. TJUE MECHANICAL EFFECT OF LIME. A soil which tends to he heavy will, in the absence of lime, have its “ st icky ” properties accentuated, especially it not well supplied with organic matter. The regular use of lime on such a soil should make it easier to work, and the clods will crumble much more easily, whilst tho preparation of a seed bed in tho spring, and the maintenance of a lino texture on tho surface during the summer will be greatly facilitated. There are many heavy soils, however, which aro somewhat difficult to work, although quite well supplied with lime. In such cases tho full influence of the lime has already been exerted, and applications of furtlier quantities will have no good effect in improving the texture. THE CHEMICAL EFFECT OF LIME, The second important function of lime in tho soim is to prevent the development of acidity or sourness. It should not bo thought that only over-manured soils tend to become sour. All soils have this tendency, ’even if not cropped at all, but the rate at which sourness develops is increased if tho soil is light, and if manures (either dung or certain artificials) are being applied every year. In such cases it frequently happens that lime must bo applied regularly every few years to replace tho largo quantities lost by cheniical action and by drainage. Soils which aro acid cannot yield maximum crops; there are some crops, however, winch arc more tolerant of sour conditions than others. Potatoes, for example, succeed in a soil which is too acid to grow good crops of turnips, peas, or beans. Sourncss’in some cases niny bo apparent from simple observations. The presence of certain plants, such as bracken, sorrel, and spurrey in the neighbourhood is an almost certain sign of acid conditions. Plants on sour soils frequently do well to begin with, and then fail badly later in the season, especially if rough conditions prevail. This effect is shown very well on acid tennis lawns, where, after a spell of dry weather in July or_ August (January and February in New Zealand), the main part of the court may ho quite brown, whereas the grass where tho lines have been marked, which has thereby received regular dressings ofchalk, appears bright green. Disappointing results from the use of manures is another common experience on sour soils. TESTS FOR LIME. Bub more information than this is needed. It is desirable before deciding to attempt to improve the “workability “—i.e,, physical condition, of a soil base by liming to ascertain if there is an ample reserve already present. The following simple test may prove ot value for this purpose. Obtain a small quantity of hy'drochlom acid —i.e., muriatic acid or spirits of salt, from a chemist or an oil shop. Dilute about a tablcspoonful of this with about five tahlespooiifuls of water in an old jug or cup. Do, not actually measure the acid in a metal spoon, and do not use a metal container for the diluted mixture. Then place some of tho soil to bo tested in a saucer, and pour a small quantity of the diluted acid on to tho soil. A reserve of chalk in tho soil is indicated by effervescence, or “ fizzing,” and if tho bubbles come off freely, producing definite frothing, it is safe to assume that the texture of tho soil will' not be improved by liming, and also that tho soil is not likely to become sour, at any rate for many years. If, however, there is very little or no reserve of chalk in the soil, the following test may bo employed to determine ,vt|iether or not there is any lime required. Obtain from a chemist, at the cost of about Is, and eight-ounce bottle of 5 per cent, aqueous salicylate of soda. Then select a small bottle of colourless glass of about two ounces capacity; clean it well, and remove any labels. Place into this small bottle about two tcaspoonfuls of the soil to bo tested, and add about twice , this quantity of the solution. Shake well for several minutes, then allow to stand for about half an hour until the soil settles, leaving the liquid clear. Notice tho colour of the liquid standing over tho soil. If there is any pink or red tint in the liquid the soil is “.sour, and lime is required, but liquid is colourless or only a. brcnvnisu “ muddy colour, no linie is required. These two tests may be carried out quite well by any grower in his own home, but if more detailed information is needed about a soil or if a guide as to the quantities of lime it would bo profitable to apply aro required a sample should bo sent to the local county horticultural or agricultural organiser, who will arrange for the necessary tests to he made at the. analytical centre, which is usually the agricultural college situated in that area. The sample ot soil should be taken from at least six places in tho area to be tested, and should represent the soil to a.depth of 9in. If a spade is used it should be driven in vertically, so as to obtain a sample which does not contain an undue proportion of the top few.inches. About 41b of the soil is a sufficient quantity to forward for analysis* VARIOUS FORMS OF LIME. Having decided whether a soil will benefit by liming, the next problem which confronts the grower concerns the form of lime to apply, and here the comparative merits of lime, chalk, and other similar substances come under review. The various materials which may be used can be classified as follows: (a) Substances in which quick lime is the predominant ingredient—e.g., lump lime, shell lime, and ground lime. (b) Forms-of slaked lime or hydrated lime. • (c) Ground chalk or ground limestone. (d) Precipitated chalk. (o) Refuse limes. All these substances have to bo dissolved in the soil water before, they cam fulfil their function, and in this connection ; it is worthy of consideration that lime or chalk should he spread on tho surface and allowed.to-wash into the soil, or at most should be only iightly forked in. Owing to the fact

that limy at lower levels does nob work its way upwards, digging it in may only result in bringing up to_ tbe surface a sour layer of soil, which never benefits from the application., When once the material has dissolved ut < lip rain and. Soil -water its effect is the siiiß'i whether itwas applied in the form of lime or chalk, so that the main consideration ,in deciding between i the various substa-ures Ip rote afc which they dissolve. Lime in the lorm ol quick lime—i.o., burnt lime, lump lime, shell lime, or cr rol ji]d , lime—is comparatively soluble in water, and soon becomes distributed throughout tbe soil water system. Excess over-and above that quantity neutralised in, or absorbed by. the soil very quickly becomes fixed in the soil in the form of chalk in a very fine state of division, in which lorm it acts as a ready reserve for subsequent needs. It is fairlv well known that quick lime, slaked Time, and chalk are equivalent chemically to one another in .the iproportions of sGlb, 741 b, and 1001 b. When these figures are applied to-the. use of commercial articles, however, it should be remembered that none of the substances over reach 100 per cent, purity, and may often tall far below this figure. Samples ol lime as sold frequently contain less than 40 per cent, of burnt lime;'the remainder of the material consists of nnbnrnt chalk and impurities. , LUMP LIME. As a rule lump lime is the purest form of lime to buy, but samples of this are often very incompletely burnt. A sample may contain, for instance, GO per cent, of free lime (partially slaked), 40 per cent, of chalk, and 10 per cent, of impurities. Such a sample would theoretically bo worth only slightly more than a good sample of ground chalk, and, in fact, would probably be worth much less, since the iniburnt chalk would not be in a finely ground condition. Good samples of lime should contain at least 75 per cent, of quick lime. The disadvantage of using lump or shell lime is that it has to be slaked before spreading on the soil. It should he borne in mind that only the very best quality lime will slake in a really satisfactory manner. The heaps should be exposed to the rain, or preferably wotted artificially (lewt of lime requires djgal of water), and the lumps should swell up and crumble to a very line powder almost immediately, leaving no lumps at all. This powder may then bo spread evenly over the ground. GROUND LIME Ground lime is apt to pick up moisture during grinding by air-slaking, and the ground product is much more liable to deterioration in quality during transport and storage than is lump lime. Ground lime, moreover, is frequently quoted at lower prices than lump lime, and in such cases the former probably contains more aslics and other impurities. The advantage of using lime already ground is that it may bo distributed direct from the bags on to the ground. HYDRATED LIME. I’robably the most satisfactory form in wdiich to handle lime is as slaked lime or hydrated lime. This may bo obtained as a very fi.no powder, which does not scorch foliage to the same extent as does ground quick lime, and which does nub deteriorate on keeping to the same extent as quick lime, and which in addition affords none of the trouble during storage occasioned by bursting bags and steaming heaps of lime. The best grades are rather expensive, hut some firms produce a suitable product at a quotation just under the current price of burnt lime. Quick lime, or slaked lime, should not bo mixed with or applied to the soil within several weeks of an application of .sulphate of ammonia, muriate of ammonia, or dung, since losses of valuable fertilising ingredients occur. Lime also must not be mixed with superphosphate or dissolved bones before application to the soil. GROUND CHALK AND LIMESTONE. Calcium carbonate, of which those materials consist, is much less soluble than lime, and since the smaller the bine of each particle the quicker the substance dissolves, it is apparent that fineness of division is an essential feature in order that the low solubility may be counteracted. Some time is required for any fragments larger than those in the powdered state to become dissolved in rain water, a fact recently commented on by a correspondent in this journal. These substances, unless in a very fin© powder, are practically valueless. In recent years, a great advance has been made in the process of grinding, and finely ground products are now obtainable. The benefits' derived from such samples should compare favourably in most_ cases with those derived from good lime, provided that about twice the quantity he applied. Samples should contain from 95 to 98 per cent, of calcium carbonate. PRECIRITATED CHALK. During certain industrial processes calcium carbonate is formed as a result of. chemical action and is thrown out of solution in the form of exceedingly small particles. The size of these particles is much smaller than may bo obtained by any process of grinding down the rock material, so that materials of this nature sold for agricultural purposes are the most satisfactory forms of chalk to use. r l hose substances are usually very pure, and should contain 97 to AS per cent, of calcium carbonate. The particles ofchalk are similar to those, left in the soil following the application of quick or slaked lime, hut it should ho remembered that if the particles aro actually precipitated from solution in the soil they will ho much better distributed than if they arc added as a powder and merely forked in. Roth forms of powdered chalk aro convenient to handle. REFUSE LIMES. Jn some districts there arc opportunities to obtain waste limes from factories. Those should be used with great care, since they may contain impurities which would be harmful in the soil, but many suitable refuse limes aro available from water works, sugar factories, and similar places at very low prices, and growers in sucb districts would bo well advised to avail themselves of the opportunity or obtabling a valuable soil improver at reduced cost. It is essential that those materials should bo finely ground and in a condition suitable-to handle. To summarise, it would appear (a) That quick lime or slaked lime, if of good quality, will give the best results. • . (b) That slaked lime is more convenient to handle than quick jinie, jiui is often more expensive, especially since half as much again as quick lime must be purchased and carried on rail and from the station to give equivalent results. ' . , (o) That chalk, if very finely ground and particularly if chemically precipitated, will give almost as good results as half the quantity ol: quick lime, but if the distance that the double quantity has to be brought is great the extra, cost of carnage will weigh the balance in favour of lime. Good quality chalk at a reasonable price, delivered, will .at all times be better than poor quality lime.

TULIPS The tulip holds a unique place in horticulture, and lias a rich .historical and literary interest apart from the beauty of the flower. It came from the East, and about 1550 suddenly became popular in Europe, supplanting the old and well-known plant' During the next hundred years mention of its beauty or different qualities . may be found in different publications, not only on horticulture, but on other writings. While known all over Europe, it became especially popular in par‘s of Holland and Flanders, and from about 1635 to 1G37 was an acute financial problem to the Government of Holland. Largo sums were paid for single bulbs, and fortunes were made and lost by speculators who bad no interest or love lor the tulip as a flower. The speculative period lasted lor about four years, and it is on record that a single bulb of Semper Augustus was sold for nearly £7OO. To save widespread disaster the Government interfered, and, although losses were heavy, the trade was brought back to a normal basis. Even although ' > people of Holland lost heavily at that time, they have made up their losses many times over since then, for to-day Holland is the centre of the world’s trade in tulips, and it is from there that most of the newer varieties are being sent out. Hundreds of acres of land are given over to growing the bulbs, and when overlooking th 1 land from any of the sand dunes the effect is kaleidoscopic, for tjic pattern changes as the flowers vary in colour or are removed. Tulips are very popular to-day in Europe, Eftghmd, and America, and there is every indication of a sudden increase of popularity in. Australia. Indeed, it seems as if the demand is greater than the supply, and will remain so for a lew years, either until stocks in the country increase sufficiently or the bulbs are imported in larger numbers than they-have been in the past. A flue collection of tulips, the property; of Mr Hugh Browne, a tulip enthusiast, was recently seen at Hcalcsvillo, in the hills, between two and three thousand feet nbovesea level (says the ‘ Australasian ’). The property consists of 10 acres, with an acre and n-half under tulips. It slopes to the west and is fairly open to weather conditions on the south and west, but protected by the rise of the laud and the native timber on the north and east side. This year Mr Browne intends planting Cupressus Lambertiana along bis southern and western boundary, to obtain further shelter. When the hedge attains a height of 20-25 ft lie. intends to grow the dark coloured varieties in’ its shade, and so overcome the tendency for bleaching of these colours by sunlight. < . The soil is a light, black loam, and js at least Bft, in depth. It is also well drained, making ideal conditions for tho growth of the tulips. Bracken and hazel are growing on the uncleared land, and this year the bracken lias been cleared from a further area, which will be gradually brought into cultivation as the stock of tulips increases. The use of lime or artificial fertilisers is not found necessary, but Mr Browne strongly advocates the use of lime in soils where the natural conditions are not so good. . The tulips were seen in mid-October, when the cottage and Darwin vanities wore in bloom, and the effect was spectacular and gay, with the open blooms turned to tho west, following the course of tho setting sun. There are 250 varieties and II species in tho collection. Every shade of colour was seen among the flowers except blue. When Dame Nellie Melba visited the garden last season the stately Darwin tulip. Bronze Queen, was her favourite. Tho average height of tho tall-growing Darwins is 2ft Gin, but this season, owing to the lack of rain in July, growth was shorter, although the size of blooms was up to tho average. Mr Browne judges time ho'has been getting a satisfactory increase from his bulbs. The original bulb Replaces itself, and two offsets are produced each year Among the species in the collection arc T. Glusiana, Didieri, Kaufmanniann, Sprengori, linifolia, Oculus-splis. Tuborgen, praestans, acuminata, and Eichleri Tulipa Kanfmanniana is a very attractive flower, which should bo better known. It is called tho Water Lily Tulip, from .bo shape of the blooms. The colours are brilliant white, yellow, and red, and the flowers unfurl after tho fashion of a water lily. One of its charms lies in its dwarf habit. It reaches about Gin in height, and the flowers stand out from ( the foliage. Some species are early and some late, but this was one of the few species in bloom when the garden was seen. T. Sprengeri is supposed to bo one of tho latest species added to the list, and was introduced to Europe by Dammarin and Co.. Naples, in 1894, but its native habitat is unknown. T. Acuminata has a very open perianth, light'yellow splotched with red lines, and is supposed to be a native of Turkey. T. Glusiana is widely spread in Europe and ranges from Portugal, through tho Mediterranean to Greece and Persia. Mr Browne’s methods of handling newJy-imported bulbs and storing after lifting will interest tulip growers. Imported bulbs are usually landed about 'the third week in December, and are planted at once. They are allowed to grow -without interference, and some will produce flowers. At the end of twelve months they are lifted andithen treated in the same way as ordinary st6ck. These are planted Gin to 9in in depth in April. After planting the ground is made firm over the the bulb by pressure from the foot. No further attention is given until August, when the weeds, between the rows are turned, under with a, shallow scoop of a shovel. In December the bulbs are lifted. If any have still retained green leaves these are cut off. Before storing they are dried in an airy position, but not"in direct sunlight. Flowers of sulphur is placed, near and the bulbs to ward off fungus diseases. From December until April they are stored in a dark room, provided with a red light, and in April they arc again ready for planting.