WOMAN’S WORLD

Evening Star, Issue 19062, 3 October 1925, Page 20

WOMAN’S WORLD

[By DIANA.]

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. “ Knitter ” wishes to hare directions for knitting (not crocheting) a Scotch Tam o’ Shauter. Will readers who can help please send to “Diana” tho required information ? “ If.”—Thank you for tho verses, which will appear in the column soon. “Mrs G.” —It is quite easy to wash your Madras curtains. Make a good lather, with plenty of warm water, and shake tho curtains in. Change tho water, make a fresh lather, and continue till tho dirt is all out. Rinse well in at least two waters, and, if you like, you can use a very thin cornflour starch, as thin as possible. Do not wring the curtains, but squeeze them w'ith’tho hands, then lay them out on a sheet (do not hang them on a line, or they will lose their shape) to dry. “ Render ” (Auckland). —Thank you for tho information about powdered skim milk. For tho benefit of others I pass on what you say. It can be obtained at the Farmers’ Union Trading Company, Hobson street, _ Auckland, Anchor brand, Is 4d per lb tin, containing sufficient powder to make eight pints of milk. “Mrs O.J.D.” —Pee next Saturday's paper. SOCIAL AND PERSONAL. Mrs Marshal] Macdonald is spending a few days at Tcimika. Mrs Black has loft town for a few weeks. Mrs Baker is back from a holiday in Christchurch. Miss Ailsa Barton, of Fenthcrston, is doing well ns a ’cellist in London, and has just gained her diploma from tho R.C.'M Tho Hon. Mrs Pitt-Rivers, daughter of Lord and Lady Forster, has joined the Dion Boucicuult Company, having succumbed, like so many others of distinguished families, to tho lure of tho footlights. Tho engagement is announced of Miss May Turner, youngest daughter of Mrs and tho lato Mr Allen Turner, to Mr Frederick Carr, of Dunedin, and lato of Napier. , On Wednesday afternoon Miss Stella Murray, tho famous contralto, entertained a fow friends at tho Tudor Hall, the guests being Mcsdames Callaway, Roberts, Hudson, Halsted, Scherek, and Primmer, Misses Ida White and Hazlett. Miss Murray, like most visitors from afar, was particularly impressed with tho beauty of this fmo hall. Miss Ida White on Thursday morning gave a very pleasant little party for Miss Stella Moore, when among tho guests present were Mesdames Thompson, Dunlop, Jack, Evans, Thos. Brown, Lislo (Wellington), Hudson, and Lambert, Misses Rule (2), Whitelaw, and E. Wilkinson. Sirs Hoben (nee Crichton Trario), at one time well known in Palmerston North on the staff of tho 1 Manawatn Daily Times,’ now runs a restaurant in London, anti was recently fined 1180 for not stamping waitresses’ insurance cards. The Hospital Guild last week held its last meeting lor tho year. Ten meetings were held, one loss than usual, owing to Mr Massey’s funeral. Tho average attendance was forty-two, and as all are ardent workers tho number of garments made was very largo, totalling to nearly 300. Moat of these go to the Warrington Convalescent Home, but some are sent to the babies and children at the hospital here. Tho guild will resume work on the second Thursday after Easter.

England when she returns. Those of us who know that part of England will know that the choral festivals are among the great events of the musical world, and it is only the best who can over hope for solo work there. About twenty years ago Birmingham still had an old member in its chorus who had actually ■ been under Mendelssohn. Needless to say, ho was treated with signal honor, as carrying on tho great tradition. So that evidently Miss Stella Murray "has arrived.” .. WEDDING. A very quiet but pretty wedding took place at Gisborne on August 34 between Kate, sixth daughter of Airs J. Al.'Konrie, Gisborne, and Aired Norman Slater, M. 8., C.H.8., vonngest son of Mr and Airs T. W. Slater, Epsom, Auckland (late of .Dunedin). The Rev. Air Hodgson officiated. The bride, who was given away by her brother-in-law, Air S. Newman, looked charming in a white georgette frock handsomely embroidered with silver beads. She wore a veil of white tulle fastened with a coronet of orange blossoms, and carried a bouquet of hyacinths and roses. Tho bridesmaids were Miss Edith Gambrill, wild wore pastel green georgette trimmed with autumn-tinted flowers, and Atiss Joan At'Kenzic, wearing a’ maize-colored georgette frock similarly trimmed, both carrying posies to match. After the ceremony a reception was held at the home of tho bride. Miss Ann AUKenzio, wearing a beaded green frock, received tiro guests. Airs Slater, mother of the bridegroom, wore a brown taffeta frock trimmed with lace. Dr and Airs Slater left by car later in the evening for their homo in Otaki. _____ LADIES’ HOCKEY: PRESENTATION OF CUPS. A very happy gathering of upwards of 100 hockey'players (senior, junior, and secondary schools), ex-players, with representatives Irom tho Hockey Hoforees’ Association and Aleu’s Hockey Association, was hold on Tuesday evening in the Women’s Club room. Proceedings were opened by tho singing of tho National Anthem, alter which ft short musical programme was rendered. Bongs were sung by Airs ,R. Hudson, Airs S, Wilson, and Alias L. Gray! musical monologue by Aliss M. La Bruuj and a recitation by Miss Meadows. All were heartily encored. Airs W. Mason acted ns accompanist. The ceremony of tho presentation of cups by the president of the Otago Ladies’ Hockey Association, _ Mrs It. Hudson, then took placo. Before making the presentations, Airs Hudson briefly addressed those gathered. Bho said she must congratulate the teams on their play during tho 1925 season. Cortninlv they had been handicapped by tho "weather (live Saturdays’ play having to bo postponed), but in spite of this they had made wonderful progress this year. She especially congratulated tho Otago representative team on their piny against Central and against Southland. Tho visit of tho Otago team through Central last year, and tho return visit this year, have boon tho means of creating greater interest throughout Central Otago, and greatly improved hockey is tho result. It was Eiiso groat achievement on the part of tho Otago team to draw with Southland, tho champion team of the dominion, and oven greater things would bo looked for next season. Gi oat strides had also been in ado in hockey in North Otago, and play had been very active in South Otago. It was pointed out what great benefit could be derived from outdoor sport such as hockey, from the point of view of health and tho making of character, and it was hoped that as time went on Otago would be noted for its keenness in sport on tho ladies’ hockey fields. In speaking of those who had helped the lackey cause during the season, Airs Hudson specially' mentioned Air P. W. Khacklock, who. she remarked, should bo called the hockey girls’ friend. The players owed to him a special debt of gratitude for all he had done for them this season in the way of entertaining, etc., and it was through him that they held their meeting that night in such a comfortable room and were served with supper. The referees had also worked hard and well, and Airs Hudson voiced the opinion of all players when she thanked them for their services during the season. Apologies for absence wore received from Air G. A. Nelson. Air J. Harris, Mr J. Martyn, and Air H. J. Smith. The captains of tho winning teams were then called upon to receive Hhe cups on behalf of their teams. Tho winners wore as follows;—A grade competition, Otago; B grade competition, Technical Old Girls; C grade competition, Columba; soven-a-side tournament—A grade, University (Sliacklock Cup); B grade, Alexandra D.H.S. (Ritchie Gnp). Airs Hudson apologised for iho absence of Airs A. Barnett, and, in ber stead, presented Aliss Lo Brim, of the Alomona Club, with Airs Barnett’s prize for having sold the most tickets for the recent concert hold in aid of tlie women’s rest room. Mrs G. A. Nelson (vice-president) said she was glad to see so many of the secondary’ school hockey players present, which augured well for tbo future of hockey in Otago, and urged them to continue playing, oven although their school career may be at an end. She then voiced the feelings of all present when she spoke of tho sincere thanks due to their president, Mrs Hudson. Airs Hudson was one wha had worked behind the scones, and during this season, as in past seasons, had done an immense amount in the interests of hockey. Three ringing cneers v/ere then given for Mrs Hudson, and the singing of “Eor she’s a jolly good fellow.” The secretary also presented her with a pretty’ bouquet. Airs Hudson thanked the players for their tokens of appreciation. Before a dainty supper was partaken of an amusing competition was held, Aliss Elsie Logan being tho winner. During the competition Mrs Atason rendered favorite airs on the piano. After supper Air D. AVoodfiekl (of the Men’s Hockey Association) informed the players of tho visit of an Indian officers’ team early next year. All arrangements for a match against Otago during the Exhibition period had been practically settled, and there was in view a hope that the Ladies’ Association would arrange for a match the same day as a curtain-raiser, the likely teams being Otago and Southland. The matches would take place on the Exhibition snorts ground. Mr Wood field assured tho Ladies’ Association that tho Men's Association were only too willing to assist them in any/ way during tho hockey season. Tho singing of the National Anthem brought tho happy meeting to a close, and thus brings to a finish thp hockejp season in Dunedin.

Mrs Hornibrook (ncc Etfie Rout, of Christchurch) has figured in London papers lately by reason of the political meeting she engineered, of extreme Labor views, so much so that she was howled clown, but insisted on getting a hearing. At one time she was a shorthand writer on parliamentary committees, and did a good deal of other writing. Among the successful artists showing at the annual exhibition at_ tho Wellington Art Gallery are Mina Arndt (Mrs Manoy), with .portraits and still life; Mrs Howard Tripp, with a fine portrait of Arch. F. Nicoll; Miss Lynch (now Sister Mary Lawrence of the Convent of Mercy), with a figure study entitled ‘ Dorothy ’; Mrs Kelly, also with portraits including that of her husband, Cecil Kelly; Mrs Tripe; Mrs Grace Butler, with some fine landscape pieces; Mrs Robison, with studies of Chinese children; and Miss Richmond. Miss Torrance has returned to Bluff after a short visit to Dunedin. Happy Miss Murray! Young, goodlooking, with a vivid personality and immense vitality—these are what struck one most at the reception given to her on Thursday afternoon at the Women’s Club, the room being weli tilled with music enthusiasts. Miss Stella Murray stands ns an outstanding example of tho opportunity that competitions give to young singers. Up till the ago of eighteen Miss Murray had had volume of voice, with no notion of singing. Indeed, as she humorously declared : “ I was generally scolded for tho noise I made, and put Out of tho singing class.” One day, when playing tennis, she gave a feminine shriek of such power that a well-known singer looked startled, and asked if the young girl sang. Upon receiving a negative reply the lady suggested a trial song—no good—and then finally a scale, which was not much more successful. However, three months’ perseverance ended in an attempt at tho competitions, with enough reward to justify further study. And to cut a story short, Miss Stella Murray managed to find her way to London, ■ where the usual ups-and-downs of a student’s life awaited her, so that one day she would bo singing at a mansion where money flowed like water, and the next she would be with her impecunious student friends, wondering where the next meal would come from. Now those days are happily past, and Miss Stella Murray ranks as one of the great contraltos. Indeed, her fame is great enough for her to have sung before many Royalties, including nearly all our own Royal Family, as well as the Queen of Norway and the Queen of Spain. “Weren’t you frightfully nervous?” I asked her. “No,” she replied, “ not more than I am at any concert. And after the performance they were all so nice; at tea they chatted as informally as possible.” “Did you find them musical?” “Well, up to a certain point, yes; but tho real musician of tho family was King Edward VII. He had rally a fine ear. and was most keen on operas and high-class music.” “Do you ever of the operatic stage?” “No, my aim is to keen on with oratorio and concert singing.” And it is in these tivo channels that her bookings are already so heavy, including ‘ The Messiah ’ in Sydney next Christmas, and jjthors ju thq great northern, towns in

Eoporfca of (social function* will be welcomed for this column. “ Diana ’* will also answer all reasonable qncs* tiona relating to tho home, cookery, domestic science, and any topic of interest 'to ber sex. But each letter or tepori must bear tho writer’* name and address as a guarantee of genuineness, and questions that do not permit of a puhlkt wgdy cannot bo answered. Questions should bo concisely put and the writer’s noro do plume clearly written.

WEDNESDAY’S BIG SPECTACLE. “ Spectacular ” was exactly the word to use iu connection with the tremendous concourse of people that gathered together at the Festival Hall on Wednesday night. Long before the opening hundreds of motors and people were doing their best to get in, and had it not been for the excellent arrangements made and carried out with regard to the traffic a- congestion might easily have boon the unpleasant result. As it was, everything wont oft smoothly, and soon the enormous hall w f as tilled with a crowd eager to enjoy the fun and to enter into tho carnival spirit, and it was not long before the fine dancing floor was filled with enthusiastic lollowers of Terpsichore. It is estimated that very nearly 2,000 people wore present. It is certain that it was the largest dancing crowd ever known in Dunedin. Tho sight of hundreds of men and women (a largo number in fancy dress), the galleries filled all round, and even the platform with hardly a, vacant seat, was one never to be forgotten, and over all one lelt that the happiness of success was present. Business firms, Exhibition directors, and indeed all who were approached showed themselves in sympathy with this effort to augment the funds of the ivomcn's section, and the executive offers its heartfelt thanks to all who so kindly helped to make this, an almost unprecedented success. One cannot, of course, mention all; hut as tho mvdsic played such an important part throughout tho whole evening special thanks are given to the three bands, who gave their services Iree—tho Kaikorai, Gordon’s, and Hint's. Tiie first item was also one of the most charming—an old-timo gavotte, exquisitely done by eight young indies (specially coached by Mr Wauchop), who might have stepped out Iroin a picture, with their little frilled trousers showing beneath the handsome hooped wliito sal in skirts. A few general danees gave the actors o): the next item time to get ready. Everyone was on tiptoe with expectation to see the posters, in which over .100 firms participated. In the event of any future such pageant taking place it might bo as well to have at least two to each poster ns having a rather more striking oflcct; one person hurriedly and nervously passing along detracts irom the solemnity'of tho occasion, hirst came the Wentworth Tea Booms, an original and pretty piece of work, with the table all ready laid for luncheon. Then followed the Savoy Tea, Booms, the Phoenix Insurance Company, Scott and Wilsons blinds, Willys-Kiiight cars, Wight furnishings, Brown, Ewing’s (with a charming midinetto girl and gold-and-black hat boxes), Hudson’s chocolates (remarkable for tho particularly handsome train), Drcaver’s, fecoulhir and Chisholm, Campbell’s hosiery (with two original costumes made entirely of silk stockings in stripes), Penrose, Gold Loaf Tea (whoso handsome' canister must have been an uncomfortable dress), Ingiis, Bultenvorth Bros, (a very handsome pair with live gold globes), Strand Tea Booms (with an appropriate and delightful Cupid and a wedding cake), Tho Bristol, Bell Tea, Excelsior motor cycles, Wilkie and Co. (an original idea, that of a pen and ink bottle), Lownoy’s chocolates. _ the ‘Evening Star’ and ‘Daily Times,’ Anti-Acido, Star cords and tyres, Kempthorno and P.rosscr (with a delightful can de Cologne costume), Sugar's (an appropriate orange), Phoenix (four people representing a cracker, oatmeal, biscuits, and very good, too), Neill (with an excellent pair in the

shape of a camera and a film), Wright’s biscuits, M'Lean (tailors), Indian Boot pills, Bols, Kitt’s leathers, Speedon motor spirit, Westport coal (with five lumps of coal and a little hot language), Bon Ami, Pascall’s confectionery,Golden Shred marmalade (a pretty costume in lemon and orange), Boslyn Woollen Mills, ice creams, Barton and Trongrove’s, Rugby motors, ‘‘Black and White,” Barth Electric Supplies (with original costumes of electric lights and wireless set), Stewart’s confectionery, Thomson’s lemonade (a unique bottle representation), Mooney, “Victory” soap, D.S.A., Anderson s Bakery (with amusing dresses of loaves and dough) State Express cigarettes, Naylor’s, Whitcombe and Tombs, Methven, Thompson and_ Sons, Warded, Burt (with its diverting bath, shower, and califont complete), Kodak Company, Milford Track and the Government Tourist Department (most realistic, especially the eager perusal of the guide book and map), Begg’s gramophones, Barnett’s (with the well-known rachorscs). The judges (Captain Graham, Captain Moore, and Mr Marsh) had a difficult task, and eventually decided in favor of Penrose s, Thomson’s lemonade, and Kompthorne, Prosser’s 4WO perfume, with the following honorable mentions: Brow n, Ewinma, Barth’s, Westport coal, Aeill, Anderson, Willys-Knight, and Barton and Trcngrovc. _ Later in the evening the vast tJiiong was treated to a mannequin show that appealed specially to the feminine portion, though, indeed, the extraordinary beauty of the costumes displayed by the mannequins on behalf of Arthur Barnett and Campbell must have appealed to anyone with a grain of artistic appreciation in him. An amusing interlude was that of the goose that laid the golden eggs, which would have been shown to much greater advantage on the stage. Then came the finely-got-np Mali Jongg set, and later a Scottish reel by Miss May Thorn (an Irish girl who last year won the all-Scottish championship, and came up specially from Mataura to perform). Much disappointment was felt that owing to unavoidable circumstances the Scotch reel got np by the girls at Boss and Glendiiiing’s was not performed. Then came the judging for various fancy dress prizes (the donors of various prizes being Lady Ferguson, Mesdamcs Barnett, Matheson, Sutherland Boss, Primmer, Messrs Allan Young, IVhitcombe, and Hudson), with the Billowing result -.—Paper: Most artistic--Lady’s, a beautiful dainty lavender frock; gentleman’s; pierrot in blue and yellow. Most original---Lady’s, a butterfly; Denniston’s special prize, a pierre fete in blue and yellow'. Other material: Most artistic—Lady’s, Indian princess in red and white; gentleman’s, Indian prince in red and white. During the evening Mr Mitchell gave a most acceptable song, showing that the acoustic qualities of the hall are good. Altogether anyone who helped in this great undertaking should feel mightily pleased, and look on it as am augury for the success of the whole. Exhibition. ARE SKIRTS DOOMED? Authorities on the intricate subject of feminine fashions arc saying now' (writes our London correspondent) that skirts are doomed, and that before another five years are gone women generally will bo wearing trousers and knickerbockers. They base their prophecy on a concetration of modern symptoms, of which the Eton shingle, lawn tennis trousers, ski-ing knickers, riding breeches, cycling knickers, and now' shooting knickers arc just a few examples. Though fashion changes rapidly so far as feminine styles and vogues are concerned, it never moves backwards when it stands for emancipation. Crinolines bad to go. Skirts will just as surely have to go, too, they say. And then, since certainly women will never be content with present-day male “ cylinders.” will men’s trousers compote with the fancy ornamental designs women will adopt? Oxford trousers are a prophecy—perhaps.

ODDS AND ENDS,. I ;*A drawer that sticks is a frequent annoyance in wet weather. In an emergency rub the aides with a piece of soap - or wax, and you will get good results. A stale loaf can be made as fresh ns new if wrapped in a damp cloth for a couple of minutes and'then placed in the oven for half an hour. To prevent a door banging back against a wall fasten a rubber heel pad on to the floor at such a distance from the wall as to break the force of the jar. The white marks on an oak table, paused by putting hot plates down without a mat. to take the heat, can be removed easily and quickly by rubbing boiled linseed' oil into them. To. prevent sausages bursting dip them in boiling water before frying. _ Do not put away for any length of time linen that has been starched. It is apt to crack. Rinse the articles free from starch, dry, and fold in blue paper. The latter keeps them from turning yellow. The flavor of green peas which are getting a little old is much improved by the addition of a teaspoonlnl of sugar to about one quart of water. Dried green peas—which require thorough soaking—are also improved by the addition of sugar. Should the small weights of your kitchen scales bo lost or mislaid, the following homely weights come in very handy:—Jd measures lin in diameter, -Id measures one-tenth of a foot, half a crown weighs >|oz, 3d weighs loz, thirteen pennies weigh ilb.

WOHAtTS WORLD 111 LONDON

(Written by Ovnihia, for the 'Evening Star.’] It was amusing to watch the smart London ladies at Cowes this week in their sweaters and white serge pleated skirts arriving and departing at the various lauding stages. It seems to go on all day, and the village of yachts anchored in the roads have people coming and going at all hours. Like all other outdoor pastimes, Cowes regatta needs sunshine, and then it is t]ie most fascinating place in all the world. The ‘ ‘ shoo-shoo ’ ’ of the little motor launches is part and parcel of that quaint little Isle of Wight town, with ■its narrow crooked streets, clustering houses, and (during regatta week) crowds of smart aristocratic folk. Not a room is to be had at Cowes for love or money during that period, and people do not mind what they pay either. Its the home of the yachtsman, and -you see him there in all his glory, spotless flannels, blue reefer coat, and yachting cap. As in other sports, women have taken seriously to yacht racing, and some of our prettiest girls j are seen grasping the tiller as the halfI raters race through the foamy wnve- ! lots. This style of craft is much fav- | ored by the ladies, and one race is for | them entirely. I think of all the pic--1 turesqne sights it is to see the “ Red Wings ” racing on a clear breezy day when the sea is crisp and buoyant; the color of their wings is one moment blood red and the next misty brown till lost in hazy blue spray. The Red Wings belong to a club of that name, and Cowes is never held without their competing. People wait for hours to see Queen Mary come ashore from the Victoria and Albert, which stands out like a giant towering above and dwarfing all the other craft, however imposing. Her Majesty dearly loves to prowl about in the antique shops, which abound in the town, and she loves also to be alone on these errands with just her lady-in-waiting, and many are the lovely things picked up. The Queen is a fine judge of antiques, nob only furniture, but pictures, bric-a-brac, jewels, and all sorts of objots d.’art, which arc often given as presents to friends. I was on the yacht next to the Royal yacht, and we always knew when the King or Queen was expected, as the Royal footmen in scarlet and white would appear first and wait by the side of the launch. Then the King or Queen would jjuietly descend and stop into the waiting boat with its comfortable hood and bright brasses, and away to the shore it would go, dashing the spray all round, but not a drop would get on to the occupants, so cleverly were the hoods arranged. Then night would wrap its purple mantle around, and one by one the lights on shore would begin to twinkle and shine on the various craft, and the glowing portholes show long lines of illumination with such a beautiful effect, the band on the Royal yacht and guard ship sounding like fairy music under the groat copper moon, the lilt of a waltz and fox trot being borne across the waters. Gay parties, smartly garbed, come shooting out from the big craft to dine or dance ashore, and the merry laugh and light-hearted chatter and chaff pleasantly resound from here and there. Such is Cowes during the wonderful August week, when the King sails his groat white-winged cutter Britannia. How these “ cracks ” rush by like huge birds, with a tear and a rustle almost overpowering. They cut their way through the blue waters with a majesty indescribable, and there is something so curiously fascinating about the whole thing that makes life so delightful and entirely enjoyable. This year the King and Queen stayed on board till the Monday following, so it prolonged things, and the social world stayed on longer before flitting over to Deauville or similar Continental watering places. DP NORTH.

You would hardly credit the number of women sportsmen, to-day, and for the 12th they have gone north in bigger numbers thun ever. It must be the sport-loving instinct in the blood that these charming daughters of Eve are no longer willing to be mere spectators as their grandmothers were, mining the guns for lunch. Now they stolidly tramp with the menfolk over moor and hill, carrying their own gnus and u dressing - the part in much smarter fashion than ever. The very newest idea in sports attire is the knicker skirt, which I can truthfully say has gone to Scotland in hundreds. It appears to look like the ordinary wrap skirt, but on examination it discloses the fact that the straight panels hide the roomy plus fours beneath! it will he the rage for golf on account ot its simplicity and comfort, and a better design to meet the sportswoman requirements has not yet been hit upon. With it an up-to-date style of Norfolk coat is de nguenr, “And very nice, too,” was the remark a man of my acquaintance made, when asked his opinion. I may here mention foi the benefit of any of yon who go in for sport down under that tor warmth a loner smart overcoat is worn with rather In if skirts, coming to the hem of the skirt, and brown and green are popular colors, with brilliantly gay and long-sleeved jumpers, with high polo collars The suede hats have taken the place of felt ones, but the brogues and gaiters or high-laced boots are still the most comfortable and useful style of footwear, and this is how woman equips herself for the famous “ 12th. THE COMING MODES.

I know that all of you who have to ho practical with regard to your wardrobe will be glad to hear that navy blue is returning to favor once more. Show mo any color more serviceable or more generally becoming. In thick or thin materials it wants some sort of a “ brightener,” I know, and none is better suited than red; quite le dernier cri is a dark blue suit with apple green collar and cu& 4 Test and bat ea suite.

Startling, you’ll say—very; but try it and see how pleased you’ll be with yourself. Then new little fads include soutache braidings and clever slashings to show a second color beneath, and rows of buttons, bolero effects, and under sleeves from below to waist, often in contrasting shades of georgette, are very distinctive. Quite the latest for hats as centre ornaments are the round brooches of the 1830 stylo. The bar so long beloved of all of us has given way to clusters and jewelled brooches, buckles, and bows, all smartly fixed on upturned brims. These do givo a very attractive finish, but wo are all rather tired of this shape, as it is apt to get monotonous; but what will supersede it is the question. CHEERY MACHS. The girl of to-day is nothing if not cheery in the rain, and all the new macks are very bright in color. • They are the Rayon mackintoshes, and are in reality artificial silk with a rubber lining. I’ve seen charming ones in mauve, flame color, rust, red shot with a softer tone, A wet race meeting brings them out by the dozen, and they are the only thing which enlivened the otherwise drab landscape at Goodwood. I know you in your sun-kissod land have very little need for them, but here in rainy England no one is ever safe. Really, the umbrella manufacturers and mackintosh makers ought to be the most prosperous people in Great Britain, so it’s an ill-wind that blows nobody any good. Other attractive notions of which I have been making the acquaintance are delightful velvet vanity bags. If you wish to be in fashion’s very first flight, have a velvet bag; but be sure it is of some striking color like canary, jassamine yellow, cherry, bright jade, or cornflower blue. They are generally presented in the long envolopo shape known _as the “pochette,” and decorated with gold or silver initials, or even jewelled initials are often seen. A SIGN OP AUTUMN. I’ve just attended the first night of the promenade concerts at the Queen’s Hall, They are an institution without ■which London would not bo London in the autumn, and it was a sure sign that that season is fast approaching. The audience always interests me, and this time it amused me, for there wore, it seemed to me, the same familiar people and faces, all the old types on either side of mo. The old ladies who looked as though they had stepped out of the Ark, the girl students with their care-losslv-dono hair, the young Byroniclooklng men; hut what was new this season were those abominable Oxford bags. Why cannot someone introduce a new fashion and so benefit the young men of to-day, who are really wanting in brains, I think, to wear such atrocities. The music was excellent, Sir Henry Woods (wonderful and most capable of conductors) leading his instrumentalists through a maze of intricacies with such eas0 j and abandon. We get more high-brow in our music at these celebrated shows. Time was when jaunty airs and cornet solos brought thunders of applause; but to-day it is such great masters as Bach which rouse enthusiasm and secure the inevitable encore. The “ proms. ” are part of London life, yet totally different from ■what they used to bo.

THE SEXES AS FARTHERS

feminine emancipation makes for MAN'S HAPPINESS [By A. M. Thompson, in the ‘ Sunday Chronicle.’] A few weeks ago, in an article on ‘Woman’s Crowning Job ot Motlierhood,’ I questioned whether modern girls are not losing more than they gain by their increased competition with men in the industrial market. Over a million of them flocked to the factories during the war, and those who have been able to stick to their jobs have refused to go back to their former staple business of housework. The result is that in the present trade slump they hinder the employment or men, they distress overburdened housewives by creating a scarcity of domestic helps, and they incidentally reduce their own chances of marriage. Prom every point of view, national and individual, that is bad. Potential motherhood is primarily what girls are for. And whilst a man may stand all day at a machine without affecting his power of paternity, a girl who does it has sold something which not all her increased wages could pay for—she has sold some part of the life and strength of her possible babies. . As Margaret Bondfield has wisely said: “The woman who fulfils the special function of her sex, who builds up the family life round her, who recognises the need of bringing to the service of the home every pew development of science, who realises that her job is to create an environment tor everv child, and such an influence, particularly for the, potential fathers of the world, as would raise the whole or civilisation to a higher plane, that woman is doing the highest work in the world.” Up to this point we can all agree. But here comes Mr Wyatt Tilby with much more questionable addenda. He seems to regard the scarcity of domestic helps as a permanent result of the triumphal advance of woman.” I don’t. He apparently thinks that we are short of “skivvies” because 11 feminine emancipntion ” lins loci women to clamor for admission at the doors of Parliament, of the law courts, and of the British Medical Association. Whereunto I cheerily reply. "Tut, tut.” It is true that the feminists are no more keen to resurrect Dick Swivellor’s Marchioness than to restore Mrs Gamp. It may be that they would like' to transmogrify the sort or “slavey” that Louie Freear used to represent on the stage into a capable, efficient, and dignified apprentice to her natural trade of motherhood. BEGINNING OP ROMANCE.

When they have done that, and when industrial conditions have recovered from the industrial dislocation of the war, I pray and believe that there will ho a plentiful supply of mco, clean, bright girls who have boon taught in their schools to make a decent cup of tea without tannin, to cook a frugal dinner without sending father to the chemist’s for_ pills; and to dress baby without sticking pins in it. But this desirable aim is only an accidental side issue of the feminist “ advance,” and is due chiefly to the war. What wo term the “ emancipation ” of women is a much larger and much older ’ growth. It began when the Homans evolved their new civilising idea of a marriage contract between man and woman as a substitute for the former barbaric practice of a selling bargain betiveen father and son-in-law. This was the beginning of romance. It was also the beginning of woman’s recognition as a partner instead of a chattel of man. The revolutionary Homan conception took a long time to grow, but it grew. Through the Middle Ages -women were the sometimes adored but still despised drudges of men. The church taught them, that they were a mere afterthought of creation, provided for the relief of man’s boredom; that they were the cause of all evil; that their motherhood was a curse; that their sex was uncleanliness. Throughout the Christian countries, in the Middle Ages, she -was sold in the shambles, silenced before her ecclesiastical and marital law-givers, reduced to a drudge and a pauper. Compare the present influence of women in the State with the medieval conception, and we get an idea of what the advance has meant. Would any sceptic question the social and economic advantage of women’s “ emancipation ” from that old standard of slavery and degradation? Emancipation has meant emergence

from physical and moral serfdom. It has meant gradual increase of knowledge, which implies increased fitness to organise a “homo” and to bring up children. It has meant the cleansing of sex from ignorant shame, and the raising of women to increase men’s happiness by becoming their companions in moral freedom and equality. For these effects of -women's emancipation every man has cause to be profoundly grateful. The feminists are right to seek an end of the lisping, shrinking, simpering, smirking, blushing, artfully-design-ing, prettily-lying little minx, who fainted at sight of a mouse, pretended to be shocked by the simplest facts of life, and peppered up keen as mustard at the chance of a breach of promise. The modern girl 'who has had purpose, patience, and perseverance enough to pass through a college course will have formed habits of thought and action -which make her a fitter helpmeet for her husband, a wiser counsellor to her chidlren, a cleverer organiser of home comforts than the Gorman poet’s “well-conducted person cutting bread and butter,” who regarded the little tin god with the pipe in his mouth-as the pure Sir Oracle wijb able authority over the business of the nation and every problem demanding brains. We have not yet attained to a perfect readjustment of the sox handicap. The advance in, recent years has been rather rapid, and it may be that some of our girls, too suddenly emerging from the swaddling clothes of former repression into low-necked blouses, short skirts, and parliamentary possibilities, are occasionally inclined to stop over themselves. It may be that madam too suddenly wants to become Adam and sometimes wants to sing bass. It may be that in some cases she ceases to be a lady, and cannot quite manage to be a gentleman. In those exceptional instances feminine emancipation may err on the side of excess. But, on the whole, the balance Is decidedly on the side of gain—especially for men.

MISS HELEN GLADSTONE BEAD

Miss Helen Gladstone, the youngest daughter of the Right Hon. William Ewart Gladstone, has just died at Hawarden at the age of seventy-six. For twenty years, from 1877 to 1897, she was a resident member of Newnham College, Cambridge, first as a student, then as secretary to Mrs Henry Sidgwiclc, who was at that time viceprincipal in charge of a hall of residence, and later ns vice-principal in succession to Mrs Sidgwick. Miss Gladstone held this post for fifteen years. She loft Newnham College in 1897, when her presence at home became important owing to the advanced ago of both her parents, and remained with her family till Mrs Gladstone’s death in 1900. Soon after this event she accepted the wardenship of the Women’s University Settlement in Southwark. She filled that post till 1900, when she retired from the wardenship. but continued to work In close connection with the settlement, living in tlio neighborhood and helping with those brandies of the work in which she felt a special tnferest. In 1910 she left London and established herself in a house which she had built near her old home at Hawarden. After settling there she gave ranch of her time to service on committees concerned with education in her district. In addition, she took the keenest interest in tlie fortunes and activities of the Church of Wales. Miss Gladstone, it has been said ; impressed all who knew her by her vigorous personality. Her generosity of character, her sound sense ami judgment, together with her business capacity, good spirits, and geniality, wore of high value to the college for which dm worked so long and to which she continued always to ho devoted, and made her help most welcome in the various enterprises with which she was connected at different times.