CURIOSITIES OF COTTON

Evening Star, Issue 18255, 20 April 1923, Page 10

CURIOSITIES OF COTTON

AN ISLAND CROP IN 1788. OLD ENGLISH RIVALRY WITH WOOL. In view of the present interest in cotton growing in Australia, it may bo recalled (says the Melbourne 1 Argus ’) that Captain Philip Gidley King, afterwards Governor of New South Wales, grew cotton on Norfolk Island as long ago ns 1788 or thereabouts. King was sent to tho island by Phillip soon after his arrival in January, 1788, with the first fleet. He was to form a settlement, and had the post of commandant.

King’s interest in cotton continued, and when lie was back, in New South Wales as Governor, after voyages to England, he made this report, dated December 31, 1801, to the British authorities: “Respecting cotton, much seed has been sown here, both from the Bahamas and the Isle of Bourbon. Experience has proved that it will not do here, but there can be no doubt of its succeeding farther to the northward if a harbor and access to it can be found within and through tho Labyrinth from tho latitude of 20dcg to Capo lork." The Labyrinth was the name given by Captain Cook to the part of the coast lying within tho Barrier Reef between Capes Weymouth and York, along which ho coasted after passing through Providential Channel. King added that in the course of the next summer two of the colonial vessels, if they could he spared, would be sent to explore the coast and tho openings of the Labyrinth, if that should not he an object of the researches of Captain Flinders. Should suitable conditions be found, added King, a settlement might be formed for the express purpose of cultivating cotton and indigo, in addition to mai/o for the subsistence of men and women sent there from England. In the course_ of time, ’nc considered, such an establishment might prove highly productive and beneficial, as the cotton might be advantageously sold in China, and the indigo in Europe. Probably success would he attained by giving Ihc leadership to a proper person sent from England —“a man of activity both of mind and body, acquainted with the cultivation and manufacturing of those articles, and who has been sufficiently habituated to (ho manners of the better sort of mankind to command and enforce obedience and respect.” STRANGE LAW OF CHARLES IT. There had not been a general welcome for cotton in England until the later part of the eighteenth century—not long before King wrote. In earlier limes men employed in the woollen trade considered that the encouragement of cotton manufactures would interfere with their work. A curious enactment was that of Charles 11. that every English man or woman should he buried in a woollen shroud. This was intended to help the growth of woollen manufacturing as a British industry. Flanders was an early home of such manufactures, and Flemish workmen instructed first the French ami then the British in the craft. That there was resentment of the diaries If. law is indicated by some lines in Pope’s ’Moral Essays ’ *(1731). referring to dying remarks attributed to Mrs Oldfield, the actress; “Odious! In woollen! Twould a saint provoke!" Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke. “ No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace Wrap my cold limbs and shade my lifeless face. One would not, sure, be frightful when one’s dead!

And, Betty, give this cheek a little red.”

Nominally the decree concerning woollen shrouds continued in force from 1678 til! 1815, but apparently it was 'often disobeyed. The ‘ Gentleman's .Monthly InteHingcnccr ” reported in 1734 that many journeyman weavers, who labored under great 'difficulties by reason of ‘•(he deadness of trade, occasioned by the pernicious practice of wearing cottons.” assembled at the execution of one Michael Carmody for felony. They “ dressed the criminal, hangman, and gallows in cottons, in order to discourage the wearing thereof. The condemned man said that he had been forced to commit many crimes by starvation occasioned bv " the' scarcity of money that has proceeded from the great discouragement of our woollen manufactures.” He urged all “good Christians” not to "suppress your own goods by wearing such cottons as 1 am now clothed in. ’ If they did, he held, they would bring misery to the country, which would swarm with such unhappy malefactors as himself. He entreated that no one should buy from the haimman the cotton garments that adorned the gallows, and held that thereafter no one would wear cottons but " ovster-women, criminals, hucksters, and common hangmen.” Tins discourse did not bring about the intended result, for the British cotton trade made steady progress. Soon the cotton manufacturers were protesting against the importation of materials similar to their own from the East, and by 1788—the vear of the foundation of Australian settlement—a Manchester meeting sought Government assistance in the matter It was then calculated that 159,000 men, 90,000 women, and 101,000 children were employed in the industry. Another subject, of complaint was the " fustian tax" of Id a yard on all bleached and dyed cotton manufactures sold at less than 3s a yard, and 2d a yard on all exceeding that price. Cotton firms with 38,000 employees said that if this handicap remained they would bo under the sad necessitv of" declining their present occupations.'” I’itt, who had caused the imposition of the duty, moved successfully for its repeal. FIELDS OF PAST AND PRESENT. India is the oldest cotton-producing country. Cultivation of the plant is believed‘to be of high antiquity in many parts of Africa, and cotton fabrics, whether home-made or imported, were known in China before the Christian era. A moderate production of cotton was found by Columbus in the West Indies, and by his immediate successors in Mexico and South America. In was in the nineteenth century that America became the chief of all cotton-producing lands. Early in that century tho chief sources of supply were the West Indies and countries bordering on tho Mediterranean, including Asia Minor and Cyprus. In the seventh century the cotton plant was used in China for ornament, and somo authorities hold that the Chinese did not take up the manufac- f uire •commercially until the eleventh century, when it was introduced from Eastern Turkestan. In England for some time cotton was used only for candle-wicks. One writer says that it was not employed for fabrics long before 1641, when it was used at Manchester for making fustians and dimities. Materials called “cottons” before that period were made wholly of wool. The date given for the first production of a piece of British-made calico—that is, a fabric all cotton—is 1783. Before that year cotton yarn had been used only for weft, with flax or wool for the warp. Improved machinery made the change possible. Many Americans are said to have the aim that their country shall use all tho cotton it grows. They are also believed to view unfavorably any attempt to extend cotton culture in other countries. The dangers of depending mainly or entirely on one "source of supply have been exemplified by the great hardship caused in Lancashire at the time of the American Civil War, and by similar troubles at other periods. The British Cotton-growing Association was formed in 1902, with the object of developing and extending the production of cotton in the British Empire and forming new fields. Soon it entered upon the encouragement of experimental and pioneer work in most of the dominions which had suitable natural conditions. Several African countries are considered to have groat possibilities, and Australians are familiar w ; ith the favorable reports which have been made in relation, to the industry in this country. Against the view that women are the most skilful cotton-pickers, one American offers the opinion that the best work is done by “ the small, compact young man weighing about 1401 b and not more than i ,6ft Bin in height,” li is interesting to

learn that cotton-field melodies are not merely a stage tradition. ft has been seriously advocated in the United States that moderate talking and singing and general cheerfulness should be encouraged. Tho pickers, adds this authority, should be provided with such refreshments as buttermilk or sweetened water in hot weather, coffee on cold mornings, and apples, uurxwr resting'spells harmless jests should he allowed —all with tho object of causing tho fingers of the pickers to work more nimbly when they resume.