WONDERFUL WEST COAST

Evening Star, Issue 17324, 12 April 1920, Page 7

WONDERFUL WEST COAST

j Our contributor, "Carburettor," for- > wards us the hist instalment of the description by Miss Sundstrum of a motor tour on the West Coast: Inquiries made at Greymouth about the rivers en route to the Franz Joseph Glacier brought us to the decision to take the motor as far as Ross, and there join the coach, which, we learned, runs twice a .week. So on we came the 24 miles to Hokitika, intending to spend a night there; but this was not to be, for we found, contrary to' Grevmouth information, that this dav (a "Wednesday, not Thursday) the coaches left from* Ross, we phoned the proprietor there and explained the situation, and. though already their tima for leaving Boss, he agreed to wait for lis. Presto! we went, but the more hurry the less speed ; for just up_ the_ hill, almost within sight of the township, wo got a puncture—our only mishap on the 'whole trip. Later we discovered that time in these parts was not worth worrying about, as the following little incident will show. We had coached a long- distance, when hV-e in the afternoon we came to a lovelv scene which we were regretting not "being able to photograph. "Why can't you take it?" our driver asked. I explained that in Jhe hurry of changing at Boss our tripods had been forgotten, and had been left in the hood of tho car. To our astonishment, he replied: "What a pitv you had not said so sooner. I would have taken out one o" the coach horses'and ridden' back for it" This after he had aheadv waited over an hour for us at Ross. No"t only in West-land but all over we met wiih great kyidness. Nothing seemed too areat a trouble. Indeed, the hospitality of the people was a feature of the Coast. The coaching to Waiho Gorge. Hotel takes two days; yet throughout the whole journey (70 miles) the ecenerv is ever | beautiinl and grand. For many milesthe road pas.-es through avenues of trees thickly carpeted with ferns and every i variety ot moss. Three fairly large lakes —lanthe, Waihapu, and. lastly, Mapounka ■ —are passed, and on a- still dav the reflections of their bush-draped hills are very beautiful. The night was spent at Han Han, situated in a large dairying district where the land for -grazing is of the best. But the unbridged rivers, with their wide, rough beds, are a great drawback to the settlers; and for motor cars —well, they are mostly impassable. It seems such a pity that this is so, for otherwise the road is splendid and the trip an ideal one for motorists to make. The Franz Joseph Glacier is only about three.miles from Graham's very comfortable hotel, and is reached by a beautiful track leading through virgin bush, midst ferns and moss, brightened here and there with wild flowers and orchids. A short scramble on the moraine, and with scarcely any climb,-* we were /in the ice, following Mr Graham, our guide. ■ Here we were fortunate enough to be able to go through an ice ca\e, and this,, an exquisite blue, pale, then deeper turquoise, spaiklir.g with air cells, which 'glistened like mvriads of' diamonds, was a sight not easily forgotten. All too soon we had to retrace our°sters and returned by a diiferc-nt track to the | hot sulphur springs. Delightful baths are | here, and under the soo-hing influence of these waters we return to the hotel refreshed and ready to do full justice to an appetising dinner. Our ehort stav ended next morning, when the coach leaves early for Hari Hari. The following afternoon we bade farewell* to the coach, and changed to the motor, and the car, at all times comfortable, .seemed now most luxurious. Straight on vve came to Lake Mahinapua, turning oft' the main road "to the railway station, whence we walked to the lake" a mile distant. All were charmed with this lake, with its lowlying hills and Jhe pretty >rack through tree ferns approaching it, Returning, we continued on to Lake Kanieri, turning off the main road at Kanieri Village. ATrncn the scenery becomes beautiful, and "the road, though narrow, continues good right to the lake, which, high among the mountains, lies hidden from view till the last turn is reached. One glance", and we realise that this is the finest of the western lakes yet seen. Its beauty of form, its lofty surrounding peaks partly veiled iu mist, its less-distant ones mantled with green to. the water's edge— exquisite setting—it lay mirrored before us in the clear, still surface below. Xo longer we wondered at the motor traffic passed on the V.ay. for every day brings visitors from Hokitika, only 12 miles away. They mostly have only time to visit b\- motor boat the Dorothy* Falls, and return the same day, owing to lack of accommodation at the hotel. We were more fortunate, and were able to stay two nights, sorry to leave then this lovely retreat—perfect but irr the mosquitoes, whose persistent attentions added fresh insult to injury already received. From hero we came to Otira via Hokitika, on the main road, to within three miles of Kumara, where we took-a shorter route, which branched off from -here to Dillmanstown. Through beautiful bush, past many waterfalls, and across nuraeio'iis creeks the road winds'through'the very heart of the mountains. Nature seems a"t her best; but yet not here alone, for along so many of the West Coast ways one feels the same, and comparisons are" impossible, for each irv its own setting" has some special beauty. All the more striking in contrast do tfibse forsaken regions appear where once flourished mining townships, but where now are left only many unsightly, gigantic piles of ""tailings"— monuments to the memory' of man's search for gold. We stayed two nights at Otira, and were able to see the works and tunnel, which it is expected will be-completed in two .years' time. The following morning we started out before the coaches through, the gorge, but had to wait some time for the liorsjs, which, according to arrangement, should have been waiting for us. It was not so much for assistance on the grade, but rather-to save the tyres on the loose, rough surface that M'r Caldwell had ordered the horses. For the coach horses this loose surface is an advantage, but for a motor very much the reverse. AtBealey the car was put on the train to Springfield. A nor'-wester made the two hjuirs in very crowded carriages seem very long, and it was a relief to be able to change to the motor and spin in comfort over a fine level road the remaining 40 miles to Christchurch. With Christ" church as headquarters we went two nice trips—one to Akaroa and the other to Hanmer. The first part of the way to Akaroa is ehadcless and not pretty, bin. it interesting near Lake Forsyth, and more so up the four and a-half-mile hill ■ which -took 15 minutes on second gear' Ihe scene trom the top is beautiful. The whole Akaroa Harbor, its shores indented with numerous small bays, stretches its blue waters away seawards some 1.500 ft below. Ihe surface of the toad is gfjod except for some nasty patches of loo*e ?hmgle;_ but with hills and bends we wind it took almost three hours to reach our destination (52;' miles). _ Hanmer is 1,200 ft up, yet the road there is much more straightforward, and in •spite of the fact that rain had made the road heavy, we were at the springs (87 miles) m three and a-lwlf hours' time The motor bridges .that span the streams on the way are a surprise—at least their narrowness is. Though to all apnearance ordinary, one finds later there is no margin to spare ; they just take a car. and that is all-very effective speed-reducers I Siiould think. Returning to Christchurch ihe next day, the last stace the trip to Lyttelton via - nq miles) was taken. ThoughyiasC this' was not the least interesting, for good views are obtained from the Cashmere Hills and again trora Dyer's Pass. The road leading down from here, besides being verv steep, was also rough and full of ruts" but at the bottom it improves and is quite good to Lyttelton. -.' Here the car was chipped and farewelltaken, two going «*orth by the boat and two south by the-train. So camo to an end a dekghtful holiday spent under ideal conditions.