THE ROADLESS NORTH.

Evening Star, Issue 9775, 3 August 1895, Page 1 (Supplement)

THE ROADLESS NORTH.

[By J. T. Pinfold, F.G.S.]

No. 111. To-day we start for the far North. A hearty breakfast, a strong horse, high leggings, waterproof apron, and an oilskin coat—these are the pre-requisites. A ride of three miles brings us to Kamo, a small township that retains the relics of better days. Some years ago a coal mine was opened here, and for some nine years the town enjoyed uninterrupted prosperity. Now the mine is filled with water, the machinery, that cost several thousands of pounds, has been sold, and with the exception of a small mine worked by half a dozen men no work is being done. As in the case of many other important discoveries, the finding of coal in the neighborhood was the result of an accident. Some men were forming a road, and while cutting a hill into a usable grade they dug into coal. But the finding of this mineral has not been an unmixed blessing for the settlers. Several who had good farms leased their land to the coal company; since then cultivation has declined, and a wilderness of gorse taken its place. A little way through the town tljere are hot and cold mineral springs that are very valuable for their curative properties. The water is very buoyant, as the bather who happens to let go of the rails that are around the bath finds to his cost. There is also in this valley a somewhat extensive development of brown hematite (limonite), that some time in the future (for coal and lime can easily bo obtained, and at a short distance) will be appreciated and used. A short run brings us to a settlement of Nova Scotians, where the smiling homesteads and well-fenced fields prove that the hardy Canadians are good colonists. We next come to Hikurangi, a township recently brought into prominence through the starting of its coal mines, of which there are now three in full swing. The monthly output from the principal mine is about 2,000 tons. The coal is, unfortunately, in many places impregnated with iron pyrites, contains kauri gum, and is better fitted for steaming than household purposes. The mine is under the management of Mr T. P. Moody, a wellknown mine manager, who will make the most of the mineral at his disposal. Near to the coal mines are some limestone rocks (granitoid) and a limestone cave, all of which, for commercial and tourist purposes, will no doubt be turned to good account in the near future. Houses of various sizes and shapes are being built all over the town, monthly cattle sales have been started, and signs of prosperity are appareut on every hand. The genial proprietor of the Hikurangi Hotel made our stay very pleasant and comfortable, and we may safely predict that the weary traveller who visits his home will be supplied with every convenience. Opposite the limestone rocks is the terminus of the railway line from Whangarei—a railway whose length is fourteen miles, and whose freight consists chiefly of the black diamonds that come out of the local mines.

Making another start, we soon cotne to a swamp two miles long. A road lias been made through it, but it must have sunk considerably, for when we negotiated it the water in several places was running over the road. After a run of about two more miles we turned into a byroad, on which we travelled two miles further, till we came to the homestead of Mr Nelson. Here we were heartily received and hospitably entertained. By our host we were guided into the adjacent bush, and after a steep climb saw one of the grandest sights ou which it has been our privilege to gaze. There standing before us in all the majesty of its greatness was a magnificent kauri tree (Dammara Au*trali&) I.lft in diameter, 4->ft in circumference, and Toft of a solid barrel in height. As we stood admiring this splendid specimen we felt that had it not been for Watts's dictum that "the mind's the stature of the man " we should have been overwhelmed by its gigantic proportions. The owner of the tree afterwards told us in a maudlin fashion that he would rather part with all his farm than lose that tree. Yet undergrowth is permitted to accumulate round its roots, small trees are allowed to grow quite close to the giant, and a chance bush tire, might destroy it any summer day. Why the Government do not make some arrangements for preserving these wonders of the forest passes my comprehension. Specimens like this one are becoming very scarce, and unless the work of destruction is stopped they will soon be as extinct as the moa. An expense of, say, £lO per year given to the person on whose property a giant kauri tree is growing would ensure its preservation, and continue to the colony what in future years will be one of its national attractions and sources of income.

Retracing our steps we regain the main road. Over mile after mile of barren gum land we ride. Four villages arc passed, tho last being the Maori Kainga of Waiomeo, then we reach Kawakawa, thirty-six milts from Whangarei. This town reminds one of a village in the "black country" of old England. Everything looks dirty, and has awoe-begone appearance. At the time of my visit the coal mines (the staple industry) were working short time, the cause being not so much the lack of coal as a market iu which to sell it. Formerly the Union S.S. Company and Northern S.S. Compauy were large purchasers of this coal, but of recent years they have purchased elsewhere. A number of Maoris throDged the streets, and from all appearances the shopkeepers do as much trade with the Natives as with the pakehas. The coal mine was started about thirty years ago, until recently had been worked by a company, and Kawakawa has been a prosperous town. The mine is connected by a short railway of eleven miles, with Opua, the port. -Near the station shed—for there .is no proper station building—is a "receiver" for the coal and a " hopper," in which the coal is stored.

Few men have led a busier life than the late Lord Selborne, or crowded more into it. He was a positive glutton for work. He used to boast that five hours was his normal period of nightly sleep.