A BUN TO STEWART ISLAND.

Evening Star, Issue 8808, 25 April 1892, Page 2

A BUN TO STEWART ISLAND.

Aoting on the suggestion of a well-known gentleman connected indirectly with one of the Government departments, who is quite an enthusiast on the advantages possessed by Stewart Island as a pleasure resort, and of its possibilities as a sanatorium, the railway authorities decided (on the required guarantee being forthcoming) to break ground in that direction. It was accordingly announced that an exonrsion would take place - to the island, and tempted by the reasonableness of the fare and the prospect of fine weather —to Bay nothing of the promised Burfeit of oyster meals, plenty of shooting and fishing ad lib a goodly number of persons gathered on the Dunedin Railway Station on the morning of Good Friday en route for " the island." There was a rather lavish display of fishing tackle and guns, and it was plain that the fishers and shootists, who were very much en evidence, had promised themselves " a good time." There were the usual hurry and scurry observable when a heavily laden train has to be despatched, but though there were seventeen packed cars attached to our train, which was drawn by two engines, it was got away well to time. At Mosgiel and at various points along the road we received accessions to our party, which at Milton and Mataura was recruited by some young people of both sexes who proved a decided acquisition, as they were full of resource, and were instrumental in making things " hum " when our spirits became somewhat depressed at a later period, when the weather proved a regular damper. Among them was an ex-legislator, who is an excellent raconteur and a capital shot to boot. After leaving Balolutha the weather was simply glorious, and everything went gaily till Gore was reached. There the cravings of the inner man had to be satisfied, and it was a case of the devil taking the hindmost in the scramble to get a seat at the tables of the railway refreshment room or at either of the hotels adjacent thereto. A detachment of our gallant defenders espied a shanty a little ahead of the train, and soon learned that some creature comforts were dispensed there. The gnidwife in charge of the premises appeared to be soared by the suddenness and fierceness of the invasion, but the liberality of the advanco guard bad a mollifying effect, and they were besought to bring the entire regiment on the return trip. But there were many who failed to obtain even a photograph of the good things temptingly displayed by Host Geddes, or to get a glimpse of the interior of the dining rooms of the hotels; and these bad a sorry time of it, but consoled themselves with the anticipation of having a substantial meal at Invercargill—a hope that was cruelly dispelled. Not one of them had the forethought to pack a hamper, without which no railway traveller should make a day's journey until the happy time when the Railway Commissioners shall have taken courage and have learned a lesson from the enterprising directors of the WellingtonManawatu Company, and attached a luxuriously fitted up dining car to all socalled express services. Being so heavily freighted, it was only natural that onr train Bhould lose time on the road; but once we got on a fair stretch of level running Guard Greenwood, in whose capable charge the train was, gave the office to the drivers to crack on Bteam, and we were not long in rubbing off arrears. Invercargill was reached in really good time, but there was soarcely breathing time afforded us to look round, or an opportunity to exchange greetings with the many familiar faces we recognised among the crowd on the platform. An hour later saw us, to the number of about 120, on board the Bluff Harbor Board's tug Awarua. At the point of embarkation there were one or two notable inconveniences that might be overlooked in an experimental trip, but ought not to recur if this excursion is to be made an annual affair, as is most probable. The services of a couple of porters would have been largely availed of, and the polite station-master might have seen that the luggage van was sent down to the wharf, which is a tidy walk from the station, especially if you are troubled with much impedimenta in the way of baggage. In the rip just outside the harbor the steamer pitched a trifle more than folk prone to mat de mer found to their liking, bub on the whole the two and a-half hours' run acroßS to the island was extremely enjoyable. The sea was comparatively smooth, and there was enough moon to enable us to see the numerous islets we passed, and to discern the rapidly-approach-ing coast line. Abaft the funnel, where the ladies were seated under an awning, eoue gay spirits of a musical turn located themselves, and under the lead of a gentleman who would make a good precentor, gave ua 'The old folks at home' and other Christy songe, which were sung with good effect, and were joined in with con amore, so that the time passed away almost unnoticed. Shortly after eight o'clock the steamer slowed down just inside the entrance to Half-moon Bay, and three boats ranged alongside to take off the passengers who had decided to put up at Harrold's. I thought there were only a dozen who disembarked, but I am told that when the muster roll was called for supper over thirty answered to their names. And a fairly hungry crowd they were. Theie were repeated calls for oysters, and much astonishment and not a little disgust expressed when the proprietress replied that the luscious bivalve was now an unknown quantity on the island. The rest of our companions numbering more than eighty—were taken in the steamer to the head of the bay, where there is a substantial wharf, from which they had to walk less than 100 yds to the boarding establishments ready for their accommodation. As I have said, it was a fine, calm, moonlight night, and nearly all the male inhabitants, as well as many of the females, had gathered on the wharf to welcome us, On this wharf was a quantity of stacked timber, over which many of us rushed, to the risk of broken limbs, in order to gain " diggings," for it was not a question of first come best served, but whether the laggard would be able to get a roof over his head. Not a few of us tried first this house and then the other, but like the successful actor-manager who always manages a good " let" on opening night, we discovered that the notice of "no more sleeping room" had been given at some houses within five minutes of the steamer being made f a«t. The conviction forced upon my own mic d was that some of our fellow passengers knew their way about uncommonly well. How • ever, sooner or later we were all comfortably provided for. A little party of ladies and gentlemen made tracks at once for Harrold's, and struck the "Travellers' Rest" eome time before middight, and forgot their toilsome walk over a rough road in the heartiness of tte welcome extended to them; others struck veritable "patches." Indeed, the islanders vied with each other ia endeavoring to make the excursionists feel thoroughly at home, and several of them, finding how things stood, gave up their best rooms to the wanderers, At one place, where already thirty or more was taken in, the dining table had been filled three times in succession. Still, more famished ones came trooping in, and begged that after supper was over they might be allowed to turn the dining table legs uppermost, spread the blankets in the bottom, and hacg a covering over the legs, so that they might be allowed to repose like the poor debtor in ' Pickwick '—in the luxury of a four-post bedstead. The mother, daughters, and nieces of the house waited on the hungry guests at their supper, while the master cooked the food, and the young men of the establishment, properly aproned, washed up the plates and dishes for a fresh relay of the anxiously waiting visitors. "All's well that ends well." The hungry were satisfied at last, and all found a resting place for their weary bodies. Saturday was dull and wet, a continual drizzle, not heavy rain, but iittle wind, and very mild. Most of the visitors started off in boats to various points of interest. Some went shooting, but I only saw one bird as the result of their expedition. Others went collecting ferns and plants. One enthusiastic amatenr botanist went out morning, noon, and night, and got wet through in a fresh suit of clothes each time. Another was out digging up specimens by candle-lightatnearly II p.m. In the evening it cleared up and the visitors located at the bead of the bay amused themselves with an impromptu concert, which was the means of bringing to light an unexpected quantity of musical

talent. At the « Traveller*' Rest," camp the votaries of Terpsichore were in a decided majority, and the young men having cleared the dining room, it made a passable ballroom, accommodating a couple of "sets, who, to the mnaio of an accordion (well handled by " the yonng admiral"), enjoyed themselves so thoroughly that they were quite oblivious of the earth tremor which was distinctly felt shortly after ten o dock. Some amusing eontraiemps happened to those who, voting the dance at the upper eniof the bay rather slow, boated to the other end, and managed to get in at the death of the concert. It is related that one elderly visitor was persuaded to take a row in the bay by moonlight, but some young fellows had previously anchored the boat by the stern. Our voyager pulled most vigorously, but was surprised to 6nd himeelf gyrating in a circle. " Pull your left hand !" cried the watchers on the shore. Dawn dropped the right oar, and both hands were worked strenuously on the left one, but, to the navigator's astonishment, he only went round and round in the other direction. Fairly wearied out, he landed amid the shouts of the onlookers, astonished himself that ho had accomplished so little from exertion enough to circumnavigate the bay! . | My botanical friend made an excursion on Saturday afternoon to the island homo of Mr Traill at Ulva, but as he has undertaken to record his own impressions in a separate piper I shall leave that duty to him. For unyone to visit Stewart Island and neglect to see the botanical and geological rarities that are Btored on Ulva is akin to playing Hamlet minus the Prince of Denmark. One of the "lions" of the island is undoubtedly the home of Mr Dack, who has a vary cosy house jußt above the churoh at Oban. He was formerly a dentist at Invercugill, but chronic bronchitis compelled him some fifteen years ago to try change of air. A five-weeks' residence on Stewart Island bo restored him that he was able to continue his professional duties for anctner ten yeare, when the bronchitis became- so bad that he was obliged to retire to Oban. His health, so far as tho bronchitis is concerned, is quite restored, and at Bixty years of age he is able to take the part of an active bushman, having, with the aid of only a boy, cleared several acres of dense bush and formed a " corduroy " track of fera trees from his henso to Paterson lulet. He ascribes hia excellent health to the equable climate, which, he informed me, is in winter milder than that of Nelson. This is supposed to be caused by a warm ocean current from Queensland, which strikes the New Zealand coast at Hokitika, comes down the west coast, and surrounds Stewart Island. Large logs of cedar are constantly washed ashore, and several live turtles have also shared the same fate, tending to confirm the truth of the above theory. Mr D:ck has cinerarias growing in the open air in full bloom; ho has also borders of blue lobelia flowering profusely, although this is the second year of fheir growth (with us on the mainland the lobelia are annuals). He has also a choice and valuable collection of shrub 3 and plants. He is the Pooh-bah of ililf-moon Bay. Besides taking an active part iu public life, he acts as magistrate, doctor, Sunday school teacher, and choirmaster. Those who put up at Harrold'a tell me that there is one of the most charming echoes there to be found anywhere. Standing on the verandah you speak or sing in the direction of the south-westerly corner, or a hillock right opposite to you, and your words and tone 3 are reproduced with surprising fidelity. They appear to have been a very happy pirty at this snuggery ; and not the least of my genial companions was he who is facilis priiictpi at telling a tall yarn, or he whose cunning pencil has given ut the counterfeit presentments of some live curiosities we met on the island. Sunday was a fine day, and the several detachments of our party started in various directions under much more auspicious circumstances than the day before. An old resident remarked to me that "we very seldom Bie a boat go out pleasuring on Sunday, and never hear a gua fire," but of course these were exceptional circumstances. Some of our party put in the afternoon by cruising in Pateraon lulet, under the careful guidance of our only admiral, and right thoroughly did we enjoy ourselves. Services were held in the neat little church—in the afternoon Church of England, and in the evening Congregational. The services were conducted on each occasion by one of the visitors, the church being well filled. To the inhabitants, of course, it j was a rarity to have Btrangers ministering to them, so that most of them were there ; but there were many visitors in tho congregation. Monday morning we rose at 4 a.m., and at 5 30 were again on board the Awarua. Decidedly unpleasant for our fellow voyagere at the bottom of the bay to have to turn out before three o'clock and to row or walk to the landing place, a couple of miles away. The Awarua's captain had given them very curt notice, which they had to act on or wait till the steamer's return trip on Wednesday, which was not acceptable Their feeling of admiration for the ikipper was not enhanced when they found that there was an hour's wait. Some of our passengers, who are sticklers for carrying out the letter of tho law, asserted that their starting hour was bix o'clock, and they were not to be denied tho comfort of a good breakfast. So we had to await their pleasure till the hour just named. Once more the inhabitants turnei out in force to see us safely off, and, as we left the whurf, gave us three hearty cheers, which we as heartily returned. The trip tooths .Bluff was a delighful one—the air bracing, scarcely to be called cold, and the sight of the aun rising out of the aea was a scene to bo remembered for a lifetime. I was surprised to find the climate so genial and the soil so rich there. So much so is this fie case that many plants and shrubs which in Dunedin struggle for existence flourish down there in rank luxuriousness. We, on the mainland, have formed a good many absurd notions about the island—its climate in particular. On this point Mr Traill, who contributed the interesting chapter in the handbook on Southland, which my friend the town clerk of Invercargill has edited and compiled, is entitled to Bpeak with authority : A notion that was ones ourrent still prevails in acme quarters that the climate of Stewart Island is severe. Tho faot of certain plants being commonly grown in the gtrdens ot the settlers might have been suffialent to dispel this i.lei; but conclusive evidence miybeseenat Ulva, whether the writer has the nikau and other palms growing out of doors, as well as nnoy North Island plants, some of which are known to be Impatient of frost. The heat of summer ia tempered by the proximity of the Baa, bat there U plenty of heat to ripen pears, and the Natives assure me that peaohea used to ripen in their pleasantly'situated gardens at Port Adventure, to the southward of Paterson liilet. The writer believes that rain-gauge objervaHons would show the rainfall to be somewhat greater than at Danedln, but leas than at Wellington or at Auckland. The high lands common to New Zealand are not wanting here, bub it may be with less boisterous weather the place would not attain its good character as a health ie3ort. In the transactions of the New Zealand Institute it la Btated that Stewart Island ia "subject to frequent fogs, but an experience of seventeen years enables th 9 writer to Btate that this is quite a mistake. The olimate is well suited to the growth of all the o.dinaiy English garden crops, and there is neither the rabbit p.»st nor any long drought to contend with.

Soma of us would have liked to have remained loDger, but our tickets forbade it. I think it a pity that they were not made available for the return from Inyercargill by any train within ten days or a fortnight. However, it was a tentative expedition, and everyone who was in it thoroughly enjoyed it. Doubtless in any future similar one this defect will bo remedied (may there be many, I say), when the visitors will be able to see all that is interesting in a more leisurely manner; and I hope they will as thoroughly enjoy themselves as we all did.

Lyncher have been at work in Arkansas, and hanged a man and woman suspected of the murder of the latter 1 * husband. The pair were laahedbaok to baok and suspended by a single rope. At Lucknow, where so many were murdered during the Bepoy rebellion thirty years ago, 2,000 children, nearly all of Hindu Mahomedan parentage, recently marched in a Sunday school procession.