ENGLAND TO NEW ZEALAND THROUGH AMERICA.

Evening Star, Issue 7431, 28 January 1888, Page 2 (Supplement)

ENGLAND TO NEW ZEALAND THROUGH AMERICA.

♦ No. 0. f>r. Patrick’s cathedral—routes to the WEST—RIVER STEAMBOATS—THE HUDSON’. New York has been called the city of cnurches, and there certainly seem to lie any number, of all conceivable styles of architecture, generally occupying valuable sites. There are specimens surviving of the old Puritan conventicle, and several Episcopal churches of historic name are ugly buildings of tho Georgian era, of which so many may be seen in London. The leading denominations of late years have evidently gone in more for aesthetics, aud erected handsome edifices which arc ornaments to_ the city. The most magnificent and imposing ecclesiastical structure is undoubtedly St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Cathedral, the corner-stone of which was laid in 1858. It stands on Fifth avenue, and occupies, with the Archbishop’s palace, an entire block, extending to Madison avenue. The architecture is the decorated Gothic of the thirteenth century, of which the Cathedral of Cologne is the finest exponent The ground plan is in the form of a Latin cross, and the dimensions are: Interior length, 300 ft; breadth of nave and choir, 9Gft without the side chapels, and 120 ft with them ; length of transept, 140 ft; height, 108 f t; height of side aisles, 51ft, The Fifth avenue front comprises a central gable 150 ft in height, with a tower aud spire on each side (like Cologne), each 330 ft in height. These arc now fast approaching completion. The material throughout is white marble, with a base course of granite, and the effect on a bright sunny day, as when I saw it, was most brilliant. The interior is exceedingly beautiful. The massive columns which support the roof are of pure Carrara marble; the ceiling groined with richly moulded ribs and foliage bosses. The windows arc of staincil glass, effective in design and color ; they arc chiefly modern work from the manufactory at Chartres, in Franco, and have boon presented by parishes and individuals in various parts of the country. The Cathedral has seating capacity for 2,600 people, and the aisles, which arc quite clear, afford standing room for as many more. The Episcopalians have no cathedral at [present, but are just now projecting the erection of a building which is to cost Ll7o,ooo—about one-third of tho sum already expended on St. Patrick’s. Turning from grave to gay, I would say a few words as to the New York theatres ; but us the hero in the ‘ Critic ’ could not see the Spanish fleet because it was “ not yet in sight,” so I can give no information about the theatres, for the very excellent reason that in consequence of the heat of tho weather these places of amusement were all closed. New York very sensibly disports itself in the open air in the summer; and the upper ten, moreover, arc all out of town. To tho traveller going west from New York across the Continent a variety of routes are open. He may strike via Niagara into Canada, and take the Canadian-Pacific to Vancouver. He may go south via New Orleans, and cross by tho Southern line ; whilst there is the choice of some halfdozen ways of reaching Denver, in Colorado, with very little difference as to the time occupied in travelling. After due consideration of circumstances and contingencies I decided to proceed by one of the central routes. A desire to compare the Hudson with the Rhine, which I had recently seen, induced me to take the steamer to Albany, and a more delightful trip on a hot summer day can hardly be imagined. Starting at 8.40 a.m., Albany is reached at Gp.m., the distance being 144 miles, with numerous stoppages. Leaving Astor House after an early breakfast, I had perforce to consign myself and belongings to a hack in order to drive to the Vestry street landing. The hackman, as usual, wanted three dollars for a little over a mile, and swore Milesian oaths objurgating the sanguinary Saxon when I declined to give him more than two. Everybody has heard of the American river steamers; andl hadoften.ofcourae,seen them alongside the wharves orspeodiug through the water, but I had never been on board the larger class of boats, and certainly the City of New York exceeded altogether my expectations. It was only her second trip, so that she may be considered the latest development of these famous crafts which combine every element of convenience and comfort in travel. She is a side wheeler with vertical engines, over 300 ft in length, 40ft beam, or 75ft at the widest point, including the wheel-house. The engines, which rre capable of driving her at the rate of twentyfive nautical miles an hour, arc of such exquisite finish, and so admirably adjusted, that there is no perceptible vibration. There is nothing afloat, I should conceive, to at all equal the luxurious equipment and fittings of this vessel. On all the three decks there are saloons, drawing-rooms, and corridors for promenade, enclosed with plate-glass, so that the view is not obstructed. The decks and the numerous wide sets of stairs from one deck to the other are richly carpeted, so that the loot sinks into the pile ; and there is every description of lounge and easy chair in which to enjoy the dolce far nienle. There is not a bit of paintwork to be seen—the whole interior is fitted with mahogany, ash, maple, and other woods highly polished and inlaid. There is a restaurant in tho very first-class New York style, but with fairly moderate charges: and the endless variety of deliciously cool drinks in which the Americans “beat the universe” are to be obtained at half-a-dozen bars. Two excellent string bands discoursed sweet music all the day, with few intermissions, and reaped, I should think, a golden harvest from the frequently changing crowd of well-to-do people on board. There are by these boats daily exclusions to West Point and Newburgh, of which literally hundreds in fine weather avail themselves. The fare for the round trip—i.e., from New York and back by tho return steamer from Albany—is only one dollar ; and the excursionists have three hours to stroll over the historic grounds at West Point, or about two hours at Newburgh, where Washington had his headquarters iu the War of Independence. There were a. large number e£ these excursionists on board the City of New York, and a pleasanter set of people I have seldom met. Undoubtedly they were a superior class to the conventional excursionist of the Home Country, and, shall I say It, of the colonies. There was no rowdyism ; no loud talking, swearing, or hallooing; no application to case

bottles, or mastication of the greasy sandwich and loudly odoriferous cheese. There were chiefly family parties; and young America, whether boy or girl, is very good fun—plenty of vitality and marked intelligence. No doubt there are dull, stupid children, but none came under my notice. As the steamer leaves the Vestry street landing an extensive view is obtained of New York Harbor to the south : the prominent buildings of the eity, from the Battery to the dome of the Post Olllce, and the piers of the Brooklyn suspension bridge. North of this the city stretches away with a sense of vastness which reminds one somewhat of London from the Thames. Strange it is to look upon this scene and reflect that less than 200 years ago the population of New Yorkwasabout (i,OOO, scattered overthe south end of the island, which, by the way, was purchased from the Indians only in Kidd for the sum of GO guilders, or about 21 dollars. The Hudson, here a mile and a half in width, gradually widens towards the north. Jersey City, with a population exceeding 100,000, is seen on the west bank, and a little to the north of this the picturesque houses aud villas of Hoboken. The Hudson must rather he contrasted than compared with the Rhine; it is altogether on a grander scale, and the environments arc entirely different. The average breadth of the Hudson from New York to Catskill is probably two miles, while in Tappan Zee and Haversham Bay it is three to four miles wide. The truth is that the Hudson is a vast estuary of the sea. The tide rises 2ft at Albany, and the river therefore has only a fall of 4ft or Oft in the course of 150 miles. Between New York and Albany there is great variation in the river scenery. At Port Lee, which is a mile or two above the city on the western side of the Hudson, commence the Palisades, a long, perpendicular, apparently columnar wall of basaltic rock, which extends in an unbroken line for over twenty miles, having some resemblance to the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. This wall varies from 300 ft to 500 ft in height, but for the greater part of the distance it is nearly uniform in altitude. The opposite low verdant shore affords a charming contrast to the somewhat monotonous aspect of the Palisades. The first place of any note which we pass on our course is Irvington, on the cast bank. The river at this point is quite three miles wide, and the sloping hills which look over the tranquil bay arc dotted with charming villas. Irvington, which is little more than a village, is named in honor of Washington Irving, whose residence, “Bunuysidc Cottage,” can be seen in glimpses through the trees. Itmaybcrecollectedtbatin “ Wolfert’s Roost,” which was really the old name of Sunnyside, and certainly not so prosaic, he describes ins home as “made up of gable ends, and as full of angles and corners as an old cocked hat. It is said, in fact, to have been modelled after the cocked hat of Peter the Headstrong, as the Escurial of Spain was modelled after the gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence.” The neighborhood of Irvington is historic ground. Tarrytown, three miles north, was the very heart of the debatable ground of the Revolution; and hero, according to Irving, arose the two great Orders of border chivalry —the Skinners and the Cow Boys, The former fought, or rather marauded, under the American banner, the latter under the British. “ Neither of them, however,” says the genial author, “in the heat and hurry of the foray had time to ascertain the polities of a horse or cow which they were driving off into captivity; nor when they wrung the neck of a rooster did they trouble their heads whether he crowed for Congress or King George.” On the old road north of this village Major Andre was captured, being subsequently executed as a spy. The justice of his sentence has been questioned, but is now, I think, generally acknowledged. At the time England treated him as a hero, and Ids remains being sent home were interred in Westminster Abbey, Sleepy Hollow Church, where Irving is buried, is about half a mile from Tarrytown, and visible from the river with a good glass. A plain stone with the simple inscription : “ Washington Irving. Born April 3, 1783 ; died November 28, 185!),” marks his resting place. Some distance further up the river, on the west bank, is Kidds Point, near which the steamer passes as it enters the southern gate of the Highlands. Near this point are to be seen some upright planks near the water’s edge, which mark the spot where Kidd’s ship was supposed to have been scuttled. This famous buccaneer was arrested in Boston and sent to England for trial in 1G!) ( J, where he was found guilty of piracy and executed. The tradition is that the crow of his ship, the Quodah Merchant, which Kidd left at Hispaniola, navigated her to the Hudson, as they were mostly gathered from the Highlands and above. They passed New York in the night, and, with a fair wind, ran well up the river, but encountering a gale when they approached the Highlands, and thinking they were pursued, they scuttled the ship close to the shore, aud fled to the woods with such treasure as they could carry. An enterprising individual, in order to circumstantiate the story, about forty years ago caused an old cannon to be fished out of the river about the point, and perpetrated what was known as the first “Cardiff Giant Hoax.” A New York Stock Company was organised to prosecute the search for the pirate’s treasure. It was said that the ship could be seen in clear days, with her masts still standing, many fathoms below the surface. One thing, however, is certain : the company never could see it nor the treasure, nor the promoter either, who levanted with all the paid-up capital. There are people, however, who still believe that fabulous riches are somewhere about the place, deep in the river - bed. Close by is the Duaderberg, the dread of Dutch mariners, close under whose beetling crags the steamer passes. According to Irving, the Dunderberg was peopled with a multitude of imps, who wore sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and had a picturesque way of “ tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist.” • They were especially malignant to all captains who failed to do them reverence, and brought down frightful squalls on such craft as failed to drop the peaks of their mainsails to the goblin who presided over the shadowy republic. Proceeding through the Highlands, West Point, the most beautiful location on tho Hudson, is reached early in the afternoon. Here is the famous military academy of the United States, which, originated and the site selected by Washington, was established in 1802. Tho buildings are on a plain 100 to ISO feet above the Hudson, and surrounded by the bold scenery of one of tho finest river passes in the world. The average number of students is 250, who arc summoned from every Congressional district in the Union —the candidates for admission being nominated by the members of Congress. It is democratic to an extent that no other school can hope to attain, for here, as nowhere else, the rank, riches, and prominence of parents avail as nothing, and every youth stands on his own merits. Two-thirds of those appointed find no place in the final class-list. It is open to all —rich or poor, black or white, Roman Catholic, Protestant, or Mormon. The nation demands of its aspirant only that he should bo perfect in physique, of good moral character, and well-grounded in the studies of the public schools, that he may be fitted for a training which, in rigor and exaction, has no parallel in America. Not only, however, does tho Government lay before the fortunate holder of a cadetship an excellent education and a life position in an honorable profession, but it pays him for his efforts to win the final prize. In return the young cadet binds himself for four years of submission to authority, to four years of hard study of prescribed exercise, of close seclusion, of prompt and cheerful subordination to rigid discipline. To succeed at West Point a young man must have good natural ability and more than the average capacity for application ; he must be heart and soul and enthusiastically a soldier. No wonder that there are many failures to obtain commissions. Very little of the buildings or grounds of the Academy can be seen from tKe steamer, but X saw in tbe distance tbe camp of the cadets among tho trees along the edge of the broad plateau above the river. From mid-June until tho end of August the whole corps desert tho grey stone barracks and go under canvas.