Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

THE ME GARDEN

LATE AUTUMN WORK

(By "Sandy.")

Naturally interest in garden matters lacks somewhat at this time of year. The flower garden looks rather bedraggled with its profusion of dead stalks and frost-damaged foliage, and the vegetable garden Is out of production as far as its main items are concerned. So garden work has not the appeal it has in the spring and summer. It is at this time of year that routine work is most important, its neglect having a very detrimental effect on results later on. It is really a season of tidying up and preparation of the soil for spring plantings. Tidying up applies to the flower garden more than to the vegetable section for more remains there to be collected, burnt, or otherwise disposed of. Do it at the first opportunity, for the sooner it is done the easier and better will be the results. Decayed vegetation harbours many pests at this season; and spaces should be made for certain spring-flowering plants that should be planted now, Iceland poppies, stocks, primulas, and so on. In cleaning up trim back any shrubs that call for attention so as to admit all the sun and weather possible to the soil during the dull season. Sites can be prepared at the same time for adding shrubs or roses to your collection. Undertake this work at the earliest opportunity, not only because it is the best thing to do, but because the vegetable garden will have a big call on your time in the near future. Roses should not be pruned until July, and spring-flowering shrubs should not/be cut back now, as so doing will reduce the amount of flower they will carry. Autumn^fiowering heaths should be trimmed back once the flower is finished, and hydrangeas can be pruned when the. flowers are of no further value. There is a right and a wrong way of doing this latter job. The wrong way is to cut all the growths hard back, as one often sees done. This method robs you of all your early flowers, and what flowers do come on the strong growths which result from the hard cutting are few in number. The right way is to first of all cutout all spindly growths, leaving the stronger ones well spaced. Of these some will have borne flowers and others will not. The ones that have flowered should be shortened back by various lengths according to the effect they will have on the shape of the bush, and the nqn-flowering ones should be left without pruning at all. Some of these non-flowering shoots of J last season will have to be cut right I out if there are too many of them, because overcrowding of the bushes results in poor quality flowers. Much preparatory work can be done to advantage in the vegetable garden. Bumper crops have to be planned for, and now is the time when much can be done to that end. Weather of. course is a governing factor as to how much can be done now, but the later you leave your digging the more difficult it may be to get it done on account of inclement weather. The earlier it is done the better for the soil, and it naturally follows that soil in good condition will produce better crops. It is not only better crops we look for this coming season, but more abundant crops. Book over your existing vegetable garden and dig over at your earliest all spaces that are not taken up with growing crops or standing green crops., As well as this, look around and see if there are any other areas, though they are small, that you could utilise for additional crops. It will pay, where your plot is small, to take in perhaps a portion of your present flower garden to grow some extra food crops. The first job then is tidy up, collect decaying leaves of parsnips, swedes, etc., for those roots are best left in the ground until wanted, for they improve in texture and flavour. Clean your paths, putting all weeds and leaves on the vacant ground to be dug in. Cultivate between rows of growing crops of broad beans, spring cabbage, silver beet, etc., and then get busy with the digging. Autumn digging differs from the spring operation. You should leave the surface as rough as possible, thus exposing the greatest surface to the weather. Liming at this time will be beneficial. Broadcast it on the surface, allowing the rain to wash it in. Further'plantings can be made of spring cabbage, cauliflower, silver beet,-* and shallots, if you have not enough planted already. This is the season, too, when you can plant herbs —thyme, sage, mint, and the like. Sites can be prepared for planting rhubarb roots and for fruit trees and bushes. «See if you have a wall or fence where you could grow a passion fruit or perhaps a loganberry or boysenberry, or maybe some Chinese gooseberries. These are all useful fruits and can be made to take up very little garden space.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19430604.2.78

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume CXXXV, Issue 131, 4 June 1943, Page 7

Word Count
851

THE ME GARDEN Evening Post, Volume CXXXV, Issue 131, 4 June 1943, Page 7

THE ME GARDEN Evening Post, Volume CXXXV, Issue 131, 4 June 1943, Page 7

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert