THE USE OF WATER

Evening Post, Volume CXXX, Issue 130, 28 November 1940, Page 21

THE USE OF WATER

Artificial watering has not been necessary to any great extent so far this season but it will not be long before the ground becomes and the hose or watering can will have to be brought into use to maintain healthy growth. " ' When this becomes necessary let it be done thoroughly, soaking the ground to a depth of a foot or so. Merely sprinkling the surface so that it appears wet probably does more harm than many people realise, the effect being to draw the roots towards the surface in search of the. moisture that they "feel," only to be burnt up by the next day's sun. Not only is this a waste of time and water, but it is obvious that more harm than good must result. It should be stated, however, that while the foregoing advice applies to normal gardens where there is good loam to deal with, a modified form of watering is necessary on seaside gardens where sand predominates, often with a gravel subsoil. To pour unlimited water on such gardens is worse than useless; the water merely runs away and carries with it any plant food there may have been. On sandy soils water moderately every day or two for the best results. It is not usually possible to water the whole garden at one time so a section should be taken each day. A good soaking once a week will be quite sufficient on good soil. If the watering can be done in the evening after the sun has gone down so much the better, as the water will then have a chance to sink into the soil instead of evaporating. After watering and wLen the surplus water has drained away from the surface, run the hoe through between the plants, loosening up the surface, which would otherwise cake. During a dry spell much labour may be saved and many crops improved by mulching. A good thick coating of straw, grass clippings, or dead leaves placed roui.d the plants or along the rows close up to the stems will largely prevent the evaporation of moisture and also keep the roots cool.