A FLORAL ARTIST

Evening Post, Volume CXXX, Issue 30, 3 August 1940, Page 17

A FLORAL ARTIST

"BROUGHT ROMANCE TO THE CABBAGE"

LONDONERS DRESS SIMPLY

LONDON, June 28.

Women are finding work the only antidote for strained nerves, and as the call for voluntary help increases it is, immediately answered. Milliners, dressmakers, models, and sales girls give their spare hours to canteens, ambulance work, and .packing comforts for the troops. Others have entirely changed their occupation, they are making uniforms, aeroplane wings, and filling shells, or working twelve hours a day on the land. Eacn week sees more and more women ab-

sorbed into the industry of the war machine as every other interest is subordinated to its needs. Even social affairs arranged for charity have been postponed until the atmosphere is less tense. One I regretted was a showing of beautiful clothes and flower decorations in their true settings—a lovely private house in Regent's Park; Victor Stiebel's clothes are always lovely, although he has reduced simplicity to a fine art. He will take an all-black sequin gown that looks highly sophisticated, add a narrow collar of pique to the high neckline, and a small pique turn-back cuffs to the short, puffed sleeves, and the effect is wickedly demure. LIKE AN ACADEMY STILL LIFE. Constance Spry, who was to do the flowers, is the girl who brought romance to the cabbage, and could decorate a ballroom with the contents of the kitchen garden. For several •years now she has "done" the flowers for most exclusive social functions. I have been intrigued to stand before an ancient vase which she has whitewashed, and with hedge flowers and foliage, a cluster of purple broccoli, a small cauliflower, the red leaves of a beetroot, etc., created decorative arrangement which, when placed in an alcove with concealed lighting, looks exactly like an Academy still life picture.

Her colour schemes are so unusual, sometimes very daring; then, by way of contrast, the entire room will be done in white and grey-green effects. Her school of floral art has attracted some of the cleverest girls in society, and created a new profession for women.

With so many of her clients now living in the country she has been called in for consultation on how to plan gardens that will produce the maximum amount of fruit and vegetables and yet retain the charm of a flower garden. NOVELTIES GAY AND NEW. ilt is difficult in wartime for designers to initiate radical changes in dress, for the elegant women who are their clients insist on utter simplicity But fashion is never stationary and | has a constant need of novelty and

creation, and to satisfy this urge they are presenting small and important details to make this season's dresses look different, and also to give a woman a chance to express her own individuality. Velvet collars and cuffs look new on tailored suits, and many light suits strike a sudden contrast by using dark velvet.

The lines of one's coat are most important whatever the season. The model I have sketched shows the figure moulding silhouette, with flared fullness at the hem, which gives a gallant swing as one steps out.

An important collar and fur pockets make this vastly becoming. On the other hand, a small turn-down collar plus the pockets will look equally smart if you have not the fur available.

This fitting line came in again in the spring in London, which proves how popular and becoming it is in any material and for all occasions. In velvet it makes a smart modern evening coat. E. RUTH SIBLEY.