Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXVIII, Issue 73, 23 September 1939, Page 19

Chat From Paris

There are certain fashion conventions which even the most daring or th"c jinost individual of us find our-, selves following—perhaps the Paris' woman most of all. She has her designers, her advisers. On every side fashion is presented, "as worn" for the season. She unconsciously or consciously takes her lead from them. That, no doubt, is why, on these boulevardes, one so seldom comes face to face with anything truly outre. In spite of originality, the Parisienne keeps within the dictated bounds of what may and may not be "possible." Perhaps, therefore, it is only within her home, the privacy of her selfexpressing and lovely rooms, that we find her experimenting. The designers know this perfectly well. And so, when it comes to house frocking they let themselves go; they offer a hotch-potch of suggestions for the woman who has not the dressing talent or the ability to experiment, but who wants somej thing "different." j AMERICANS IN PARIS. These are the frocks that Americans visiting Paris find amusing. The pity is that they don them with glorious I abandon for all the wrong occasions I and it is all a little alarming to ,the j French woman of inherent good taste. Within one's home, it is nice to be j comfortable, but to wear, nevertheless, | garments that are chic and flattering. 'There, one can develop what one believes to be type. The woman of simple taste can be candidly simple. The extravagant can be wholesomely herself. These are the dresses that interest me most, I think—the ones that are definitely off the beaten track. Bodice lines offer innovations. One, for instance, is cut in two pieces with a back seam and quantities of fullness pulled to centre line. both, on the shoulder and from the underarms. These draped folds are caught at the throat with a flat double bow set horizontally. Sleeves are set in fully but fall away almost immediately to just 'below elbow fullness, shirred up into [folds by a single three-inch line on the inner arm. The skirt accompanyj ing is princess, cut of two wide and I straight flares, with central front and back seams and lifting at front right to the neck bow in a sharply narrowing point. | FOR THE TALL WOMAN. This model is peculiarly individual but only, of course, for the tall woman of lovely figure lines. Pleated lace, worn over an underslip, suggests another type altogether. The material is treated in the quite tailored manner, the skirt with stitched pleatings to mid-thigh and crisply

HOUSE FROCK FOR THE SPRING DAYS

pressed to floor-deep hem. The bodice is "fitted" and buttoned close to a prim little flat collar. Sleeves are again to mid-forearm but this time demure with stiffened upturned cuff. Silk jersey is the material most used for the frock that aims at figure grace. Dull surfaced, it gives the clinging, sympathetic line that appeals directly to the more feminine woman. Taffeta and the new stiffened silks are used sparingly. But some of the new- printed and softer silk materials are ideal for this wear. Most of the designs are conventional, and one never sees the dainty sprig or flower motifs that marked last year's gowns. Dots are used becomingly, as in this | example from the collection of Mainbocher. Made with peasant simplicity, the bodice, seamed on either side for ' fitting, has a tiny squared neckline. ! Sleeve fullness tapers to a fitted forearm. The skirt is' set in with box- j pleatings to the waist and hangs un-! i stitched and in folds to wide hem. The gown is in black and grey crepe, and presents something new for the young and lovely blonde. I (By Margret Manet.)