Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXVII, Issue 71, 25 March 1939, Page 19

Chat From Paris

(By Margret Manet.)

Mid-season is not without its importance in Paris. It is by no means the negligible time 'twixt summer and winter or vice versa. It is by no means, as many an Englishwoman supposes, the time when one can relax, when, in fact, any old thing does. Paris designers think of it and insist upon it as a significant season, and certainly it records the intelligence, or otherwise, of the woman of fashion, for by her mid-season choice she reveals her dress sense and her prophetic powers. It may be only one item of so many that will ultimately continue into the winter's wear and become a vogue point of consequence. It is for her to hit upon it and stress it long before her less astute sisters. Here are the prophecies for the 1939 winter:— Nipped-in waists, though they alternate with the straight-from-the-shoul-der sack coat for travel. Three-quar-ter sleeves, or the extremely full ones that gather in to a cuff band. Round necks, to succeed the high and staccato little revere. Fur trimmings that will be more and more novel, slimming, and incidental. COLOUR FOR SPORT. For sports wear contrasting colours are to remain popular. These, even when they are dark and deep, are never rich—mostly they are just the deepened tones of pastels—pink to crushed strawberry or rose, etc. For town wear, on the other hand, ensembles are to be carefully matched. Accessories are allowed. But they will stick to the pallid tones, the pinks and blues of late summer. Hats may be all of such a colour, in delicate velvet, crowns massed with flowers and enveloped in coloured veils —these to accompany always and only the trim black outfit. Coats shall be in seven-eighths length again. Many of these will be in woollen jersey, cut loose but straight and to go with matching dresses. Sometimes these, coats fall straight from the shoulders instead of buttoning across the chest, and to assure warmth for the wearer on winter days they are mounted on jacket fronts, waistcoasts or scarves, which can be crossed in front and tucked under a belt on the frock. "DIABOLO" WAISTS. The name given to the nipped-in waists of mid-season is "the diabolo line," and is very apt. The waist is wasplike in its tight slenderness, tops are frequently gathered or pleated tightly into the waist and widen to a high yoke and exaggerated width of shoulder, while the skirts are also gathered fully in at back and flare broadly at hem.

Fur is used mostly in patches or tufts. Squared tufts will decorate tieends or sit squarely on high-perched breast pockets.^ Occasionally one sees a model that used these patches to extend the shoulder line outward with the aid of fur epaulettes. On the other hand, winter will no doubt demand whole fronts, waist-coast-wise, or backs, of the closer clipped furs.

The furred-sleeved model is one of extreme chic. I have sketched one for you that is slenderly and simply cut, with plain centre fastenings up to the stright, high neck. Forearms only are sleeved with the material, and these are really only deeply cuffed. Clipped seal make^ delightful contrast for sleeves, and tiny cap with wafting ends. This model is in the alwas'S