London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXXVI, Issue 44, 20 August 1938, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

V. /-^iMop !/ Specially Written for "The Post."

LONPpN. July 23,

Such / disappointing weather this month when, so many .parties are plan-ned-for, the; open/air,. and sunshine is vital to their success. However,' Queen Mary had Royal weather when she attended one of the most interesting garden' parties of the season; held for charity at the historic T3\ver of London. /Arriving by water, it was the first time- since the days of Queen Elizabeth that a Queen had gone to the Tower by-the river. The ancient uniforms of toerßoyal Watermen in attendance ahd the picturesque Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters) completed the pageant of eoldur against, the mellow old walls that; have/stood for. centuries on the shores 'ofrthe Thames. - The Ppyal garden party this week on the"' eve/iof their Majesties', departure for^Paris gathered 10,000 guests of the Empire on the lawns at Buckingham Palace/ A lovely setting for many beautiful/gowns. Here, as at Ascot, the trend towards shorter skirts had invaded formal occasions. The shorter summer ensemble of printed dress and doat, or silk suit, etc., worn with a wide-brimmed hat, has been one of the marked successes of the season. ■ THE ROYAL DRESSMAKER. Ah interesting feature of the Royal fisi't to-Paris. is the. fact that the dressmaker responsible for the Queen's exquisite white "will be iri attendance;/with' a dresser and fitter, during entire stayj arid every detail will^be perfect. :. The modern/:bride - follows • this custom also; Mothers and sisters are not alfdwei;to; dress Her, They must stand aside; for experts. ■.. ; The. wedding dress arrives/iri the morning with three . members- of the dressmaking staff. 'which includes a, milliner to arrange | the headdress arid veil. j / • UTH£ WXTtE /BLACK DRESS. /,'' I A. Wheiti/w'^atJier is uncertain and summer/dbthes blpok wrong, the average Wbjnan. is/terripted to buy a, "little black dress" ip fit With .her mid-season ward--t4be.y A■'''." /'.;.-..' i. Shave recently t seen a collection or these tevpurite. frocks made by a specialist who provides models for dozens b'f shops. Simple, but so smart, each reflect the new.line and posses .; an: individual touch. One had the much-talked-of -.- swinging panels j gathered'ihto a higher waistline at the back- The slight fullness of the bodice easing'from the yoke,and over.the belt, with .bracelet-length sleeves. The only; ornament was a turquoise bead brooch' at tlie high neckline in front Another haii? a '"swing" skirt and cross-over strappings on the bodice edged with g^tiri, the hem- of. the skirt and the j bracelet-sleeves being edged in the way. . "■The- swing skirt,has come in slowly, TwP'years/ago 1/mentioried it when Stiebel first launched it before an audi-, j 7' of American -buyers. Now it j

has become very popular, especially with youthful wearers. Sometimes the effect is given by a many-gored skirt, each gore being stitched like a raised tuck.

My sketch shows a charming model suitable for black crepe iri silk br wool, the inset fronts being softly gathered at the neckline. The sleeves can be either short, as sketched, gathered, and overlapping, or long and close fitting to the wrist. The only colour was- a. winged ornament in gold at the waistbelt which breaks the line of the fitted bodice above a full swinging skirt. Incidentally, it is a good design for variety, which- could so easily be achieved with.. several coloured neck draperies, or the addition of ivory chiffon or lace in the same manner; I have added to my sketch a hat

which will surely arrive in New Zealand in the spring. ; Originally worn by the Duchess of Kent, I haye seen fully a dozen other women in various parts of London in the same hat. Many of them complete with black veil with white chenille spots. Evidently the manufacturers have ; mado / successful copies. ~ . " .'" SUCCESSFUL COLOUR SCHEMES. One of* the colour "hits of the: season was a model consisting of grey 'woollen skirt with yellow, jacket and raspberry blouse.7 It has been copied many times, arid now I have seen the sariie three colours in an evening ensemble. Reversible /coloured jackets have been made to do for town or country. In'woollen or silk one side will; be: made'of black or navy tmaterial, the other of; some bold check/or printed fabric in a completely contrasting colour. These jackets turn inside out most- successfully. Chartreuse green and black is a, colour combination .that is seen in smart, collections. The/green jacket/ with a flared ,'black skirt is a style to : .remeriiber for your spring ensemble. •,•.:■ Two: colours in a dress will- also continue to be smart," with the second colour introduced as a yoke or a complete panel down the front or a deep inset waistband. .'..,, NEW BUTTONS. . : The idea of using buttons in large numbers as a trimming has passed, but it has left a liking for buttons used individually. that' has stimulated . the designers of buckles and buttons. Mbany of the newest buttons are - hand-cut, often approaching iancy jewellery :in style. . Erinoid and metal are handtooled into an amazing number of designs', shapes, and colours. A buckle and belt, set of chessmen against a contrasting background is new. Others suggest the planets, Egyptian signs, and quaint Chinese motifs, etc., two buttons and; a buckle being sufficient on one model. —E. RUTH SIBtEY.