BAD CONDITIONS

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 149, 27 June 1938, Page 10

BAD CONDITIONS

»■"' EVEREST ATTEMPT POOR CHANCE OF SUCCESS (Received June 27, noon.) LONDON, June 26. A copyright letter received by "The Times" from the leader of the Everest Expedition, Mr. H. W. Tilxnan, dated May 26, written from Camp >3, stated that there was too much snow on the north col to enable an immediate attempt on the peak, but that it might clear in the course of a few days. The usual wind was entirely absent, which was rather disturbing. However, the party on the north col would push on to Camp 5 and ascertain whether the snow precluded an attempt. Another member of the expedition wrote on May 28 saying that the monsoon broke five or six weeks before the normal time and that thereafter the mountain was plastered with successive snowfalls, making it quite impossible to ascend. The route to the north col had become infernally dangerous owing to an immense crevasse. An avalanche distributing ice blocks of the size of cottages into the crevasse had already swept down "on Mr. Tilman's party and they were very lucky to escape disaster. Camp 4 was established ,on the north col, but was unoccupied owing to powdering snow being waist deep. It was doubtful if, under the weather conditions, an ascent would be possible by the west route, which Messrs. Shipton and Smythe were reconnoitring. The chances of success were now a thousand to one against.