Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 18, 22 January 1938, Page 19

Chat From Paris

(By Margret Manet)

. Enthusiasm for tartans and. for plaids expressed this season in England and America is responsible for many of our most interesting autumn tailleurs. Paris, however, has her own inimitable methods of expression and these designs, as they are used here, have a foreign chic that would appeal even to Scotland! Hitherto, only the slender and sylphlike woman has felt herself rightly clad in them. The large woman, or, the unusually short or square has, rightly enough, been- somewhat diffident about donning a design that makes for 'breadth. The jolly thing about the creators of fashion in this very human city is that they take the "hard luck" cases seriously enough to do something about them. With the result that some of the cleverest colour combinations and newest lines have been achieved. EDGE-TO-EDGE COATS. The edge-to-edge coats of late summer have pointed a way, and, continuing into our autumn modes, have suggested some clever modifications. Another fact that has helped considerably is that plaid has become successfully interpreted into any and every fabric, from the tweediest variety" to the foamiest net. No longer, donning it, need we feel stifled or "upholstered." We can reserve our native elegance at the same time as we satisfy an "in the blood" craving. Such liberties have, of course, been taken with the actual designs as to render a really good Highlander speechless. But these exaggerations have the merit of being almost divorced from the plaid idea, and their colours are delicious. Generally speaking, what, late summer did for us so happily in crepe, autumn suggests in sheerest wool. FOR THE SLENDER WOMAN. For the slender woman who is also reasonably tall are the "all-plaid dresses. These are interpreted in flarepanelled skirts—four as the absolute minimum, twelve for maximum—«nd bodices that, with clever seaming, and tuckings which may be inverted or not according to preference, still retain the modelled-to-figure line. Belts of self material, neatly ' and unostentatiously buckled, or girdled with charming and original twists of leather. One such twist, done in the three most striking of the plaid colours, .was worn with a frock of four panels, slim hipped, flaring to hem, ■ snd with the central one continuing up to a squared neck, cut centrally with three leather tassel fastenings. AN ORIGINAL PLAID. , A quite new plaid design was a putty grey ground crossed sparsely with narrow tan, nigger, and yellow. The skirt was twelve-panelled for perfect cutting, two pocket-flaps were set high on either side, and a flat band '. passed round the neck, overlapping in front and secured at its deep V 'by a large pebble brooch. This model 1 chose her cravat in the darkest shade, • gloves, shoes, and the band about j her grey stove-pipe hat matching. j . WHY NOT A WAISTCOAT? : For the woman who shies at an all- . plaid ensemble yet longs to share ; Fashion's preference for plaid are the : modifications that, are frequently ■ merely a waistcoat. And, with the well-tailored suit,. few things are

PLAID FOR YOUR TAILLEUR

smarter. It is always necessary, however, to use this material in severe lines, anything "cowled" or "draped" being too much out of character to be tolerable.

Again, there is the two-piece that can be cut to flatter the proportions of almost any type. One which I have sketched for you is a clever use of the redingote, cut sleeveless and worn over a slender frock of plaid. Contrasting sleeves and the narrowed skirt width are both well-known tricks for reducing width to a minimum. This time the new tan is worn in conjunction with one of the darker green plaids. Another suggestion Is, navy worn with a green plaid of navy ground. Both are extraordinarily smart.

Skirts are in the fashion news of the moment, but London designers forecast that they will not be a whit shorter by day, and, if anything, longer. For evening they should reach past the instep; short evening dresses are gawky and ankle-length frocks are dowdy. One of the newest flower-shaped clips for frocks has four little diamond motifs in the centre that can be detached and used as buttons as required.

motifs embroidered on to sleeve tops or yokes are very fashionable. At Schiaparelli's mid-season show Mercury wings cropped up repeatedly —tiny ones on small hats, sequin wings in iridescent sequins embroidered one on the top of each sleeve, bending round the top, with points towards the back to suggest flight. The allsequin dress, long and slim, is very fashionable. Also a sequin bodice to the waist above a full picture skirt of tulle net or chiffon. CRUISING CLOTHES. Mid-season collections are including many swim suits, and play clothes for cruising under summer skies. They emphasise the vogue for striped fabrics, many of them in gay colours and usually in linen or cotton. The dressmaker swim suit with its flared skirt or shorts, and draped brassiere bodice, is very feminine, and attractive for those who play round in pools or on the beach. The real swimmer still prefers a woollen suit, or one of the new gauged waterproofed silks that are figure revealing, but gauged all over on lastex, to fit any figure. The natural peasant linen is a favourite material for summer holiday clothes. This tailors well for shorts, slacks, or suits, also it is used for a softer type of dress with handdrawn thread work decorating the bodice and coloured embroidery.

White linen jackets embroidered all over in coloured threads or wools are attractive additions to the summer wardrobe. They look well over an all-white dress, or even a dark linen dress in one of the colours of embroidery. Red, green, and black are three good colours on a white linen background, also flame, yellow, and navy.

I have sketched a very new play suit that follows the "peasant" vogue in the ctose-fitting bodice top buttoned down the front, and square neckline and puff sleeves'. This was made in printed linen -bright , blue on white, with white flared shorts. The same top looks well over a knee length or longer skirt, gathered, or pleated into the waist, ■or very flared'about the hem. A broad-brimmed hat in linen or straw can replace- the handkerchief with good effect

E. RUTH SIBLEY.