MANURING GARDEN LAND

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 70, 24 March 1937, Page 24

MANURING GARDEN LAND

The absolute necessity for manuring garden land is universally recognised, and when it is remembered that such land is under constant crops oi one kind or another, all of which arc drawing. upon the food supplies, the reason becomes apparent.

In the past when stable manure was readily available that was the principal means of replenishing the food supplies of plants, and such material is still perhaps the most generally satisfactory. It is a complete manure, containing nitrogen, potash, and phosphates; besides supplying humus. Unfortunately in this age of motor-cars stable manure is practically unobtainable, so something else must be found to take its place.

Cow manure can be more easily got and provided it can be stored until rotted it makes a good substitute. In some ways cow manure is safer than stable manure, as it does not heat to the same extent, and ?s less forcing, containing less nitrates.

Perhaps the greatest drawback to all animal manures, including fowl manure, is the prevalence of weed seeds. Recently the writer congratulated himself upon getting a load of excellent rotted cow manure, which was in such a condition that it could be spread directly over the various beds. Then there was a day or two of wet weather and a carpet of clover and other weeds appeared.

Fowl manure is.valuable plant food, but must be used very sparingly, as it is very strong, and if used in excess may easily do a lot of damage, even killing plants in extreme cases. The safest way to use. it is to scatter it over the surface, allowing rain to wash it down. A shovelful to a square yard is sufficient. Sheep manure is also very valuable, but is generally very full of weed seeds. Like poultry manure, it should be used sparingly, as it, too, is very strong. LIQUID MANURE. Any of the above may be used for making liquid manure. By putting some of the manure into a sugar bag or piece of scrim and allowing it to

soak in a tub of water a stock solution will result which may be diluted to the required strength as it is used. A solution the colour of weak tea is strong enough and should be applied to the root.: of growing plants only when the soil is moist, either after rain or, after artificial watering. Should the 1 solution fall on the foliage it is a wise precaution to wash it off with clear water, as it is liable to burn the leaves, especially of tender subjects. FOR SEASIDE GARDENS. For those who have seaside gardens with soil composed chiefly 'of sand there is no better manure than seaweed. It contains humus, potash, and other salts, all of which are valuable plant foods. It -is absolutely free from weed seeds, and has tha added advantage of being able to absorb any moisture there may be in the atmosphere. For these reasons seaweed is also very suitable for mulching in dry weather. ARTIFICIAL MANURES. Of the chemical and artificial manures, perhaps the most useful for allround purposes and the safest is bonedust or blood and bone. They last well in the ground and practically all plants respond to applications. Superphosphate is quick acting and encourages fruiting. Nitrate of soda is more a stimulant than a plant food and is used where quick green growth is desired, as with lettuces, cabbages, etc. Nitrate of soda should only be given when a crop is in full growth;, never give it when planting out. Wait until the plants have made a good start. THE USE OF LIME. No manure can be effective if the land is deficient in lime. For this reason it is good policy to manure one year and lime the next. Lime is best applied "in the autumn to the newly-dug ground. Then when sowing or planting time, comes round in the spring a dressing of super or blood and bone may be sprinkled over the ground if required. It is not wise to use lime with other manures, although' it may be mixed with some without harm.