TUTOKO CLIMBED

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 48, 26 February 1937, Page 14

TUTOKO CLIMBED

MISS K. GARDINER'S FEAT

The first ascent of Mount Tutoko by a woman was made on February 4, when Miss Kate Gardiner, of England, accompanied by Chief Guide Vie. Williams, of the Hermitage, and Guide Frank Alack, reached the summit from the Hollyford Valley, states "The Press." Later, on the same trip, the party made what is thought to be the first ascent of an unnamed peak north of Mount Tutoko. Five days were spent in reaching the base camp for the main climb, and all'this time the trail led along rough bush tracks. The final ascent was made; from a high camp just above the bush level in the Hollyford Valley. The party made the outward and return journeys from Elfin Bay with the assistance of Mr. Shaw and Mr. Gunn and their horses. The guides first of all cut a track through the steep bush above the base camp and established another camp above the bush level.

The ascent was made by traversing a long snow slope above the high camp, and then dropping down on to the Donne glacier. This route was folr lowed to the neve above it, and the main ascent began by way of the north ridge and face of the mountain, which consisted mainly of rock. The last piece of the mountain was interesting climbing by way of a rock chimney partly filled with ,ice. ~'■•.' From the summit a magnificent view was obtained, with the Sutherland Falls and Milford Sound plainly visible in one direction and Mount Earnslaw, Mount Aspiring, and Mount Cook in another. The descent was made by a slightly different route.,. : After some intervening bad weather, which was spent at the base camp, the party climbed the unnamed-peak. This was a good snow and rock climb, and on the ascent a deep lake was discovered on. the mountain side-at'.the. head of an unnamed creek, between Stick Up and Glacier creeks. Mount Tutoko was first climbed by the late Mr. SamueJ Turner and Mr. Pet&r Graham, of the Franz Josef Hotel.. ■ ' .

Almost transparent white linen handkerchiefs with edgings or insertions of ruffles are' for. afternoon. frocks.