Chat From Paris

Evening Post, Volume CXXIII, Issue 19, 23 January 1937, Page 19

Chat From Paris

By Marfaret Manet.

LAST SUMMER GESTURE . Although -we are far into summer there are still quite glorious days to be reckoned ■with and fashion gives them a definite place in her calendar of seasons.' These near-autumn mornings with the air just that little bit cool and the light spinning a thinner web between the trees of the Champs Elysee are, for me, among the loveliest. There Is little difference in the outward appearance of the woman who airs, perhaps, her . large or diminutive hound in' the many bois that fringe the skirts of Paris, yet if you look twice you will see that we have all, discreetly but with one accord, taken to woollies! The autumn mode is still, of course, to come. Every hint so -far is that she will be expensive, put meanwhile we are both chic and debonnaire in our compromise. One garment, still. No sleeves, quite often. Slender, uncomplicated lines. But—woollen. The most popular sleeve is the inset ■whose "puff" is achieved by pleating, three large ones for preference, box, or simply enormous gathers. But you must cut it in a huge flare so that, when finished, it is shaped in to fit the arm, fairly high above the elbow. NEW NECKLINES. j There are three new necklines, each I extraordinarily attractive. The first is for the yokeless bodice with the centre-front fastening. The second is concerned with the triangle yoke. The back is squared and high, or yokeless. The front is cut in two small triangles whose points are (1) the neck, (2) the sleeve at the shoulder-peak, and (3) the underarm. From broad-slanting base to base the neckline runs straight and square, is often buttoned, and again front fastened. A. small pocket set high on the left side is smart, convenient, and helps to break the expanse of bodice. Sleeves should be simple, fitted long or short, and the most suitable waist line is then undoubtedly the belted and basqued one. A small hat, crumpled, pointed, and with a quill feather completes an effect that is ideal, giving as it does a

slant of grace, to the woman with the straight, broad shoulders. Another new and delightful style is the bodice with back yoke only. All the fullness falls in the front. It Is gathered into-the shoulder seam and,

without even a line or two of shirring to control it. is gripped tightly in at the waist. The effect is, of course, almost that of a close-fitted bodice but it is much more interesting. The straight inch-wide band at the neck, into which some of the front fullness is naturally gathered, continues to make long looped tie-ends, which occur again mid-way. With each of these it is necessary to have the slenderest of skirts. With the firs.t, the centre-front stitching that terminates in the lavish pleat is best. For the second is suggested the slight back and front slit. For the third it is important to have hips and thighs slimly fitted but the skirt flaring then to a wide hem. Each of these models—except the third which was spinach-green flat crepe—was in lightweight woollen, and very chic, very cosy, very ready/foremergency. We are still stoic, however, when jt comes to sportive occasions. Choose woollen, if you will —it has long since taken unto itself the lightness and texture of silk—but retain your midsummer line. Two near-sleeveless styles I saw recently were outstanding. Both were in the new chalk white. One was front-fastened with large sensible buttons and fitted cleverly in the tailored manner. Set high on either side were semi-circular flaps that passed for pockets (there is no reason, of course, why they might not be real) and similar semi-circles formed a flat-back collar on the low-cut V of the neck. Semi-circles, too, were the only sleeves, projecting stiffly like tiny awnings from the shoulder peak. The other was yokeless, cut to cross over in front and fasten just below the .left shoulder. The bodice had shoulder-width that overhung the arm to give the effect of a tiny sleeve. The skirt was cut with a flare and a centre back seam. Two broad panels were inset on either hip but were almost entirely covered by capacious sac pockets. The broad scarlet belt and triangular fastening ornament were matched by the scarf cdse, which flaunted at the neck. Baked Stuffed Herrings.—Herrings are delicious when stuffed and baked. Choose large herrings and clean them well inside. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and leave to stand while the stuffing is being made. For this, mix some breadcrumbs with a little dripping, a small pinch of herbs, some grated lemon rind, chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Bind with milk or egg and put some inside each herring. Sew up the opening, and put the fish in a dish with a little olive oil or melted butter poured over and round them. Bake for half an hour in a moderate oven, basting several times. Then sprinkle with breadcrumbs, well seasoned, dot with butter, and brown slightly under the grill.