TO AVOID FAILURES

Evening Post, Volume CXXII, Issue 74, 24 September 1936, Page 24

TO AVOID FAILURES

In gardening, perhaps more than in any other occupation, one has to be prepared for disappointments and failures. In spite of this it is doubtful whether any other hobby gives such satisfying results. Even our failures act as an incentive to renewed endeavour. Failures and disappointments are the common experience of all gardeners, even professionals, and in some cases are caused by unavoidable circumstances, but it may safely be stated that in the great majority of cases bad management is at the bottom of the trouble.

First, let us consider the failures with seeds. The seed is sown and fails to produce plants,. and immediately the gardener blames the seed, while quite often the failure is caused by careless or incorrect sowing. Seed beds should as a general rule be firm. This does not mean that they are to be hard, but ground which is freshly dug should be firmed down by tramping, if dry enough, or a board may be put down and tramped on. The drills are then made, the seed sown and covered, and the surface very lightly, raked over to avoid a crust.

Another cause .of failure is covering the seed too deeply. In such cases the young growth gets smothered or has not sufficient strength to reach the surface.

Still another cause of disappointment is when the seedlings come through and then disappear mysteriously. This may be caused by the young growth being eaten off by slugs or wood-lice or other insect pests.

There is yet another cause which is not generally recognised, and that is that the seeds having germinated the surface soil is allowed to get bone dry, with the result that the tiny seedling is shrivelled up, not having had time to thrust Its roots down deep enough to reach moisture. This 'is a very frequent cause of failure in light or sandy soils, especially when seeds are sown late in the season. In localities with such soils the seed beds require to be shaded lightly to prevent the tiny plantlets being burnt up. AFTER PLANTING OUT. Failures, often occur with seedlings after they are planted out —they fail to recover from the shock of the move. If box-grown seedlings are procured there should be no losses as they are usually well hardened off before being sold. The rsecret of success is firm plant-

ing in good soil, and, if the weather is dry, thoroughly watering them in.

I It is not a wise plan to add a lot of artificial manure to the soil, either before or at the time of planting, as it is apt to burn the tender roots. About a week or' ten days after planting some chemical manure or bone dust may be sprinkled over the ground and pricked in with the fork. The young plants have started to make fresh growth by that time, and are capable of benefiting by the application. SHRUBS AND TREES. Shrubs and trees do not always do as well as we could wish when first planted. There are a few points which are worth remembering. All trees and shrubs which have to be lifted from the open ground will more or less check during the rest period in autumn and early winter. Any damage which may have been done to the roots should be cut clean away. Torn roots do not heal, and may cause decay to spread throughout the root system.' When planting, the roots should never come into contact with manure and the holes should be large enough to accommodate the roots without any doubling. It is important that the soil should be well worked in among the roots and to ensure this it requires to be fairly dry and fine. A practice sometimes resorted to and one which has much to recommend it is that of pouring a bucket or two of water into | the holes after, the first layer of soil has been put in. This washes the soil particles into all the nooks and crannies. The hole is then left until the water has drained away and then filled to the top. Leaving newlyplanted trees and shrubs unsupported in exposed positions often causes loss.

Too deep planting ;may also cause trouble. The correct depth is that which is shown by the soil mark on the stem; the same depth as the plants were in the nursery.

There is a certain class of plants which must have lime-free soil. This class includes all peat-loving subjects such as rhododendrons, heath, epacrls, azaleas, and kalmia, most others do not object to the ordinary garden soil.

Finally, make it a rule to plant such subjects as you know, from the experience of others in the district, will thrive, at least until the garden is established, after which there is no harm in experimenting with more uncommon plants. ,