NOW THAT SPRING COMES

Evening Post, Volume CXXII, Issue 16, 18 July 1936, Page 19

NOW THAT SPRING COMES

With every spring that ' comes to Parisi one feels "again: that it is the city "of "newness." Not the seasonal renewal of earth that decks with loveliness , the world .over. Not* this merely,; though Paris boughs too can bud, in. tenderest green against the white-and "grey of. Paris architecture. It is more than. this. It is a knowledge, unconscious perhaps, that here are gathered the world's creators, the best that can happen in art, in fabric, in texture, in design, in line, and in colour is happening here, and now. It is a creation Ifia't goes on endlessly and irrespective of season and yet seems to-carry-into the spring a new zest. One expects' much. In a world where fashion novelty, where originality .appears often beyond the possible,

it is always achieved—fresh and suiv prising as ever—by bands of men and women whose delight it is to clothe us.

Dress satisfaction must mean something to every woman.. disinterested she ■ appears to be, ' and whether she may admit it or not, she' is a happier, healthier, and altogether more likeable person in the garment that she knows becomes her, in the colours that enhance her and the lines that.subtly flatter.

■Let"'us, air admit .it. at the beginning and set to work, quite consciously and candidly preparing for the spring. The first and ' most necessary thing, of course, is to grasp1 the few outstanding essentials-r-the: "differences" that every new season insists upon—and "weed" our wardrobe relentlessly and with not a spark of sentiment. If we attempted to retain all the garments for which we have a purely personal affection we should soon each be decked out like an old rag bag.- There is no need to be extravagant. Look well and intelligently at every article you possess, bearing your array of "points for the spring" well in mind. Then, only when you are sure of its hopelessness so far as you are concerned, fling your last year's model from you and bsgin again.

This doesn't apply 7to fur. Fur will be-worn far into the spring, in a dozen new and enchanting ways of cap and muff and tippet—and there's always another winter beyond. But, for instance, tlje article of crude colour must find • a new use for itself. For the first and foremost "point" is subtlety of shade. Ko colour seems truly: definite. ..Tones are blurred and

merged until they, all but lose their identity. Purple becomes bluer, almost : to grape, or brown almost to prune. Or.it becomes enriched with red almost to wine. Yellows become frail almost to parchment or.deepened and mellowed into amber. Brown becomes rust or russet. Many colours seeni. invaded ever .so slightly with grey. Pure tones seem to remain only, hi the blues of this .season, and they'all tend to be harsh. ' , '

Other points'to remember are the sharp contrast which occur, suits with cravat or stock' and the delightful little Tyrolean waistcoats, brightly embroidered, which have found their way into the fashion world. These are worn with suits of utmost simplicity and strictly tailored line, short jaunty fitting jackets, skirts ever so slightly more brief, fitting very closely almost to the knees, but with a dozen or so different clever ways of achieving fullness and ease in walking.

Felt hats are crumpled to a peak and worn with back feathers, two very staccato, or plumes that droop over the entire crown and towards the front, or deeply dented, turned up at both sides and .back, and decorated with heavy silk cord laid simply round the brim. These in the lightweight felt will take us far into the season.

For evening everything will depend largely on colour contrast and unusual proportions. Sashes will sit gigantically at the back and flare like a wing that trails to the floor. They will be stiffened, and with the aid of crisp, enormous hemlines will bring the "weight" of the design about the feet. Bodices seem almost negligible. This trend is an advantage in re-establish-ment of a "last year's" model. One can always, cut away. There is, however, the new and essential fullness in the front of the bodice, and this is not so easily' overcome. It is almost always achieved by draping or shirring with a positive "window-box" of flowers tucked into the neck front. Flowers are' worn, too, on the shoulder with a tiny frill roofing them over and giving the appearance of a minute sleeve. It is a mode that gives extreme youthfulness >• and a, charming variation from' the severity of the harrow shoulder -strap. But newer still are feathers, ' laid sleekly on bodice or demurely in fold of the hair. A birdfs wing can give shining accent to a simple gown if laid in the inevitably right manner.