London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXX, Issue 155, 28 December 1935, Page 7

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "The Post."

■ November 1, 1935. November plunges us into winter, just as you anticipate summer. Warm coats and furs will be a necessity for the next few months with us, but luckily many present fashions can be translated into summer materials, and it is unnecessary to be even a season behind in these days of rapid transit. Two fabrics which were used most profusely during our recent summer months were linen and taffeta. Linen, indeed, was served up in so many disguises that it was difficult to distinguish it as such. Again, linen used with silk and linen and wool gave a new appearance to fabrics that were difficult to describe but which remained cool and practically creaseless. Also, many other materials, such as silk, wool, rayon, and wool mixtures, etc., have been given. a linen-like weave. The fabric makers have concentrated on

producing materials that drape well without creasing, studying various phases of fashion so that it was possible to buy these "linen" materials in varying weights suitable for dresses, suitings, and coatings. Both linens and the n.^ny .cotton fabrics have been elevtaed to a high place 'in fashion. Many of them are treated in the same way as expensive materials and were shown with exclusive models for' the summer season. .Taffeta silk has had the same fashion success, being used to make simple shirts,' smartly cut suits, bouffant dresses, and luxurious evening styles. Printed silks have included crepe weaves; satin, and taffeta with small and larger patterns, the latter usually seen for the evening. Spotted crepes have been restored to smart wear, after a season or two when they were too general to be chic. The vogue of a spotted coat with a plain dress is one of the summer styles that was always good taste. This was not confined to day wear; one of the smartest models for the evening consisted of. a black tulle dress, with a hip length, loose coat with sleeves slightly wider at the wrists, made of while satin with huge black spots. White grounds were the most fashionable in the printed fabrics for evening dresses. This applied to crepes, chiffon, satin, and taffeta. Fuchsia and purple shades, vivid blues and yellow, and a flame red are the best colours for the floral designs on this white background. Wine red in a ■smaller design on Ihe while ground is a very smart choice for afternoon

dresses and suits. With these the new "ox-blood" leather accessories give importance—a bag and shoes, and perhaps a swathed leather belt.

White is an excellent choice for smart summer wear. This has been relieved with dark accents with great success. A white suit with a dark blouse has an arresting style that. is easy to create. Dark accessories, such as a scarf knotted ' round the throat and the ends.tucked in, with dark gloves' arid hat to match will give the effect of much dress knowledge and style. "FULLER, SHORTER, AND ' YOUNGER." This was the description given by one designer to a new silhouette introduced in his summer collections. As I have already seen the line copied in this new season's model I will sketch a frock which he had called "A Revolution." As you will see this embodies all the qualities in the description, with a fullness that gives a swinging freedom and a looseness about the sleeves that is pleasantly cool on a hot day with a shorter skirt line. The youthful buttoned bodice with flaunting bow scarf which could be removed, and wide-brimmed black hat having an under brim of the same patterned silk as the dress; white gloves and black and white shoes add , the Eresh white note that is necessary with all dark frocks this year. If you are slim and have attractive legs, you can cut your summer- skirts a little shorter. But I do not mean knee length! We all devoutly hope that fashion -will never return. The revival of knife pleating gives the same swinging silhouette that looks attractive with the slightly shorter skirt line. A very pretty model in plain navy blue crepe was knife pleated from the shoulder to the hem, with full-pleated' sleeves pushed above the elbow. The long, straight line was broken by a deep waistband of white pique over which the bodice was slightly bloused: and a turn-down white pique collar. Deep belts continue to be very fashionable and can introduce a very new note into a simple costume. But these are only for the slim, as a wide belt accentuates the contours of both waist and hips. The "shirt waist" dress is another fashion that is continuing, for we now have it in jersey and tweed, also black satin for smart luncheons, and blue taffeta for' afternoon wear with soft rufflings at the throat. E.. RUTH SIBLEY.