London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

Evening Post, Volume CXX, Issue 126, 23 November 1935, Page 23

London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

LONDON, September 27. The London fashions have been launched very successfully this season, and although the expert who views so many parades is liable to suffer from' clothes repletion the average woman will find many hew ideas that can be adapted to suit her requirements. Designers who showed exotic clothes and went to extremes that reminded

one of fancy dress are now modifying these lines with very happy results. So that while sleeves are important they are not quite so enormous, and the draped frocks preserve the slim line of the figure. The trousers effects on evening ■ dresses have developed into -chiffon draperies that have a suggestion of harem skirts, but which are graceful in appearance and easy to wear, and the voluminous skirt remains immensely wide at the hem but is gored or pleated or tucked, to preserve the slim silhouette of softlyrounded hips. THE SHORT JACKET SUIT. There are several practical styles which one finds repeated in the best collections, such as those of Normal Hartnell, Victor Stiebel, Peter Russell, and Isobel. These designers have their finger always on the pulse of fashion, but never lose sight of the fact that the English women dislike the bizarre and sensational effects which Paris sometimes offers as early novelties. j .In each of these collections I found ■ the short jacket suit retained. That type of suit which is tailored, but is softer in aspect than the classic coat and skirt, and seems to ..fit in for so many occasions. Such a suit formed, part of a black and pink ensemble. The suit made of dull rose pink Irish tweed, the short jacket buttoned to the chin with black buttons, lined with black taffeta, and worn over a short-1 sleeved blouse of crystal1 pleated black j

shantung, which had the effect of a knitted jumper. Over this was worn a black Regency top coat, with folded collar and revers, shaped waistline, and a triple cape over the shoulders nearly to the waistline, and slightly flared hem. This ensemble was one of the loveliest I have seen, and yet the idea is quite within the reach of a very average pocket. Another short jacket suit in snuffbrown tweed had a tiny collar and revers of smooth brown lamb and a wrap skirt with applique band of tweed round the hips that finished in a flat applique bow on the front of the skirt and was worn with a Royal blue velvet blouse and gloves. SOUTACHE BRAIDING. *" Several of these short jacket suits have been elaborately braided in line soutache braid. These are particularly striking when a coloured braid is used on a dark suit, as in one navy suit with collar, revers, and pockets, and down the front decorated with an elaborate design of fine cerise silk braid. \ Black with scarlet, and brown with dull gold, were two other models that exploited this revived fashion for ,| braid embroideries. As I- have mentioned before, froggings of braid are very fashionable. These are seen on cloth suits, silk and velvet dresses, and fjiT coats. Sometimes heavy and elaborate, or they may be in fine designs that just suggest the idea of froggings. . . Very lovely was' a short . evening jacket of bright green velvet, lined I with black taffeta and narrowly edged I round the neck, down the fronts, round the full basque with black curly lamb, and fastened with frogs of narrow lamb to match. This was worn over 'a clinging gown of metallised material in white and silver. An attractive day frock in red crepe had a Zouave bodice and full Bishop sleeves elaborately embroidered in fine red. and gold braid, and the front of the waistband embroidered in the same fashion instead of a' buckle. THE TUNIC RETCKNS. I was pleased to see the tunic has returned. This style is attractive for warm days or without a coat, and j ideal for wearing under an elaboratelytrimmed coat for winter, and so is a style that will suit your coming season as well ours. An emerald green, tunic was worn over a very slim skirt, with a wide black belt buckled with an enormous gold buckle in the front of the waist. ■The neck of the tunic was high and fastened with a gold clasp, and the sleeves were full into a narrow band at the wrist. The model I have sketched was a tunic coat, for although it fitted'as slimly as a dress it had a blouse beneath that tied with stock collar in i brown crepe to match the brown woollen skirt, facings, and revers. The j tunic was in brown and beige check woollens, with hat and accessories of brown. . - An afternoon coat in brown trimmed , sable-dyed squirrel had a tunic of flame-red' embroidered all in Persian design of red and gold, worn over a brown skirt, both of which were quite slim. Fur trimmings on top coats are more elaborate than ever, and Persian lamb dyed many colours is very popular for trimming afternoon jackets and-coats. RUTH SIBLEY.