London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

Evening Post, Volume CXIX, Issue 98, 27 April 1935, Page 19

London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

March 1, 1935.

After a month of gales, storms, and floods, March has reversed the pro-1 ceedings by arriving this morning like a sun-bathed lamb. We can only hope it will not depart like the proverbial lion, for everyone is-tired of the buffetings of the last few weeks. The Fashion World is humming with activity arid the town is already as crowded as in the middle of the season. . '. . The British Industries Fair—which has become a. magnet for the trade buyers of the world—has made London even more cosmopolitan than usual, and I was interested in discussing conditions with* a Continental fashion journalist to know that she considered this by .far the best dress capital in Europe today. This is especially pronounced at night, when men as well as women add to the charm of theatres and restaurants by wearing evening dress. Certainly there is every temptation for women to dress well this year, for fashions have never been lovelier or materials more exquisite. Then, too, entertainments on a. Royal scale will offer more occasions for wearing elaborate toilettes than for many years past. CONTRASTING EVENING STYLES. * The charm of evening fashions this season is enhanced by the contrast in line which one sees in every collection. Sophisticated gowns of'satin, lame, or some beautiful printed crepe are pencil-slim and trail into a short, pointed train at the back. Others are slim to below the hips and then by clever cutting, or inverted pleats they spread out into billowy masses round the feet. Again, . Some have gauged waistlines with the fullness falling in deep folds to the ground. Molyneux (who made the Duchess of Kent's trousseau) showed a simple frock of pale pink taffeta with the entire bodice and. three or four inches below the waist closely gauged and the fullness falling in heavy folds to the

feet. This frock was belted at the waistline, with a tailored belt of stitched taffeta and crystal buckle. Several tulle dresses have these tailored belts, and one in all black tulle with square neckline had a diamond buckle fastening the stitched belt, and a large chou bow of soft Cambridge blue satin at one corner of the square necfi. /■ The high-in-front evening bodice

seems to have lost favour- with most designers, many of whom have gone as far in the opposite direction, showing models with bare shoulders and no visible •. means of support! These have reverted to bones, and fine boning runs up each side of the front and back to keep the bodice in place. Ruches,.tulle ruffles, flowers, and drapery, scarf-like trimmings are useful to 1 finish these low bodicps and &v round the tops of the'arms. A noticeable point of these full dresses is that the fullness is achieved by cutting.and!flaring, and not by*adding flounces. The most exquisite.models may be twelve yards round the hem, but are quite untrimmed. , • , The Molyneux "window-box" neckline, with demure little flowers tucked alorjg the front has increased in dimensions. Several models in this collection had the entire front of the corsage covered with multi-coloured soft silk tulips. " •'■■■■■ A white satin gown had three flaming red ppinsettias across the bodice, while a black crepe dress had three white arum lilies with their bright yellow centres and the thick green satin stalks forming shoulder straps. Yet another evening model with a very deep cowl neckline back ■ and front that nearly reached the waist, was filled in at the front of the neck with soft silk poppies in many pale shades. There is still an infinite variety in necklines and gauging is used to give effect both for day and evening dresses. One or two models had the simple bodice gauged over, a thick satin cord back and front, with the cord between acting as shoulder straps, and the fullness pouching slightly over the belt. I ) mentally christened this "The Knitting Bag" bodice, to which it has a Startling resemblance, especially when the dress is made of flowered crepe. , , TULLE'CAPES. \ An important feature in the evening fashions of this collection was the little wrap designed to wear with so many gowns., ■''■:'■■■'. Tulle was' a favourite, material, and usually these were tulle capes made in one or two tiers and gathered into a neck band and tied under the chin. The fluffiness of fully, gauged frills gave a softness to quite severe gowns. Sometimes they ■' reached the hips, at others they were elbow length. In every case the neckline was simple, no ruffles.or fuss. . •.„ , One lovely one in emerald green had half a dozen rows 6f::ruching to make a flat neckline, and then hung very full about the hips. The second type of wrap was a wide ■ piece ■of material fashioned into a dolman reaching the waist, with gauged sleeves and i sometimes very wide b,ands of sbft white fur at the ,wide.wrists. Actual evening coats remain quite long, often' with belted or fitted waistline and long sleeves. \ /Stockings for. the evening should match up with the wearer's skin. The more doubt there is whether or not you are, wearing stockings the .better, so long as you are, for the stockingless fashion: is the,niost unattractive one ever; suggested.

RUTH SIBLEY.