Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germaine.

Evening Post, Volume CXVIII, Issue 114, 10 November 1934, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germaine.

-■• .■ • PABIS, September 19. The fashion salons of Paris are tne venue of buyers-of many lands sent by, the important dress.houses who employ them to choose models which will give a lead to the women of the world.-tor the new season. '^Which models will be successes, and which will win the distinction of definitely influencing the season's styles? ■*, . , These are questions' which are. being answered in Paris just now, when , We buyers of the wor;d,are. meeting at the autumn openings. :^ They .are. a. Keenfaced experienced: Crowd, 'these buyers, conic to see the best,, and to miss nothing. ; s --' ■ • • ' '■./■'■'?-■■':.. ' , .-■--' ■ • •' " They, meet,.in tho '.dressmakers salons" afternoijn!-'after i&fternoon, straining ' every "nerve to remember points,' but~*aFfaf"as"p6ssible l ' preserving a set, expressionless gaze. _ You can ■imagine- that no*-buyer) is goiiigvto give away what he or she is going to buy, or considers .attractive; - Then there aro the fashion-writers. , They come in twos andi;hrees,r and they-sit jotting down notes and viewing the models so as to give a good impression to their'readers": of -what the'new fashions are going to be. -Nearly "always towards the'end of the showings some hint leaks outooff f what Madame.So-and-So from'this or that house, has \bought, with the .result that'the.'.''',little, dressmakers" 'get !ito r work, 'crekting .the closest' imitations of the models they can manage. Despite the greatest, care, treasured ideas sonietimes get copied a season before the models are shown. WHAT IS IN ;THE AIR TODAY? , For this season, • there's going to .be a revival of . ■: embroideries and fine laeesiv Tweeds :hang loosely again, and are not padded and full of projections. .' Those ridiculous ' broad j padded, sleeves have gone, the way of all bad things,? thank- goodness. There is x strong reaction^ against- the architectural area of ciothes we ;have jiist gone .through., „'..-!.'',-.. \ ;.-.'• ■.■'•!, .:':-:.-:. For years, the dressmaker h^s been making high in. front' low-in-ba«k ] dresses.' Today, there 's a. hint of - the high in back and low in front senai-1 evening dresses. . For formal evening wear, in lieu of the bare back, wo have

a low front decolletago and an ofE-the shoulders line.

The full skirt idea is, being adapted with enthusiasm by some women. This amusing silhouette has great possibilities. And, it is even seen adapted to coats and afternoon dresses. YELLOW HAS BURST INTO THE FASHION SPOTLIGHT; "Wo have seen two seasons of blue, and some of us are getting just a Jlittlo bit tired of it. Some of us want a change, and a change wo are going to have. ' Here's a bit of news about'yellow. - Suddenly, this colour has burst into the fashion spotlight. You'll find dresses of yellow, charming hats of yellow, accessories of yellow, smart colour contrasts for every wardrobe. "Faded leaf" colours are other fash-' ion shades launched by the couturieres. These include faded rose-pink, carna-tion-red, and so forth. They are subtle

and becoming, these soft colours^ The new party frocks use- colour lavishly. For instance,' a long, cleverly-moulded. ,affair of russet red crepe de chine dotted with white,,is topped with a jacket of the red and white dotted silks made \vith short sleeves. Another smart combine is a deep; leaf-green'plaid' with the large checks or squares that are at .least six inches on each side. Navy blue and green plaids, are an unusual colour contrast." . ~"-..._ '. . ' ■ \. ...'".. COI.OUR IN AUTUMN LINGERIE. .. Colour 'is r superlatively important where lingerie is concerned, and may match the accessories of your costume, or the costume itself. Pale yellow and leaf-green, are the preferred undertones of-the moment. Ash-pink is another. White or black and white1 daytime lingerie is to be had for the millions: of :''magpie" devotees. - Mater-ials-in the preferred j category are crepe de chine, lustreless satin, silklinen and silk-batiste. .The daytime .idea of avoiding all transparency via your lingerie, has its partisan's for • evening also; And the dressmaker who dressed her mannequins at a recent autumn showing in, shell pink silk jersey suits under flowing evening skirts, has not succeeded in her daring plan.1 However, the only really nice foundation for an evening gown is the crepe; de chine or.chiffon combinaison-jupon that reaches to the edge of the skirt. Long-sleeved nighties are the 'smartest thing imaginable.'^ Their decolletees are riiodest and draped, collared, or'hidden by capes or berthas. Sleeping pyjamas with, all the- boyishness extracted, from their lines and'details, are favourites. They are mostly belted -with ribbon, belts, SOUTHING NEW. ,['' If you are tired of the pointed and round t neckline, and want something new, you may choose one of the 'variations of the draped neckline. . ; This is a distant relation of :the hood worn by the Arabs. .Some designers,, to make the similarity. »more complete, are jmtting;themat the back; of the frock.' The; new. trimmings include, ostrich feathers, buttons of all. sorts,, including wood, leatherj and 'string, and .the

tiny .metal clip so much smaller than those we h,avo,becn accustomed to see, not much.' bigger than tho, hooks and eyes they replace. Bows of ribbon material, or organdie, are used at all times of tho day. Altogether there is a general air of gala about Ithe; autumn collections. Encouraged by the use of yellow as a colournote, and by real jewels used on every possible occasion, it breaks into curls, and headdresses by night, to give a final trio to the whole symphony.