Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXVIII, Issue 102, 27 October 1934, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "The Post" by Germaine.

PAKIS, September 5

With the coming of September,. we must, however reluctantly, bid farewell to the summery garments whose daintiness of conception has never beeu more fascinating than those of the past season. But there is always the thrill of the "new" to be experienced in life, and, for woman at any rate, change and novelty are always being provided for her by those who cater for her adornment. The Paris collections of autumn fashions show no drastic changes, but rather accentuate: the main traits which have been gradually developing throughout the year.

For instance, the Paris dressmakers promise a general relaxation of the narrow line silhouette that has dominated fashion for some time. Some of the newer dresses seen at the collections show-bell-shaped skirts, and sometimes the bell skirt is varied with a new kind of ensemble that has a flowing cape and. panel-drapery from the shoulders air the way down the back.

Fullness is put in skirts with godets and pleats and set-in panels. Dresses. and capes are being made with t j shirring above'the waistline, and skirts are designed* to flow over, and camouflage too many bumps and bulge's in the anatomy. . . j Necklines have become softer and more graceful under the influence1 of draped collars, and floating scarves and such like essentially feminine attributes. This, of course, applies more particularly to the afternoon gowns and little intimate frocks, because, the first essential of the 'sports suit being'practicalness it rarely strikes what we usually call a distinctive feminine note. CHANGES TO BE SEEN LIE IN DETAILS.

The changes' to b^ seen in'the new fashions may be said to lie more in the direction of detail than in anything

else. The' chief interest centres ' in1 such accessories as belts, buckles, decorative buttons, collars, and cuffs. Buttons are very popular as an embellishment. They can add the final touch of daintiness to an elaborate ensemble, give a fresh touch to a simple one, and revive an old one. Buttons (looking good enough to eat) are still popular. There are translucent twisted affairs, and buttons.-that resemble rows of lozenges. For light afternoon frocks try some of-the clear, orange triangles, outlined in gold, or some of the yellow buttons in irregular shapes.

Belts are usually of shiny patent leather.; Sometimes they are made of

gros-grain and sometimes they are in I steel links. The twisted wire belt is also very fashionable. Bibbon belts and sashes are lovely additions to a light afternoon or sheer evening frocks. As for buckles, they are of all kinds and colours. The. large square steel buckle is more seen where the morning dress is concerned,' and the dainty buckles in cut steel and galalith of every colour in and out of the rainbow are numerous. Collars and cuffs are also a valuable addition to a dark frock. In lingerie, in linen, and in lace, they adorn nearl/ every dark frock. BLUE IN SOFT POWDER IS THE SMARTEST COLOUR. Speaking of colour, the costumecolour that is still most worn is blue, and the soft powder-shades are the smartest. Dark brown is and brown and beige are extensively wjirn, alone, ■or together. Old-fashioned shades like turquoise, old-rose, jade, and mulberry are new autumn shades. Tango, the colour of' the falling leaves, will be worn by many smart women. Pale grey is still popular, and there are many soft almond-greens in the style parade. There is a series of coppery or rusty browns for sports, and two new shades, a mole or "taupe," and a greyish purple. There are many two or even-three-tone combinations, and many in black and white. The all-black ensemble stai«ls out amid the brighter colours. It is distingue and Parisiennes in the "Famous Forty" like it and wear it. Black, indeed, is,in for-, a run, and will be worn in crepe de chine for afternoon wear, in tulle and chiffon for evening, and in jersey for morning. HATS VERY BECOMING The hats that women wear just now are very flattering. Most women have worn big hats all through, "the summer, and these hats have brims that are curled and crinkled to add attraction to the face. Flower trimmings have been used a great deal, bouquets and garlands of' flowers that fit opt the colours of the printed dress. • Bonnets aro in. The swashbuckling hats that are a.cross between the rough rider sombrero and the pirate's hat made of supple felt are being worn a lot. Brims sweep all ways, tip up or down over the eyes, whilo many hats boast immense cartwheel brims. One of the new hats which promise well for autumn wear is a big felt with a eojvboy crown, high and careless and dented, while the big brim is turned up very slightly with a band of grosgrain ribbon. Those little turbans of black crepe with six-inch veils or tulle, erin, are immensely becoming to some women. They are worn far back on the head, showing much of the front hair, and, instead of falling over the eye, the veils stand out round the head like transparent bryfls. Felts have been worn all the summer and are seen in most colours, beige and rose-beige being very popular. The eye-veil accompanies most of these hats. Crowns tend to be very slightly pointed and the square-brimmed hat will be "seen a great deal as the season advances. Later on I fancy that higher crowns will make their appearance and cover more of the head.