Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germaine.

Evening Post, Volume CXVIII, Issue 96, 20 October 1934, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germaine.

PARIS, August 29.

Wild fancy continues to wander up ami down in Paris styles. This somewhat fantastic element is what keeps the French, couture at the top of the heap*, and though the crazier of their dresses get no hand from, distinguished audiences, they often reappear next season, sobered and sane, to be runnerstyles. The same and logical clothes arc, in fact, direct descendants of wild and fanciful numbers that made their bow in February last. The wind-blown silhouette has disappeared, the Oriental lino has been modified. ,It is quite definite that the waistline must be placed a little below, the normal—above the hips. Dressmakers have tried lifting the waistline to its normal place in some of their models, but since women have insisted on wearing elastic belts, waistlines have become bulky. For young girls of very slender proportions the normal waistline is excellent, lengthening the.limbs and creating a very slender silhouette which is'very attractive. Sashes appear on a number'Of evening and afternoon dresses, and the double waistline theme ig in evidence. IHE LATE 1934 SILHOUETTE LONGER. The late .1934 silhouette is longer, and the fullness is placed as near the hemline as it can be without disappearing altogether. Shoulder-lines are back to normal, and' any bursts of- enthusiasm take place round .the elbow. . Coats are straight, evening deeollt'tages have started on. the downward path—and there are capes, capes, and capes. The sleek front of the evening silhouette is emphasised by the high, stand-away neckljne. It is' all very amusing and nice. '. '■ ■ For. late autumn in the afternoon Paris has designed some charming little frocks made very simply, almost boyish,ly. They havo small round collars, long slim sleeves, and rows of buttons down the back or front. The only touch of frivolity occurs in tiny ripply basques of flat tunic effects around the hips. THE ALL-CLACK DRESS BACK IN FASHION. The all-black dress is being worn in quantities. In fact, we are heading for black—dead'■ black, dull black —but women are putting such colour notes as bamboo ' yellow, alniond green, or rose pink with it, rather than the posterlike white. By day, though, wo see black sometimes relieved with white. starched'linen Velasquez collars—very Spanish. ' > Lots of women are wearing • black

tulle and black chiffon dresses for eveuing. And, let me tell you, that some women are discarding the low-back decolletage and taking to a very low and square front evening decolletago. Petticoats or dresses with pleated frills are fashionable, and wo are wearing dead white and black, and bows of daring white and bright tomato red in the evening. MATERIALS. This season materials are something to loso your head over . . . the patterns and designs, everything . . . and the colours, all anyone ever dreamed about. There are many crepes, often with raised lines in stripes, for stripes take a most important place. Sometimes two weaves, one boucle, and the other diagonal, are combined in a diagonal stripe giving a new effect. There are also novelties in gingham and a arrival of jersey. It is to be seen in several,colours, mixed and chine effects, many fancy weaves, in dots, cheeks, stripes, and,plaids. Printed nets' and marquisettes • are hauntingly lovely and make into smart little semi-evening dresses. Most of the dance dresses of these airy stuffs are made of ruffles, swirling skirt lines,.and still more ruffles round the shoulders. Taffetas, faille,, marocain, crepe de chine are all old, and well-tried .friends, and make into delightful little afternoon dresses. THE AUTUMN MILLINERY. The models which are in the milliners' hands for the winter season are still shrouded in'" secrecy, but a wellkuown miller let drop a few hints as to what the general lino is to be. She told me that the off-the-forehead movement which is so popular just now, is destined to the same fate which met other over-popular movements, such as the fez of dear dead memory. It is but a passing thing, but its influence will be felt in the new hats. Sho also told mo that for early winter small hats turned up all round, in felt, velvet, and other materials, trimmed with ribboa ■ and accompanied by matching scarves, are to. bo fashionable. The widebrimmed hat, wo shall, of course, still see, but in less numerous quantities. The beret.in;all its new. shapes will also be a.runner for the winter season, and there are pork-pie hats,. saucer hats, and the little boater shapes which .are so becoming, to all and sundry. Veils at night—off-the-face veils, I mean— are flattering and will be seen a good deal. A daytime veil means .nothing, worse than nothing.