Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXVI, Issue 103, 28 October 1933, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "Th» Post" by Germaine.

PARIS, September 6. Paris has some surprises up her sleeve. Dame Fashion has decided not to bo arbitrary any more on tho subject of the Feminine Form Divino. If a girl likes banting, and prefers to be interesting and slender, she may chooso a style which seems to invert most of her natural curves. If she likes to cat normal meals and allow her figure to assume natural proportions, she may wear clothes, especially for evening, which mould her figure, and make her. look tall and womanly. There is a third style—that for the very slender girl. These three silhouettes being fashionable, women should lose the last of that look-of uniformity' which was so prevalent a few seasons ago. There is no .doubt about it, however, embonpoint is the arch-enemy, today. Caught between her vanity and her gourmadisc, woman today is treading, a thorny path,, and many are the

martyrs of this beauty-cult. Pitilessly their doctors cut off cakes and tea in the afternoon, and the sacrifices imposed at lunch are■• beyond belief. "I shall soon be a skeleton," says Antoiuetto; "I have lost eight pounds already, and by the end of'tho month it will be eight kilogs." If the crazo continues, the drawing-rooms of the future will be peopled by shadows dressed in tho latest Paris fashions. THE CHARM OF DIAGONAL LINES. This season's models show that dressmakers appreciate the charm of diagonal lines. As seen at recent openings, the new' autumn fashions look simple to the casual observer, but they involve endless thought on ■ the pan of designers and ' cutters. The continual ' lack of trimming and studied simplicity means that much of the charm, of a dress depends upon cut. An apple-gveen afternoon gown seen at a dross-showing in the rue do la Paix is a case in point. Extremely plain in appearance, the whole dress was composed of diagonally cut sections which lent a gentle flaring movement to the skirt. Funny littlo pleats that look like a row of either sausages or warlike 'cartridges, "used- cn6iichalantly to hide the seams of. smart sleeves, are a featuro of the season. Wide lapels that spread themselves over the entire chest, seem to bo out-growing even their

first lavish attempt of being all you can sec. The autumn tailor-suits arc the smartest, most different suits you have seen for years. From the trim tailored affairs, boasting all the man tailored details of cleverly concealed pockets, cut-away curves, suave, smooth, impeccably fitted nitched collar, and skinfitting baeklines;' to the dress-parade suits for afternoon, fashioned with, all the skill of expert dressmakers —this is the year of suits. The ucwest suits are the models that feature two and three shades of one colour —or twopiece models consisting of plain onecoloured coats, and svranky pin-striped skirts. - . CAPES. Capes shoulder their way into* every sort of a, dress, suit, or three-piece costume. Anyone can wear a, cape this year. There are short, swinging capes that, just hit the elbow, there arc hiplength capes for the tall and slender, and there arc longer capes for the average silhouette. And the cape-coats, models that look like loose flared capes, with ingenious sleeves set into wide side seams are the loose, casual things that make the perfect costume. • Blouses naturally follow the taillcur mode. The tuck-in blouse, although seen, is not so popular as the- short, belted over-blouse, with tricky basque effect, which is preferred, because it has been found more generally becoming. Sometimes waistcoats take their place in piques, and iv pale coloured satin, such as leaf-green, pale pink, or pale grey, with a pale beige suit, for instance. Many are the lingerie blouses of all materials;^ in organdies, handkerchief-linen, silks, plaids, figured or striped materials, knitting and crochet, in cotton, silk or wool, etc. Often they have short or cap sleeves. • > . . PETTICOAT FROCKS. A lot of excitement has been caused at some of the openings by tho petti-coat-frocks which have appeared in tho form of a foam of lacy frills peeping out under dark crepe skirts, or of rustling taffeta under-skirts. Several evening gowns were placed over taffetas slips; one in yellow, with a gown and jacket of white lace, was particularly charming. Another evening model iv black satin, was pulled up in front, liko the gowns of 1913, with a froth of dark rod chiffon appearing at the edge. The lacy balaycuses being shown under dark, crepe skirts,are a novelty. For the present, at least, this idea will remain a mere eccentricity and will not become a general fashion. THE LATEST COLOURS. The new geranium colour' is responsible for some of the prettiest dresses this season. Colour combinations in the evening mode show, the'attraction that geranium-red has for* us. Mtarino and geranium is one of the best colourschemes. Again, for day,weaiywe have geranium, and one of its colour-combina-tions is ashes, of .roses. Then there: is beige and jade and hyacinth, there is a rose-beige, a yellow-beige, and a sandbeige. Cerise, and .'the-.cploui- known as tango continue to f be considered as the smartest.of the smart. ■'. Often several colours are blended_ together with picasiiig: results. An example consists of a deep'wine-coloured skirt worn with- an apricot blouse, which is topped with a brilliant red coat. -Sleeves ofv two colours are important, as are two-colour dresses, peplums, and corsages.* ■■]• ' FASHION HINTS. This season's fashions typify all that is dainty and charming. Every woman has beforcher the opportunity to appear at her best, but: she must remember that it is attention to details that give the desired effect. Soiled'gloves. A crushed collar, or a pleat out of place, spoils a toilette. Everything must be immaculate to achieve that perfect "ensemble" we all strive to attain. . Tho finesses which will be so fashionable in the autumn, naturally call for these useful little sets of collars and cuffs which can be worn with any dress. Lace and embroidery are used for * these collars, and sometimes a simple collar with -cuffs in white crepe do chine or in pastel pink or blue, is charming. Grey flannel suits have dramatically returned to fashion. Nothing is so smart as a grey flannel suit, and if it is striped or cheeked, it is sometimes even smarter. Flowers this seasoiv must be very crisp and fresh-looking. If you want to wear really lovely flowers, choose orchids and carnations. Gardenias are lovely, too, and so well are they made today that they can easily be mistaken for ihc real thing.