London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXVI, Issue 19, 22 July 1933, Page 9

London Fashion Notes

LONDON, May 26.

At the moment the world of fashion In London is concentrating on Ascot gowns, and every designer has arranged special showings of models suitable for this famous garden party race meeting which yearly attracts a much larger and more cosmopolitan crowd. The result is that all the shops havo frocks and accessories labelled "For Ascot," which are usually of the lightest and daintiest designs—for tradition has always called for "dressing, up" on this occasion. Norman Hartnell's show was crammed to the doors with all the smartest women of the social world, and he presented some startling and arresting gowns which should certainly satisfy tho most ardent sensation seeker. Organdie was extremely popular in this (and other) collections, often worn with pique jackets with wide starchedlooking epaulets of graduated frills. Hats of the same organdie were closefitting and slightly tilted with brims made of kilted organdie framing tho face.

Black and white formed several striking models; also gleaming black eire for underdresses to show off beautiful cut-out embroidery on white in large designs.

Tho loveliest colour schemes were shown —two shades of parma violet and deep petunia on one frock. Three shades of grey on another (palest eggshell blue, smoke grey, and grege). Deep lotus green with two paler shades, and Chinese blue combined with a deep lilac shade'was another lovely colour alliance.

Black monkey fur, which has unexpectedly become fashionable in the midseason models, was used to accent the width of shoulder on short cape bodices and tiny jackets. These jackets when removed showed in most eases an evening gown with velvet shoulder straps or a square- decolletage of embroidered white organdie.

Shoulder capes of rows of frills, likewise had full evening dress beneath. This is always a feature pf Ascot clothes when double duty is required for race meeting or garden party, and summer dances at house parties or country clubs.

Everything today seems to rest on the shoulders. They billow in enormous puffs, or crisp wide frills, or shaped shoulder capes that sometimes cover the arms as sleeves, or the entire shoulders.

The very long skirts worn with the now high hats give a very Edwardian look to these summer toilettes, but there will be a lot of wide brims this season if the weather fulfils its promise of warmth and sunshine.

I have sketched a lovely gown suitable for house wear, which will also grace the lawns of the Eoyal Enclosure. This was made of heavy dull-surfaced crepe that hung in graceful folds and was in a beautiful shade of grey beige. The posy of flowers ' was in red, and a perfectly plain wide-brimmed hat in fine red straw was to be- worn with it.

This model has also been copied in paiisy purple crepe for a house gown with parma violets, and a white; organdie hat just tied with a narrow purple ribbon. Artificial flowers are all set in clusters in the centre of bodices, and some tiny floral hats worn well to one side are set on heads massed with curls so tight that they look like blossoms also.

One white organdie dress had , huge blobs of sealing-wax red as patterning, and this had a small red hat and red gloves. One or two all-black toilettes stood out in this dazzling collection. A gown of black organdie with oval-shaped stiffened ciro petals on the shoulders and a small black hat reminded one of r summer beetle in a flower garden, the slim.: skirt and exaggerated shoulders enhancing Ihis impression. Another in sh'immery black eire satin had wide shoulder capes edged with monkey fur and a tiny black hat with gardenias massed at tho back, and a cluster of gardenias in tho front of the bodice.

Specially Written for "The Post."

So if it is wet at Ascot this year, or even faintly damp, the stiffness of the present fashionable frocks will wilt

at once, for, alas, organdie or stiffened chiffon dislikes any suggestion of moisture.

There aro two schools of thought about town clothes this year. Conservative women stick to garden party models for summer afternoon functions. Others have taken to semi-sports Jrcsses, which they can wear from breakfast until d.hmer:

Recently I saw this illustrated as two smart women talked together at an afternoon, reception. One, charming,

young, and married, was wearing a short-sleeved frock with high neckline and pointed collar front and back. The slotted metal belt had dog-leash ends, and the dress was of fine beige woollen with nigger brown shilling-sized spots. Shortish brown gauntlet gloves with scolloped edges, and a brown hat with a pleated brim ' which could be adapted to the face, and slim skirt lines that had concealed pleating from the knee's finished this trim, all-day outfit.

The other girl was wearing a dress that had luxurious white flowers sprayed across a black ground to match its black satin three-quarter coat, hat, and belt.

Short sleeves massed with monkey fur and long white rucked gloves were other points about this sophisticated ensemble.

A few years, ago the, woman with little to spend would say: "I cannot afford extras."

Now the extras, the alternative collars, bows, caps, and jumpers have become more important for economy reasons than the dress itself.

You can wear last year's dress or the previous year's possibly, if you lay in a supply of current accessories, studying the smartest models and adapting the salient points to yoffr needs. With one dark blue or black town dxess and a .woollen country suit there are so many ways of ringing the changes. For town, a big white organdie bow at the neck, with a.' pink and cream foulard scarf collar, uncrushable and does not show dirt, to fall back on.

A beige or light-coloured country suit with a black linen or crepe shirt, and a crocheted string blouse, will ensure a smart weekend appearance. It is the small points of dress than count this season.

BUTH SIBLEY.