Paris in the Mirror Written for The Past" by Germain.

Evening Post, Volume CXIII, Issue 1, 2 January 1932, Page 7

Paris in the Mirror Written for The Past" by Germain.

PARIS, 9th November. • Tho economic depression through, which the world in general, and Britain in particular, has been passing, has had two results which are observable in tho new fashions. One is more extravagance and more luxurious styles, and the other is at the opposite extreme, consisting of clothes for all-day duty, instead of an "ensemble" for every hour.

The latter inspiration has produced some first-rate coat styles. And certain it is they are going to travel far and wide; these fashions are a boon to the deflated pocket-book and a ioy. to the eye. There is no taint of the hand-me-down -about themi They arc hardwearing without looking poor, because they contain the priceless combination of good, simple lines, first-class-work-manship, smart fur, and iron-dad material, that doesn't look it. The all-day eo;if, as designed by the Paris dressmakers, steers clear of any such categories as sport,-street,'and afternoon. It serves for all three, without being classified in any one of them. That's

about. all any single coat can do, and describe Paris chic at. tho same time.

There's a silhouette that these allday coats, f0110w... lt:is.a. slightly'fitted, gently flared, silhouette with; no exaggeration anywhere. Variety to suit the figure of the.individual woman and her taste is found in sleeves, collars, .1 belts, and trimmings. ! COAT COLLARS. The collars of all day coats in Paris vary enormously. There are big shawl collars of fox and lynx, tailored, liko those on a suit-jacket,- scarf-collars of cloth, fur, and velvet, coachman's collars with big revers, and coats with small standing collars—and one big rover on the. right side, which buttons right up to; the-neck, or falls open, as you will. • : Sleeves are often straight, with furtrimming at the elbow or at the shoulder; the latter is much newer. They are, on some of the smartest coats, flarr ed in a half-moon, curve down the out-

side of the arm, from shoulder to wrist, and they are, as I have said before, cut -with very deep arm holes, and fitted from elbows to wrist. MATERIAL FOE THE EVERYDAY COAT. Cloth for the all-day coat is varied. The smartest of these coats are made of diagonal woollen material, or of stout wool, with a surface like duvetyn that docs not wear down or get shiny. Tweeds, in indefinite patterns, make some Paris coats, but this material must be very discreet in colour if it is to be worn all day long. Broadcloth jersey as a good coat fabric, cheviot also, and real broadcloth, with its sheen omitted, is very smart indeed. Colour is a personal matter. JJi-ighn coats .worn over neutral colour dresses are featured by Paris, as arc beige arid" grey coats with day dresses. Bi-eolour-ed coats are new and.smart, but dangerous to the woman with a limited income, since they date quickly. Black, brown, dark green, and navy.blue make a quartette.,of coats that are fashionable and at the same timo practical. An excellent plan is to get your coat first, and then choose your dresses to match it, or to contrast:smartly. You can always brighten up the one-colour outfit with accessories, such as hat, gloves, and scarf. A NEW MATERIAL POR EVENING GOWNS. Several efforts have been made during the last two or three seasons to get away from the use of silks, satins, and velvets, for evening wear. Jerseys haye even been employed by some of the Paris designers, and another innovation, is a fine, thin cloth for evening. gowns. A model seen recently in turquoise had a closely-fitting bodice, and the skirt- hanging full from the hips, and' a matching three-quarter length coat with \i collar of black velvet.' For ; the rest, lace, georginette, chiffons, mostly plain, net, and satin are among the fabrics being used by the Paris eouturiere for evening wear. And sho lays great stress on jackets, which accompany frocks of every kind. She puts greater insistence on the importance of collars, and gets away entirely from the simple neck-line we have known for the last four, seasons. She makes these collars long and wide,, and cuts them on the cross, so that they hang in front with soft folds, or she stiffens them and folds'them over at the back to give them a Medici air. The latter type/is seen even on otherwise simple costumes. Plaited strips of the material also are used .to finish off the neckline of a coat.' This plaited effect is occasionally seen-on sleeves all of which are carefully studied. FASHION HINTS. .'■.•,- The "platinum-blonde" is at the apex of fashion. To achieve this exquisite blonde shade, four or five treatments are often, required, with ,a week between each, while the chemicals gradually do their work.. This silvery yellow hair is certainly very beautiful,.if worn by the right girl. Afternoon dresses in: the wine-red shadejs are prominent this season. Intricately-draped decolletees, twisted shoulder.-straps,. or sashes ending in long accordion-pleated; scarves, and draped belts are new fashion details.. Lemon-yellow' lace makes a pretty dance frock with three ruffles just: below the waist. Lace flowers, outlino the neck. . ' Flounced- crinolines of .net with flounces spreading over a stiffened foundation, were seen at a recent opening. With ■ these were worn small coats, their wide sleeves trimmed with fur at the wrists, and a feather head-dress or hat, making the mannequin look like the heroine of a romance of the /sixties. .. ■ , : . Turbans of fur for. winter—says Pans! Very feminine ones of ermine, daring and dashing ones of Persian lamb. ■■■■ . VAuthentic 1870 evening gowns>.^rita fitted bodices and a skirt covered with tiiiy ruffles and small ruffled trains were seen at a dance at the Hotel Bitz last night. \ . ' V* - A. compromise has been reached ove? the length of the new season's dresses. They are shortor for day-wear, cjjmiug half-way between 'the knee and "ankle., In the evening, the hem is ankle ;br floor length, according to the character' of the gown. ■