London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 106, 31 October 1931, Page 9

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "The Post."

LONDON, 4th September. Tho summer of 1931 has certainly made, fashion history by its revolution in millinery modes, which developed almost overnight.. Suddenly we find all the little caps and berets superseded by" challenging

little Victorian hats, slightly adapted to wear with modern eoifiures.

Even so, a change of hair-dressing has become necessary, for all these new hats are shallow-crowned, worn very much, at an angle, and decidedly picturesque. At tho moment, the hair is kept rather long, with deep waves that come over the ears, and the ends of this rather long hair are curled, up tightly so that the general effect of the head is square. Ono must tilt one's hat; but as there aro no hard-and-fast rules- for which side this'tilting'should bo done, chboso the best' side of your hair, and leave that exposed, and bo suro that it is smooth, glossy, and deeply waved. The hair brush, which departed with tho first shingles and permanent waves, is once more being called into use. Brilliantino will not give that glossy, well-groomed look that is so necessary just now unless the hair is well and diligently brushed.

There has been a perfect craze for blonde hair, first started by Anita Loos with her amusing book that announced that "Gentlemen Preferred Blondes."

Then the most exotic creatures of the films all became so very blonde that a new colour name had to be coined, and the "platinum blonde," who was nearly white, has been the most admired screen type for some time. All our, dark-haired beauties longed for fair hair, and many succumbed to the dyo pot.

The result is often far from happy, and many a "bloudine" (one who is born a brunetto but has dyed blonde) is regretting, the soft frame of dark hair which enhanced the tones of her complexion and deepened the colour of her eyes. Dyed hair is rarely a complete success, and for the middle-aged

woman it too often spells disaster. As tho yours advance, tiiko more caro of tlio hair and complexion that Naturo has provided, but do not try any revolutionary change of colour. A well-groomed head o greying liuir L far nioro becoming to a mature faco tliau tho hard contrast of pcroxido or henna, and the timo and money wasted in dyeing will liv well Kpcnt if used for massage, careful shampooing, deep u.itural waving, and much brushing. The same thing applies to dressing. If ouly women would choose styles which are individually becoming instead of the last word in fashion, they would always look well dressed, however old the costume. This was impressed on.me very forcibly yesterday when I. admired the appoaraneo of a handsome American woman who is paying a long visit, to London. ."But 1 had it befo.-cj went into mourning," she exclaimed, and that, I knew, was more than two years ago. All tho same, she looked exquisite in a gown of black chlffou velvet with white spots, a cross-over bodice outlined with a narrow collar of white crepe that opened over a delicate crepe veste, and tiny touches of white at the wrists of her long, slim sleeves. She is not too slim, and never indulged in very short skirts, so the length was as perfect as the fitting, and, although ber gown was over two years old, she created an impression of expensive elegance. Too many women try to adapt themselves to tho latest fashions instead of picking the most becoming of these now ideas and adapting them to their own figures and personalities. Tho London dress houses are issuing invitations for their first autumn showings, and next week wo shall sec how many of tho sensational Paris models lu'.vo found their way across tho Channel. Paris will always remain tho inspiration of fashion, but English dressmaking to-day is sccou'd to none, and much more becoming to the Anglo-Bason typo of woman. The French women can subordinate their lives to their clothes, not so tho British or even American women. I'or them the clothes must fit into their lives, and. this creates a very definite but subtlo difference. The use of fur trimming on betweenseason suits and one-piece frocks is ouo of the newest touches and likely to be very popular. Gay suits of rust red, emerald green, and sapphiro blue are effectively trimmed with smooth-haired black furs or fur fabrics which are so realistic as to defy detection. Brown velvet suits trimmed brown or beigo lamb aro immensely popular for afternoon gowns, as in the jacket suit sketched. This model I have seen in. rust red trimmed black as well as brown trimmed beige. It has three very fashionable points in the trimmed sleeves, tiered skirt, and briof jacket, and would look equally well in woollen or silk fabrics. Many changes aro apparent in the weaves and colourings for the autumn dress materials. The boldly designed tweeds of mixed colours have given place to softly shaded, neat, small'patterns. Diagonal waves are very much in evidence for coatings, somo being shapely defined in two shades, such as black and green, and browns and beige, while others in self-colouring aro so closely woven that the diagonal markings are scarcely discernible. Frosted cloths arc very fashionable, particularly in tho darker colourings. Tho frosted effect is given by a very light fleck in grey or white that looks as if it had been blown on the surface. . Dyeing furs to match winter coats is an exotic fancy whicl» will only appeal to a few. But tho coloured fur fabrics arc lovely. Pony skin fabric in rich shades of BurguDdy red, Lincoln green, as well as brown and beige, makes delightful short coats or long belted tunics worn with cloth skirts to match. I particularly liked one in Lincoln green, the long tunic with scarf collar and green leather belt worn with a box-pleated skirt, and a jaunty little Robin Hood hat in matching green felt with a slim green quill. EUTII SIBLEY.