BOOTS AND SHOES

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 121, 25 May 1931, Page 11

BOOTS AND SHOES

NEW ZEALAND INDUSTRIES

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

A report dealing with some technical aspects of the boot and shoe industry in Now Zealand'and one of a series of reports forward/d to the Prime Minister (the '.Right Hon. G. W. Forbes) in his capacity as Minister of Scientific and. Industrial Research, has been released for publication. ' . "In order to successfully carry on a business it is essential to know as much as possible about the 'materials. used, the best; methods of treating'them to obtain the .best results, and, above all, general methods'of'preventing waste," says the report. "Where an industry has boon established for a considerable time and on a large scale, there are several methods by which the,information can be obtained, e.g.— (1) A firm or collection of firms may employ a very highly-trained technical staff to obtain the necessary informa-^ tion. Because of the large output, the' cost is comparatively small. (2) Technical schools and colleges have arisen to train people for special trades, which involves the dissemination of technical knowledge. ' (3) Finns supplying proprietary articles maintain a. trained technical staff: (a) to help in tho production of better goods;" (b) to help their customers when in difficulty. Nono of-these- aids to industry is available to the boot trade-in New Zealand, or, if such do exist, it is in only a small way as compared with other countries. "Dealing specifically with certain of the materials used in the ooot trade, the following appear to be some of the technical difficulties with which the manufacturer has to contend: —: "Leather.—ln the past very little attention lias been given to the effect of factory conditions on the storage of leather and finished shoos, the effect of humidity and temperature on the leather.in the process; of making shoes, the proper tempering or mulling of leather-in order to obtain the best conditions for working, the materials used in the manufacture of leather, and their effect on the materials used by the boot manufacturer. Special knowledge is required of the. ten silo strength, elasticity, permeability to air and moisture of upper leather's, so that shoes may bo built up to give tho maximum of wear and general neatness of appearance during wear. Patent leather requires special consideration in view of tho fact that great losses have occurred in thepast from lack of knowledge of the film of enamel, and how it reacts to treatment during lasting and storing. ' ' Canvas and Fabrics.—Canvas linings in leather shoes should be carefully considered in relation, to' the tensila strength along warp and weft to the tensile, strength of the leather. This aspect, requires to.be considered even moroearcfuJly when satin and brocade shoes arc being made. If the maximum use is to be obtained from this class, of shoe, then the lining must, be chosen so as to givo additional strength to weaker material which' is to be on the outside. "Adhesives. —Adhesives take a- prominent part in the making of a shoe, and, subsequently, in the wearing. Adhesives are not all the same, and require to be used for the specific purpose for which they are mose suitable, e.g., some adhesives lose their strength in cither moist or warm conditions; others react in the opposite way. Some adhesives contract em drying; others become brittle and lose their efficiency on wear. A detailed knowledge of the properties of adhesives and the conditions under which they will be used is necessary for the best results to bo obtained. "Finishes: —The attractiveness or general appearance of the finished shoe is to a great extent tho deciding.factor which enables sales to bo made. There arc. many kinds of leather and. many kinds of polishes, waxes, and finishes. In order to obtain the best result, the proper finish must, be found for the type of leather of which the shoe is made. Typical examples of this are found in the different treatments required to finish various types of kid leather as compared with "calf leather. Not only must the finished shoe look well in tho factory, but iilso after twelve, months in tho retailer's shop. Thore is no. doubt that the supply-'of stains, polishes, etc., available to the shoe-trade in New Zea--land is a very comprehensive one; but as a rule the agents who sell them are not competent to advise as to their use, and the instructions 'sent with them often are inadequate for the scientific use of them. "Labour.—There is a great lack of technical knowledge amongst operatives training in New Zealand of the materials that they use. At present there are no means by which this technical knowledge can bo obtained. The _ present position is that bootmaking is not a full-time occupation for all operatives. As a result there is wastage of trained operatives, which is not capable of being replaced by the present apprentice system. At n normal busy season tho demand'for "key" operatives exceeds the supply. This position hinders and delays fulfilment of orders, resulting in orders being placed overseas. Wliena designer or skilled craftsman is required it is generally the case that a person is brought into New Zealand to fill the position. ■ With some means of technical education or.training theso lucrative posts would be available to locallytrained ' men. This would provide a future.outlet for some of the youths leaving school,-which outlet-at present is closed to them. The latest machinery is available to the industry, but there is only one man available to instructoperatives in each island..This man alsois responsible for Repairs to machinery, installation of new:machines,-as well as instruction in how. to use. them. It is impossible to expect this-.person to be a skilled operative, on-any one machine in addition to the .other qualifications he must possess.. A thorough investigation of the.present methods of marketing is desirable. In some cases very high selling charges exist; and there is a great discrepancy between tho wholesale and retail prices.