Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 74, 28 March 1931, Page 15

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "The Post" by Germaino,

PAMS, 28th January.

Those who have been privileged "to witness the parade of the mannequins at tho recent big Fashion Openings are not aware that finding names for tho gowns they admire is not tho easiest of tho dressmakers' tasks. Naming dresses has become such a fashion, that there appears to be nearly as much difficulty in finding something original for them, as there is when naming racehorses. At a party recently given, a prize of a beautiful bag was offered to tho person who could label- successfully a fashionable collection. Dresses have becu given such fantastic names as."Midnight'Sun," ''The Blue Train," "Golden Arrow," "Persuasion," "Temp-

A black crepe evening dress loibh a design in pale yellow roses. The skirl is close-fitting to a little above the knees, and from there it falls into Uvo graceful flounces.

tation," "Nuit d'Ete," "The End of a Perfect Day, '.'. '.and—«''Midget Golf,"' the latter name being very up-to-date. At ono dress show, all the women were presented with tiny white crepe-de-chine - handkerchiefs with a large scarlet p.oppy encrusted, and embroidered in the centre. These pretty handkerchiefs are intended for Madame to use when she takes off the excess of paint from, her pretty lips. ENSEMBLES. Ensembles are definitely o^the. wane. The old liaison of coat and; dress has, in many cases, been completely broken up, which means lots of separate dressps and separate coats or ensembles," in which coat and frock are: of different material, so that the coat may be worn with a number of dresses. Town clothes are much more formal in effect; one of the reasons of this is that tweeds, as we know them, have almost disappeared, and the new tweeds are used only for sports and travel costumes. Broadcloth, velvet, kashatulla,.-kasha,. cordoroy, fur-trimmed, lend richness to'the daytime mode. Almost any length ~of coat may be worn.- Many coats areworn with separate leather, or antelope belts, placed at the natural waist.

Others have tic-belts. Theco are long and three-quarter length'Kussian coats, rcdiugotes, and many full-skirted coats, both for day and evening. ■ The new'fashion ..requires wraps to have a distinct, line, ; there being no idea of abandoning tho . - slendcrhess which is indispensable':'to a youthful effect. ■•:•.'.•' •■■

CONCERNING TUNICS AND

blouses;

Blouse jackets that end "in a bandbolt —buttoned- at 'the- natural waistline—are fashionable.: They are very smart, and undoubtedly .will be popular with slim young things. They are used on sports and morning frocks, and they aro used to complete some of the smartest morning ensembles. ; Dressy afternoon suits of velvet or broadcloth have tuuie blouses. These tunic blouses have almost driven the inside-blouse from, town circles into'the' sports ring.' Paris continues favouring short peplurn and cut-away basque effects, which are smart for both coats and blouses. Waistlines are often slightly lowered, .teH balance the longer skirts. Some are placed just above the hip-bones/others shbw'soine' sub-normal waists, while 'some-go .in for frankly Empire silhouettes... '.-... ; In Paris,, knee's have"'disappeared '- entirely. ''JPho majority of;''dressmakers favour street clothes ten inches from the ground, and afternoon about eight. Sports-skirtS are as-longns eight inches from the floor, but there are, of course, sliding skirt scales. The wise dressmaker follows the eminently sane method of adapting her hems to her client's height—shorter-skirts for little persons than for,big ones.. PARIS MILLINERY. Someone said the other day that the New Year will see the last of our largo, floppy hats.'.'This seems'a.foregone conclusion, but - rnore>; than one modiste hints that the small toque will bo definitely rivalled this . winter by a brim shape which is larger than we have been accustomed to wear during the colder months. Several largij. hats, made' of hatter's plush, Of velvet' and'of felt,', with softly curving brims, are -charming. Many of these wide;briinnied hats have a felt, velvet, or-:hatter's- plush; foundation with ■ encrustations of; satin or gros-grain. covering. a large part of the crown, and a considerable part of* the brim. These new'modelsfare care-; fully worked, and, in accordance, with' the dictates-~oi'. the .new. season are off, the face in front,- with a.-'flaring side.: This does not mean bandeaux, but- the: frame worked back to giv-e - a -bandeau! effect. ~ ; It looks as if the-beret Basque. is ; going to sweep women's fashions. The way to wear them now is well back on the" head, showing as much li'air as possible. ' ' ' ' ' ■ The beret sides are vory1 much pulled1 down, making this hat appear almost large. Shirring is a prominent note for trimming them. They draw them in at the back of, the. peck, thus leaving .the huge fur colllars women usually wear in winter in undisturbed position. FASHION HINTS. The newest and smartest colour where gloves are concerned for evening wear is dark brown and in suede. Embroidery is in again, and it ! is being used extensively for evening and for thi! elaborate ■ afternoon tunicblouse and frock. , : Beads and silk are used to achieve many of the best embroidery designs. Metallic /brocades are fashionable, and make into: heaps of blouses that are,.to be worn with fur-trimmed suits ;of broadcloth, duvetyn, and velvet. • Girls in business should dress in conservative colours, but they needn't cling to dull ones. Almost any of the new dark, warm shades .of. tKestyle col-our-card are appropriate for- the-woman in business. ; The greatest of- Paris dressmakers have an ideefixe that furs should match the coat they are attached to. Coats come to the skirt edge, and are straight or flared. Short fur cokts are important.