Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germalne.

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 68, 21 March 1931, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror Written for "The Post" by Germalne.

PAItliS, 531 st January. The new fashions feature a return to individuality. "Know thyself" is more insistently than ever the beginning of wisdom in dressing, just because the latitude is so wide. Last year we were threatened with long skirts, long corsets, long hair, and long gloves. This year we have many different skirt lengths, adapted to figure and occasion. The menace of sweeping hems in tho street is definitely banished, and the evening skirt, in many instances, stops comfortably short at tho instep, or even at the ankle for more formal occasions; Waistlines arc where we want them —high, low, or in the middle: Empire, just aljove the hip-bone, or normal. The result of this attitude is to relieve our minds of tho apprehension of long, tight, rigid corsets. The actual ones worn in Paris are only slightly different from, those worn befovo the 1700 revolution. Even our' much-discussed hair may be worn as we like it: Short, half-long,

or long. Long gloves have been accepted, for evening by many women, but thero are many others who prefer them well below tho elbow, and not a few who refuse to wear them at all. The influence of Romaticism, therefore, is seen in su«h ways as ifoals with revels, and pocket llaps suggestive of men's fashion of IS3O-4.0; in a. tendency towards the leg-o'-mutton sleeve oC the 1830' a, and in nioro elaborate sleeves with afternoon dress; while in. the evening it is shown in frills and flounces, in off-the-shoulder necklines, and berthas, occasionally in decorative hems suggesting 1830 styles. SPORTS CLOTHES. Some of the new sports clothes are quite thrilling. They arc difficult to describe, for the charm of them is a matter of perfection, every detail taking an .unobtrusive and ineluctable place in a unified whole. The shoulderline has been widened, completely eliminating tho slightly hollow-chested look which it has been the fashion to cultivate for the .past 'few seasons, and the right things have been done with yokes and pockets, and the gores of skirts, the placing of the waistline, the fitting of tho jacket above the waist, etc., etc. . j Heal Scotch woollens and inch-deep checkered cashmeres are coming out for sports wear, and at the same identical moment, the -Paris dressmakers are showing these stuffs properly thinned down for springtime temperatures, madd into sports clothes for tho Riviera. Blouse-jackets are amongst the smartest of wraps for winter sports clothes." Tunic jackets of leather or < fur, or super-warm woollens, peplum.

blouses, in gay plaids and checks, arc making a stylo success. Box-pleated skirts, gored skirts, and skirts with comfortable fullness let in below tho hip-lino are made in suede-liko woollens, in new tweeds, and in winter cheviots. SPORTS HATS FOR THE RIVIERA AND ELSEWHERE. Sports hats are pliablo caps and toques fashioned by clever knitting needles, or made of chenille; or they are very wide-brimmed and mado of jersey or felt. Large or small, they are supple, and may bo rolled up and packed into a valise without danger, for they do not wrinkle or deform readily. Berets aro so classic, they need uo comment, but they are, as always, smart. Parisiennes have them folded to look square on top. The new jersey sports hats with accompanying triangular scarves to match, bordered with horsehair lace, and the new blue and whito checked cloth sports hats, are Paris novelties that are successful for Southern wear. The " tricorn'e," in felt or in velvet, has once more made its bow to the public. And there is the new "page" cap, a mere nothing, perched on the back of the head, showing nearly all tho hair, in knitted materials or in "chenille." This last is having a great vogue, especially with tho women who have pretty, wellkept coiffures,-which they like to show oft' as much as possible.The colours for millinery are really exciting, and they are applied in contrasts that mark the creators as artists. Dark reds are important, so is very dark brown and other off-black shades. There is a beautiful new blue, and some unusual dark greens. OUR STOCKINGS PUZZLE US. The colour to choose for our stockings this season is puzzling, a stocking colour-mystery, as a matter of fact. Although they are well posted on most of tho new fashions, Parisiennes still seem to bo waiting for,a lead in regard to the exqet shades of stockings to be worn this'season. A season or two ago there was a craze for sun-tan shades, but with tho entry of the ;iastcls those tones areimpossible. Most women seem to have made up their minds, in favour of two or three rather pretty dark tones of beige and some shades of smoky-grey. However, women as a rule prefer to chooso their stockings to match the colour of their skin, and in the same shade as the powder, they use, or a shade, darker. For evening, hose dyed the exact colour of the frock and. the shoes has been suggested, but this will be such an expensive fashion that it is hardly likely to be popular. WHERE PARIS MAKES NO ATTEMPT. ' A good contrast rule is to combine a bright and a soft colour, or a bright shado with black or white. Two pastels aren't so good for tho rank and file of women. They're pretty and not exciting enough for this jazzy life of ours. .Such a combination of bright purple and turquoiso-bluc, on the other hand, is apt to draw out the character of tho wearer. Paris makes no attempt to match the evening wrap to the frock with which it is worn. As a matter of fact, tho wildest of contrasts aro seen. This .doesn't mean that coats which match tho evening frock aren't smart. They aro. It means simply that you don't havu to bother about matching if you don't want to do so. 'It is, however, dangerous to mix .colours of evening wrap and dress indiscriminately. Such nii.st.imrs will only bo smart when a

colour expert does them/ and ■ even then they are ' apt' to tiecqm'o : conapioubus. There's a new evening". head-dress made of.gold lame twisted like a halo around the head, which would suit you girls to perfection. , Andif.you •want to be extra smart, there are some new gold brocade evening sandals worn with flesh-coloured stockings that show off a pretty foot to perfection. The squarish fan is in fashion; one seen made of pink velvet was awfully pretty.