London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CX, Issue 130, 29 November 1930, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written tor "The Post."

LONDON, 3rd October. Tlie return of the .King and Queen to London brings the last straggler's back from holiday haunts, and the ■'•little season "is fairly launched. Many popular restaurants have reopened with gala evenings, and even the exclusive .Claridges lias succumbed to tlic cabaret as ;ui attraction for its distinguished patrons. ! ■ The oversells guests assembled for the Imperial ConforeiH-o are adding! greatly to the gaiety of London, for |

every day: sonio interesting function'is planned;for their honour. *The Government, reception at Lancaster House to meet the Prime Minister was a-brilliant affair. To-night -the King and Queen are entertaining with a banquet at- Buckingham Palace, when the attendance of the Prince of Wales and Princess Mary will add glamour to the occasion. No wonder the dressmakers arc wreathed with smiles, for these smart functions/mean new frocks—last year s evening gowns can only do duty on very minor occasions or for home dinners. This ■ probably accounts for the number of evening frocks in every collection I have seen —immediately one starts to discuss new- clothes I find -it is.the evening;frocks that are causing most, comment. First' comes- the insistence that black is,more chic'than ever: black velvet, black, lace, black faille, black tulle. Chiffon and sequins are all used to fashion; the loveliest evening gowns ■we have had for years. ■ These are long and elegant, and practical, 'for 'they usually reach to■ ■ the ankle. ■The-even hem lines'make for a neatness - which has been absent during

the last few transition seasons,, while dressmakers have been'groping their way from the short, slick frocks to the feminine modes. : . ■. . , It is extraordinary how quickly, one s eye gets .accustomed '.to any. new,fash- :- ion • and' at ■Norman Harwell's , quite English dress show some of- the. gowns so luxuriously feminine, would- have boeu voted impractical a year ago, but these same gowns are now being bought and worn by the sniiirt. clientele this brilliant young designer has Slathered round him. One lovely black velvet evening gown-had the long slim-looking skirt coniposed entirely of small . velvet flounces —quite a dozen.: of; them.-lhC neck cut square .with narrow-shoulder straps, and just- a" beautiful'diamond clip fastened at" one corner.'-' •With this was"worn a brief"velvet coat that barely reached the ivaist^ lined witlu softest sheared-white-rabbit —quite the cosiest garment .imaginable vi'lien one wanted to;loo.k: really elegant on a. very'cold "night.' . " ■ The dress I have'sketched was''another striking .black arid :white effect. The . tiny frill .at .the .waist' and , the deep basque edged.with white fur" being perfectly balanced by r the ankle length' skirt ■ that was-', very';full/round the.hem.- . _. .' . The coat- of mail all-sequin , gosvn is another revival, and there were, several in this smart 'collection. One in';' all black had a three-tiered skirt and a tiny, square-cut .bodice. This, was .worn with long black gloves' that;had '.pieces of -white, kid' inset round, the tops. A cluster "of" "white gardenias was fastened at oue: corner of the 'decolletage, and the whole was topped by one of the iiewest evening ■fads—a small,beret ot sequins—Svorn well, back on the head, exposing much exquisitely • waved; hair. These . berets are. the last .word in chic. One, emerald green' sequin gown had one'-to match. This was aptly named ".Adam's rail." .A silver.grey sequin' gown, had a,,cap to match. Black 'or silver caps were' also! put wi'/*'velvet and. satin gowns, but they must be jvqru,at. the.right angle, well at the back, and pulled to one side. Almost every.gown has its coat cape or coatee.' At tliisshow there was the very short matelot coat, which is the newest version'of' the bolero,: and cut ou the lines of a midshipman's jacket. A long slim dress of white'tulle had .one of these brief ■close-fitting coatees that just'reached the waist line,;., with tight sleeves in. a .deep sapphire, .blue velvet. '•••-.■' • . i ■ i Another called "Bosy.Kapture". was of pink, chiffon with petals of pink-.vel-vet scattered.all.over the surface,-;and a tiny coatee —also with long tight sleeves of pink velvet to match. ' The waistline, goes higher,andhigher, particularly for.evening, and many;experts predict a real directoire line by next spring. Certainly, many .of the new. models have, more than a suggestion: of both the Empire, and directoire period. Gloves,, mittens, or mitten sleeves seem an indispensable part of the'new evening mode. ' ..' •■■•:• If one chooses gloves oue must be prep'ared'to pay the piper-for. these'; very long gloves' are costly, both :the initial outlay and .the'upkeep. A; charming gown of black tulle with touches' of pink- had long- pale..' pink gloves ■veil above the .elbow. . Another gown, of delicate pink-lace had gloves .of palest blue-, suede to match a string of large turquoise beads twisted round, the. throat. Long lace mittens, made of the same lace as the gown and reaching above the elbow, are charming; while> the long mitten sleeves of' black velvet give an innocent-looking gown'a .touch of Jo Diable. Still another device -to < evade gloves is .the half-sleeve that commences a tight band above the elbow' and ' then floats out into a -bell-like flounce-' to -the wrist. . The designers have-amusingly cut all the gowns sleeveless and '■ backless,; and then insisted one must Virear a coatee or capelet .or gloves! • ' • . 1 . ' EUTH,SIBLEY.