London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 75, 29 March 1930, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

(Specially Written for "The Post.")

-. LONDON,; 7th February. It is useless1, to try and disguise the fact that February is London's worst month, and those who can seek a more salubrious spot may be forgiven their desertion, for all. the cold of our winter seems to be pressed into the"' four drearl weeks of February.

. Stocktaking is. .another: horrid happoniug in. this, month, and, shops depleted by their exhaustive sales will only venture oil a minimum of new clothes' until after this is accomplitjlil''/ while the, virgin, purity, of; the ■■ wliitu sale windows ■makes' one shiver when the wind is in the. east. ' ,

i However, the new' materials which herald our approaching spring are attractive enough to make us long to discard our winter coats, and sally forth, iv tweed ' ensembles and , lightweight woollen frocks. ' '"'.' . >

British fabrics have always had a high reputation , for quality arid finish, but now they have followed, the policy of their Continental competitors and enlisted the help arid'confidence of." the big dressmakers,1 so that- "style" as decreed/by the.most:exclusive designers is incorporated with, the exquisite texture, finish; -and design of . the new fabrics. ' .■'"'''' ' - "•'. '.■..- ''

The Empiro Crusade which I trust has interested you in New Zealand as much as ourselves .is not a political shibboleth. It is a very vital factor in the future prosperity of the British people all over the Empire. ' Therefore, I make no apology for stressing the value and beauty of British goods, and if I can persuade you to ask for British manufacture whenever you are pur-

chasing textile fabrics I have perfect confidence in your obtaining the most beautiful materials the world can offer.

Incidentally, the, Bradford manufacturers have sold to Paris this season thousands of yards of every sort of suiting, tweed, and woollen material for tho new spring models, while Lancashire is "turning out a fabric called M'arliatine that -resembles printed crepe do chine in exquisite'designs and colourings, and at a very popular price. Nottingham laces are world famous

and every year their beauty increases, for tho modern manufacturer realises that materials that are "style right" create a much greater feminine thrill and desire to. buy than those of mere attraction.

Indeed, the enormous influence of fashion has so completely revolutionised tho textile industries of tho world that, the manufacturers now go to the dress.'designers first, instead of, as in the past,, the designers using what tho manufacturers provided for them. ; This explains the amazing unity between the mode and the now fabrics, for, as we all know, the mode evolves

from day to day, wkbreas fabrics take practically two years" to mature. The moment elaboration is apparont in. fashion, complicated weaves, decoration, and colour schemes aro presented by the fabric makers. . This season, tho . similarity between woollen and silken materials is simply amazing. Not only do they appear in the same designs ■and colourings, but they frankly imitate one another in weave, appcara'nee, and character, so that a woollen material will suggest a silken'one,-and, vice versa. : In tho new silks, .''plain, fabrics are given a great importance, revealing new possibilities. ~ . " . These aro warm and deep to the eye and1 smooth to touch.' 'Phe heavyettat' crepes and dull satins are the heaviest and most supple shown for many^ years. No longer transparent, the'new chiffons and georgette types of fabrics havo been tripled in weight, so that they are just right' for afternoon' blouses. Silk voile has all the appearanco of a light-weight woollen, especially when used for entire dressmaker suits, while the "suiting" quality of the thick niaroeain crepes makes them just right for ' the'new soft tailor-mades. • Faille silk must be supple, but muffler and cravat silks are quite the newest, fabrics that have appeared. .''■.- '■.." Those silks can be obtained in mixed ;\veaves solf-patterried or printed 'designs, and arc only at the beginning of a long fashion career. '■ Plain woollens have, taken on a flat crepe surface that suggests a silk crepe so nearly that one has to touch it to be convinced.- . "'■"..- : ' Heavy ;but transparent woollens are another fabric marvel.' Roughness is combined w-ith an even surface, while transparence is achieved in spite of a close tight weave. These are excellent for ; morning '. and out-of-door wear, in one-piece dresses or ensembles of skirt and a-shorter unlined coat. The reversible' woollen is a charming novelty which adds variety to a costume. Thus a flecked tweed with one side taking up the darker tone was used to fashion a charming ensemble I saw recently. .';'.- ': ■ . ' ' ' The coat was threequarter length and was bordea'od all round with a deep band of the,dark reverse side and also deep cuffs. The skirt was of the darker side and the jumper top of spotted* crepe de chine was- banded up to the waist: with the same dark side of the tweed. ~ Spots are quitei the smartest wear amongst the early models. Dressmaker suits favour these patterns, in both woollen and silken materials. Navy or black,ground with tiny white spots are exceedingly, smart, and there are many other combinations of • colours to' suit all .tastes. - ;■ , - ■.'■ ,-■ There is an almost ,1914 , air about many of the newest models—largely suggested by the higher waist, longer skirt, and; the popularity 'for lingerie blouses,or collars. '• .;■"■: .'.>...••"->,' _ The suit I have sketched this week is a charming example of this revived mode, and was chosen in Paris by'a spring bride. . ■! .-■ . :■'■■■. V "-' : RUTH SIBLEY. .