Paris In The Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 75, 29 March 1930, Page 19

Paris In The Mirror

(Written for ," The Post" by

"Gcrmainc.")

PARIS, 29 th January,

: In an effort to present her new collection in an original manner, a wellknown couturiere from: the Champs Elysces- was inspired to give. -a-, cocktail party in her beautiful house the other afternoon. From beginning to end, from the moment the first sports suits appeared to tho moment when an outburst of clapping, greeted the final evening gown, it .was-,evident that the new models were a success Longer afternoon frocks, touching tho ankles ■at least at the back and the front,aiid sometimes all round, roused a good deal rof interest. Most of tho gowns of this,type, in fact, were long, and even with the ensembles usually reached to "well below the knees. With some1 of the longer gowns; shorter coats were worn, while cuffs were. occasionally trimmed with bands of summer fur, half twisted round them or placed some'inches "above the hem.

1 Coats .did not "necessarily follow the lead of the frock on the hemline; for example, the wide flouuee- of one satin frock dipped exaggeratedly at one side beneath the coat, and there'wore other .instances: • . ;-

• Long tunics are favouiitcs with some of tho Paris couturieres, and beneath these- are seen pleated skirts, and those in which the fullness is achieved by restrained flares.

As an instance of how amusingly this new hemline is' treated, a gown seen had va low pleated skirt beneath a long tunic which was cut .away at the

hem in an inverted "V" in front. The skirt below it was given this effect twice, so that it achieved the outlino ■ of an "M," - whij.o tho back was straight. , A DIFFERENCE OF OPINION. ..When it comes to the normal waistlino there is a considerable difference ' of opinion. At one dressmaker's, (whose word is law in this city), whtrp tho waist is definitely normal aid i close-fitting, they say - that their clients are making no difficulty about accepting it so. Of course, this waistlino is only attractive on tho slender woman, and more especially on the tall and slendpr woman. The heavy ones chooso Princess models where it is possible to cheat over tho waistline, or models with little jackets that _. disguise tho figure everywhere but in front.' Of course, tho slender waist means the return of the long, boned corset. Many wyi only adopt this as a last resort. Rigidity of outline will certainly destroy the supple effect of our models, but .what is to be done? The compression must conic somewherel But why shouldn't women raise their waistline? That is, if they want to. They have aorio it before, and "what on earth docs it matter what the heavy ones do? With the bell af, tho hips, they had too much flesh somewhere. With it at tho normal place, they have too much somewhere else-. And that's all there is to HI Slightly brutal, but true. Anyhow, if women are too heavy for the now mode it is up to them to do something about it; that the physical disadvantages'of certain women havenever been allowed to hamper the development of tho mode as a whole is a fact. And that women, possess an uncanny knack of making themselves > look like any current ideal is another fact. So that it seems certain that they will perform this seeming miracle- once more. LINGERIE FROM PARIS. All the great couturicres, design tho lingerie to be worn under llicir dresses, though frenchwomen often prefer thciu, own, lingere, who has made everything for their family from' generation to generation. Tho new chemise-dc-nuifc and chemises naturally follow tho trend of the mode. Their waistlines rise in imitation of tho frock, and the renewed femininity -is .expressed in a profusion of fine lace. The new linen, 'handkerchief linen, ia so sheer and soft that it can be passed through your wedding ring quite, easily. It makes up into delightful little lingerie etceteras, embroidered with little birds and encrusted with laco flowers. Touches of colour arc sometimes added by delicate sprays of rococo roses. Lace-trimmed. pyjamas, little embroidered mules, and sumptuous negligraceful evening frocks arc to sweep the floors-with: a. marvellous feminine effect." Whoever heard the like? The broom andvthe vacuum cleaner are much inoro effective and wholesome

gees prove that our garconno aberration'has not killed the desire to charm in all feminine hearts. •. . FASHION HINTS. , . Ancient Assyrian, Chinese, and lCgypitiSh designs are used, as an inspiration for many.of the modernist printed fabrics in. silk ,and jersey..-. . Modern jewel • draftsmen are ■ going back to ancient, times .for striking -designs', for 'cutting and .setting precious stones, particularly, in the large singlestone rings, so. much worn, and in the flat gold coin and bead necklaces that arc in vogue.; . . ■ ' ■ ■ / Waist-belts .are .haying a. renewed vogue this season/ and modern manufacturers arc'adapting ancient Egyptian'1 and Romau. desires to modernist treatment r : ..." , • ' , ' Vivid red. lips'.match scarlet shoes, and shoes 'are. the exact tint of handbags and -hats; when this occurs the dress,,is, happily, usually, of a less dazzling colour. •. Pastel colourings • arc : all . the vogue. Rosd-dcw' is a pastel we' have imagined only: in dreams. ■' Opaque-green is an afternoon pastel. a rich pansy,'; is: another favourite pastel colour. The modern ,blue, a sort of purple and blue combined, is the most intense blue in the world. V ... Beauty:spots greatly-resemble prettywomen. ~ They- •become; spoiled by too much attention, and'sometimes they spoil themselves by the efforts they niake to attract' attention. : A ruthless and not unpleasant task lies ..before .you -this,' mouth, that oi; overhauling your wardrobe and throwing'away1 the failures and' successes Of the last'year. . * ■ ; The-old must'give'place: to the. new, and-itfs no use being:sentimental about clothes, even although :' we. may. be about, friends and, possessions. Lot us bo .out :With t the, old : then before we call begin to bo on.,with tho new.