FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 96, 27 April 1929, Page 18

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

(Specially Written for "Tlio Post,") LONDON, Sth March. Fortunately for tho dressmakers, tho lirst spring days magically synchronised with the opening of tho London dress parades. How wo havo revelled in tho sunshine, and how shabby wo havo fell, after our long winter as each Lieaul.iful model iloated by! Tho luro of clothes seems to increase each season. Whether l-hu designers give elaborate dress "parties" or merely dress shows, they are always sure of a crowd of keenly-interested women, for clothes buying has become an art, and nothing is left to chance these days. It is difficult to. say which collection is the best, especially when one sometimes, sees two complete shows in one day; but I started tho week in tho oxelus'ivo regions of Berkeley square— Madame PauJotte's lovely horno —and 1 have yet to find anything more exquisite than the models sho had to offer, although each designer launches individual touches of their own. Ingenious detail is a marked feature, in the new frocks, and hero one always (inds unusual -touches at the neck, the waist, tho wrists, or-'perhaps an odd ar-i-angcment of colours or buttons. Tho great question of skirt length seems to bo fixed. ' The sports clothes cover th,c knees, but remain short and even. There is decided fullness, but so cleverly achieved that we look as slim as ever. One arrangement of pleats I particularly liked was three rather wide Hat pleats on the loft side of the front, repeated on the, right side of the back and stitched well below the hips, so that in repose the skirt was practically straight. A •one-piece, dress of beige kasha had a downward tuck 1J inches wide on the bodice and an upward tuck on the hips, separated by. a belt to match about tho same, width. This was distinctly at-, tractive and becoming. ■ Many of f.he tailored suits showed t'io

belted skirt with soft little silk blouse tucked inside, and, of course, short coats. One in navy had a blouse of red and white, printed silk with coat lining to match, and tiny red pull-on hat, very fine navy stockings, and one-bar navy snakeskin shoes.

The combination of natural colours is a decided feature.. At tho moment it is shown chiefly in .the sports clothes, but is likely to be carried on to the afternoon ensembles as. tho days get warmer.

One white flannel dress with greylizard belt had a coat of grey and white tweed, grey hat and grey stockings with white buckskin ' shoes v. strapped with lizard to match the belt.

Beige crepe made another neutral and tinted model, with panels of ivory let in the skirt and deep collar and cuffs of ivory to match. This was girdled with a white, buckskin, belt that had. a dull gold buckle and a three-quarter coat of beige tweed lined with white crepe completed this ensemble.

The tailored suit and the tweed ensemble are running about even in the race for popularity. Certainly some of the new suits are the last word in chic—P had almost written "cute"—for that'certainly describes one little suit of navy moire which had an irresistible • "gamin" air. The skirt had pleats at both sides stitched almost to' the knees—which it just covered —and a short coat that had a decided suggestion of fit at the back. A soft china silk shirt was tucked into the waist, which was swathed with a square of cravat silk in red, blue, and grey, folded like .a handkerchief, two points going down 1 tho hips on one side and tied in a, knot on the other. A scarf to match was put twico round tho nock stock fashion, and tied in a bow. With- hands Hhrust into pockets and hat pulled down to a rakish angle over one eyo, she looked the cheekiest little nymph imaginable.

I must write more , about these scarves, but en passant let me men-

lion that II! you havo n mpuiro of miuiycolourml Milieu, tio it round your hips gipsy fashion—for that aoems to bo the mode ol! tho moment. Thorn) who prophesied that we had exhausted tho voguo for printed materials worn very much off tho track. Thero aru quilo as many showing for "ilny wear, and'even moru for tho ovening. I'mtU'd km I ins and crepes by day, and U/l'ota, moire, and chiffons by 'night. Tho small designs are the most popular, and yellow and black aijd beigfc and black in v small .llornl pat,torn .seem to bo just sis much shown as last your. The ensemble 1 have drawn had a black collarlcss coat that was scolloped all .round tho edgo and lined with a black salin thai, hail an all-over design of yellow buttercups. Tho frock of yellow crepo has a, small rliiisy design in black outline and insertions of black crepo to give design to'tho skirt, the scollops, which ar« very new, being repealed at tho hem oi' tho pleated llounce. Tho touch of white at tho neck, which seems inevitable on the vast majority of the new frocks, was of white georgette crepo with pieot edges. | ' Tim bug cirried with tho ensemble was made of satin to mutch tho coatlining, and lined with the crepe of the dress—this is still another new note — the bag of tho two materials of the ensemble.

RUTH SIBLEY.